Repairing the edge of an end panel on kitchen units.
Discussion
Son bought a wren kitchen 2 years ago and had his own fitters do the job. Nothing wrong with the fitting, but the consequences are if something goes wrong with the materials they don’t cover labour costs.
An end panel on a run of top wall units is adjacent to a window, nothing hot or steamy, but the edge has already peeled away. Wren has sent a new panel no problem but won’t cover the labour needed to dismantle the wall units and replace the panel.
Before he starts looking for a suitable person, has anybody had any experience of repairing the edge trim? I’ve tried gorilla glue but it didn’t stick, the curl in the trim is too strong and pulls it apart soon as you stop pressing.
Considering replacing the whole trim with a suitably coloured trim, or a paint?
Any suggestions welcome thanks.
An end panel on a run of top wall units is adjacent to a window, nothing hot or steamy, but the edge has already peeled away. Wren has sent a new panel no problem but won’t cover the labour needed to dismantle the wall units and replace the panel.
Before he starts looking for a suitable person, has anybody had any experience of repairing the edge trim? I’ve tried gorilla glue but it didn’t stick, the curl in the trim is too strong and pulls it apart soon as you stop pressing.
Considering replacing the whole trim with a suitably coloured trim, or a paint?
Any suggestions welcome thanks.
You shouldn’t need to dismantle the wall unit to refit a WEP, there will be 4,5 or 6 screws screwed through the end carcass into the rear of the panel, you’ll find the ones at the back if fitted but front ones are usually behind the hinge plate.
Remove those, unscrew, refit new panel but use clamps to hold it in situ before refitting. Don’t try making good the WEP that is on now, it has had it, replace with new.
If new WEP needs cutting, flip it over and cut from the underside always with your face edge at the front where you’re starting the cut from, then you won’t blow the good side, if it needs cutting ,( I can’t remember if Wren oversize theirs) cut the top and rear edges obviously, with a circular or track saw not hand saw.
Remove those, unscrew, refit new panel but use clamps to hold it in situ before refitting. Don’t try making good the WEP that is on now, it has had it, replace with new.
If new WEP needs cutting, flip it over and cut from the underside always with your face edge at the front where you’re starting the cut from, then you won’t blow the good side, if it needs cutting ,( I can’t remember if Wren oversize theirs) cut the top and rear edges obviously, with a circular or track saw not hand saw.
Edited by Promised Land on Wednesday 30th October 10:21
Promised Land said:
You shouldn’t need to dismantle the wall unit to refit a WEP, there will be 4,5 or 6 screws screwed through the end carcass into the rear of the panel, you’ll find the ones at the back if fitted but front ones are usually behind the hinge plate.
Remove those, unscrew, refit new panel but use clamps to hold it in situ before refitting. Don’t try making good the WEP that is on now, it has had it, replace with new.
If new WEP needs cutting, flip it over and cut from the underside always with your face edge at the front where you’re starting the cut from, then you won’t blow the good side, if it needs cutting ,( I can’t remember if Wren oversize theirs) cut the top and rear edges obviously, with a circular or track saw not hand saw.
Thank you, I’ll see if that will work, not sure if the back screws are accessible as it’s a boiler cupboard and there’s not much room between the boiler and the carcass. Cheers. Remove those, unscrew, refit new panel but use clamps to hold it in situ before refitting. Don’t try making good the WEP that is on now, it has had it, replace with new.
If new WEP needs cutting, flip it over and cut from the underside always with your face edge at the front where you’re starting the cut from, then you won’t blow the good side, if it needs cutting ,( I can’t remember if Wren oversize theirs) cut the top and rear edges obviously, with a circular or track saw not hand saw.
Edited by Promised Land on Wednesday 30th October 10:21
A few houses back, we dealt with a lot of similar peeling trim issues on a kitchen by painting the edges.
The kitchen was probably over 10 years old though, and it was not about pretending it was brand new, just a case of fixing the obvious defects, thinking we might have a new kitchen in a couple of years after other prodjects.
It was still looking OK when we sold the house about 5 years later.
Probably wouldn't pass muster on something you can remember paying more than the price of my car for though!
The kitchen was probably over 10 years old though, and it was not about pretending it was brand new, just a case of fixing the obvious defects, thinking we might have a new kitchen in a couple of years after other prodjects.
It was still looking OK when we sold the house about 5 years later.
Probably wouldn't pass muster on something you can remember paying more than the price of my car for though!
If it’s a boiler housing usually these come away from the walls quite easily as they’re fitted after the boiler.
Pelmet and cornice will be screwed from behind if fitted as well before you can remove the housing.
I’m on my second kitchen in as many weeks at present and both have boilers located elsewhere which is better!
Pelmet and cornice will be screwed from behind if fitted as well before you can remove the housing.
I’m on my second kitchen in as many weeks at present and both have boilers located elsewhere which is better!
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