Draught

Author
Discussion

TwinKam

Original Poster:

3,162 posts

102 months

Wednesday 30th October
quotequote all
1930's house, suspended timber planked floor, air-bricks from sub-floor space to outside.
Fitted L-shaped kitchen (two outside walls), base units, integrated appliances, plinths, laminate planks to the floor... but they do not go all the way to the walls under the base cupboards.
With the wind in a certain direction, the result is a 'howling gale' coming through around eg the washing machine & dishwasher... presumably through the airbricks and up through the gaps in the uncovered floorboards.
So what's the best medium to cover the bare floorboards to block off the gaps? ...bearing in mind the many legs etc in the way. Carpet? Underlay? Some sort of hi-tech membrane? Or squirt expanding foam into every gap?

Edited by TwinKam on Wednesday 30th October 14:59

scot_aln

473 posts

206 months

Wednesday 30th October
quotequote all
Do you not just want these -

https://tradefixdirect.com/p/timloc-external-cowl-...


Had similar on previous home where we removed some greenery that had clearly been shielding the wind. Wasn't so much the draft that bothered us but the annoying whistle that created.

TwinKam

Original Poster:

3,162 posts

102 months

Wednesday 30th October
quotequote all
Thank you, would never have thought of those... but presumably I'd need them on all the air bricks and they're not exactly pretty!

scot_aln

473 posts

206 months

Wednesday 30th October
quotequote all
Depends where the bricks are and those that might be causing the effect. Hadn't considered the cosmetic aspect but we only needed 2 or was it 3. Not many to solve ours. You may get some better or prettier solutions but these stopped a whistling for us that was driving me crazy.

DonkeyApple

58,891 posts

176 months

Wednesday 30th October
quotequote all
Cowells might inhibit the worst of the draught but ideally you just want to stop the draught into the room from the void space altogether. How wide is the gap from the wall to the laminate?

TwinKam

Original Poster:

3,162 posts

102 months

Wednesday 30th October
quotequote all
DonkeyApple said:
Cowells might inhibit the worst of the draught but ideally you just want to stop the draught into the room from the void space altogether. How wide is the gap from the wall to the laminate?
Most of the depth of the units... 500mm or so.

DonkeyApple

58,891 posts

176 months

Wednesday 30th October
quotequote all
Sounds as if you have two elements to consider, stopping the worst of the draught and also whether you want to try and cover the bare boards to stop what's probably quite significant heat loss to the room?

For just the former as well as cowls on the air bricks you might contemplate whether putting something around the appliances to create a seal might do enough? For example, you can buy foam strips designed to be inserted between skirting boards and floorboards which then expand to fill the gap and halt draughts. If you have gaps between the appliance and the units these could be closed off with these foam strips set back in the gap etc.

Trying to cover the bare floor under the kitchen units is going to be a bit of a task. The first thought would be if the unit feet are the type where the foot has a thread then at least you can reach to the rear ones and wind them off the ground so that something could be slid in to cover the floor and then have the feet screwed back down in place? For example, strips of vinyl, vinyl squares or some edpm?

TwinKam

Original Poster:

3,162 posts

102 months

Wednesday 30th October
quotequote all
(Your last para) ...this is what I envisaged doing, yes, but was unsure of what material to use. It would have to be done in sections, very difficult to do in one strip.
Tempted to loose lay some heavy rubber-type
underlay, just to see what difference it makes... or maybe vinyl/carpet tiles, stuck down with contact adhesive

DonkeyApple

58,891 posts

176 months

Wednesday 30th October
quotequote all
TwinKam said:
(Your last para) ...this is what I envisaged doing, yes, but was unsure of what material to use. It would have to be done in sections, very difficult to do in one strip.
Tempted to loose lay some heavy rubber-type
underlay, just to see what difference it makes... or maybe vinyl/carpet tiles, stuck down with contact adhesive
Yup. Not a simple task.

I wonder if the simplest 'bodge' might be 1.5mm edpm rubber? It has the weight to stay put and the flexibility to cut pieces, roll them and get them in place to roll back out. You may not need to glue it down as it's pretty heavy.

ade73

444 posts

116 months

Wednesday 30th October
quotequote all
Loft insulation. thumbup

B'stard Child

29,233 posts

253 months

Wednesday 30th October
quotequote all
ade73 said:
Loft insulation. thumbup
Came here to post the same thing - that's exactly what I used to stop the drafts under the kitchen units (before I put 75mm Kingspan under the floor between the joists to try and improve the heat retention and stop the drafts for good).

The loft insulation has all been removed now but it did a pretty good job for a few years

ssray

1,142 posts

232 months

Thursday 31st October
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Can you get under the floor? If you can, a membrane and insulation is the way to go

TwinKam

Original Poster:

3,162 posts

102 months

Thursday 31st October
quotequote all
We have two cats... and have had to extract lucky mice (that escaped their death-games) from behind the plinths before. I am not minded to upgrade the refugee camp by providing them with 15 TOG duvets, so it will be either rubber or vinyl sheeting going down.
Thanks to all for your suggestions.

B'stard Child

29,233 posts

253 months

Thursday 31st October
quotequote all
TwinKam said:
We have two cats... and have had to extract lucky mice (that escaped their death-games) from behind the plinths before. I am not minded to upgrade the refugee camp by providing them with 15 TOG duvets,
That is totally understandable (said as a habitual cat owner currently "On a Break")