How would you go about repairing this plasterboard?
Discussion
Keen to avoid getting a tradesperson in for cost and hassle
How would you go about this, in terms of equipment and method?
It feels like part of the the reason the radiator came away from the wall was the screws used don't look appropriate for plasterboard?
OR is this all a bit trickier and if I have to ask....I'm better getting a pro in?
How would you go about this, in terms of equipment and method?
It feels like part of the the reason the radiator came away from the wall was the screws used don't look appropriate for plasterboard?
OR is this all a bit trickier and if I have to ask....I'm better getting a pro in?
Plasterboard isn't adequate for the weight of radiator full of water. many years ago I fitted one similar as follows:-
There is a bedroom on the other side of the wall, so I discussed the possibilities with the customer. There were free-standing wardrobes in the bedroom against the wall in question, so it was a simple job of drilling right through the wall from bathroom to bedroom and using nuts, bolts and penny washers with the nuts and penny washer hidden by the wardrobes. The other options are to find the wood of the studwork behind the plasterboard and screw into that, which only works if the wood is at a suitable position. Failing that, remove radiator, remove some plasterboard, fit more wood (in best position) securing it to existing wood, reinstate plasterboard and skim and then fir rad. Stud walls are a pain and only there for the benefit of the house-builder.
There is a bedroom on the other side of the wall, so I discussed the possibilities with the customer. There were free-standing wardrobes in the bedroom against the wall in question, so it was a simple job of drilling right through the wall from bathroom to bedroom and using nuts, bolts and penny washers with the nuts and penny washer hidden by the wardrobes. The other options are to find the wood of the studwork behind the plasterboard and screw into that, which only works if the wood is at a suitable position. Failing that, remove radiator, remove some plasterboard, fit more wood (in best position) securing it to existing wood, reinstate plasterboard and skim and then fir rad. Stud walls are a pain and only there for the benefit of the house-builder.
RedFish said:
Blood hell, I didn't even think about that
Would still like to repair fill the plaster and I'm not too sure on kit to use or how.
Also original screws don't look up to the job so replace those?
You need to find out where anything with any meat (ie vertical studs or blockwork behind a board on dot and dab) is behind the plaster and fix into that. If thats a wet system radiator, or electric oil filled, it will weigh too much to be held up by plasterboard fixings alone. Although if you have kids ask them if they have been swinging on it or dragging towels roughly.Would still like to repair fill the plaster and I'm not too sure on kit to use or how.
Also original screws don't look up to the job so replace those?
As others have suggested the wall almost certainly isn't strong enough.
I'd be tempted to removes the rad, fix a sheet of good quality 9mm plywood (or equivalent MDF) to the wall about the size of the rad. Use multiple fixings and/or adhesive to ensure any load is spread. Make good and paint, then refix the rad.
I'd be tempted to removes the rad, fix a sheet of good quality 9mm plywood (or equivalent MDF) to the wall about the size of the rad. Use multiple fixings and/or adhesive to ensure any load is spread. Make good and paint, then refix the rad.
Plasterboard is a lot stronger than many people think, if treated right.
However, once it's all smunched up, it's all over.
An actual proper job might be to cut out a section of plasterboard, install a 'noggin' AKA a bit of 2x4 between the uprights, then patch the plasterboard and make good with plaster. It's really not hard, if you can get an offcut of plasterboard the right thickness.
An artful bodger might even re-use the rectangle of PB they've cut out.
A 'good enough' repair might be to make big enough holes where the plasterboard is damaged, to insert some 2x1 behind the board to spread the load
However, once it's all smunched up, it's all over.
An actual proper job might be to cut out a section of plasterboard, install a 'noggin' AKA a bit of 2x4 between the uprights, then patch the plasterboard and make good with plaster. It's really not hard, if you can get an offcut of plasterboard the right thickness.
An artful bodger might even re-use the rectangle of PB they've cut out.
A 'good enough' repair might be to make big enough holes where the plasterboard is damaged, to insert some 2x1 behind the board to spread the load
there are fixings that are designed for plasterboard and will (apparently) take significant weight.
I've never used them but one example is https://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/
As someone said, if you can re-locate the fixings a bar or two down I'd investigate fixings similar to the above. Whilr sratvhing I did find this comparison video:https://youtu.be/nfGG1Z5m-5A?feature=shared
As for the damage, just buy some readymix filler and a filling knife. swipe some in, leave to dry and then rub down and a litle bit of paint.
I've never used them but one example is https://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/
As someone said, if you can re-locate the fixings a bar or two down I'd investigate fixings similar to the above. Whilr sratvhing I did find this comparison video:https://youtu.be/nfGG1Z5m-5A?feature=shared
As for the damage, just buy some readymix filler and a filling knife. swipe some in, leave to dry and then rub down and a litle bit of paint.
Crafty_ said:
there are fixings that are designed for plasterboard and will (apparently) take significant weight.
I've never used them but one example is https://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/
As someone said, if you can re-locate the fixings a bar or two down I'd investigate fixings similar to the above. Whilr sratvhing I did find this comparison video:https://youtu.be/nfGG1Z5m-5A?feature=shared
As for the damage, just buy some readymix filler and a filling knife. swipe some in, leave to dry and then rub down and a litle bit of paint.
I’ve used those a few times , they do work well but drill the hole slowly and carefully , if you bust straight through the board it weakens the rear and that’s what the fixings rely on . I've never used them but one example is https://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/
As someone said, if you can re-locate the fixings a bar or two down I'd investigate fixings similar to the above. Whilr sratvhing I did find this comparison video:https://youtu.be/nfGG1Z5m-5A?feature=shared
As for the damage, just buy some readymix filler and a filling knife. swipe some in, leave to dry and then rub down and a litle bit of paint.
I don't think you're going to be able to use toggle fixings because of the stand-off brackets design and position.
I'd probably lower the bracket one rung, re drill a hole and then feed a 30mm or 40mm washer and nut through the old hole and down with either a finger or taped to a spanner (secured with a piece of string so you don't lose it) so I could use a long bolt through the bracket and into the nut. Then fill the old hole.
I'd probably lower the bracket one rung, re drill a hole and then feed a 30mm or 40mm washer and nut through the old hole and down with either a finger or taped to a spanner (secured with a piece of string so you don't lose it) so I could use a long bolt through the bracket and into the nut. Then fill the old hole.
OutInTheShed said:
An actual proper job might be to cut out a section of plasterboard, install a 'noggin' AKA a bit of 2x4 between the uprights, then patch the plasterboard and make good with plaster. It's really not hard, if you can get an offcut of plasterboard the right thickness.
An artful bodger might even re-use the rectangle of PB they've cut out.
A 'good enough' repair might be to make big enough holes where the plasterboard is damaged, to insert some 2x1 behind the board to spread the load
You’re often better off reusing the piece than cutting a new one. It will be the right shape and all you have to deal with is the kerf (instead of having to fill/skim over the entire new piece of board). An artful bodger might even re-use the rectangle of PB they've cut out.
A 'good enough' repair might be to make big enough holes where the plasterboard is damaged, to insert some 2x1 behind the board to spread the load
When you cut it out, make the cuts with a padsaw held at an angle (so the board is wider on the working side of the wall). It won’t fall back into the hole and makes it easy to refit it to the noggin you install behind. Make good with 2-pack wood filler (overpack and then sand back) and you’d never know it had been cut out.
You can also repair in the same way without a full noggin by using a short piece of 2x1 that just spans the piece you’ve removed and a couple of cm beyond: screw into it either side of the hole (using a screw as a handle to hold it in place while you fix it) then fix the piece of board you removed to that.
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