Height of kitchen appliance sockets

[Rollin]

I'm fitting some back boxes in anticipation of getting electrician to wire new kitchen.
There's some extra sockets going in as appliances are in different places.
I read that 450mm from floor is usual height. Is that the case?

[tux850]

Rollin said:

I'm fitting some back boxes in anticipation of getting electrician to wire new kitchen.
There's some extra sockets going in as appliances are in different places.
I read that 450mm from floor is usual height. Is that the case?

The building regs (as described by Approved Document M and Approved Document P in this instance) require that 'Switches, sockets, stopcocks and controls have their centre line between 450mm and 1200mm above floor level and a minimum of 300mm (measured horizontally) from an inside corner.'. The most common interpretation and application of this does indeed lead to sockets sitting at 450mm (and light switches at 1200mm).

However, all that only applies to new dwellings so would not be applicable in your case - matching existing heights is perfectly acceptable (given that it does not make compliance of the existing building worse). Besides which though, with you speaking of a kitchen are the sockets sitting above a worktop? If so, there is no specific height mandated (the worktop height and depth is already posing an accessibility issue, and in any case would likely still fall within the generic bounds above anyway) but it is good practice to ensure they are at least high enough so as not to cause unnecessary bending of bottom-entry plug flexes, whether that be caused by the worktop surface or any upstands to be fitted.

Edited by tux850 on Tuesday 15th October 22:38

[Rollin]

Thanks for that. I should have may be have been clearer than the sockets are supplying built in fridges, dishwasher and quicker tap.

[tux850]

Rollin said:

Thanks for that. I should have may be have been clearer than the sockets are supplying built in fridges, dishwasher and quicker tap.

Gotcha.

Depending on layout (e.g. cupboard location) I would recommend fitting them besides (rather than behind) large appliances so as to facilitate easier access and also maximise space (for appliance depth). Height wise I'd base the decision either on aesthetics (if visible, to match existing sockets) or, with built-in appliances, practical considerations that might be relevant (e.g. ease of access if located at the back of an adjacent cupboard).

[Ian Geary]

Rollin said:

Thanks for that. I should have may be have been clearer than the sockets are supplying built in fridges, dishwasher and quicker tap.

On a related point, as someone who should be getting a boiling water tap delivered tomorrow, fitting instructions say it should be on its own circuit, and not on a circuit with the fridge/freezer.

Not sure how alarmist this is, as I doubt all their customers have had a dedicated circuit put in (and so is probably just arse covering by the seller) but just thought I'd mention it in case you're in a position to get this done should you wish.



As for the plug height, I had them set at a level that would be sensible to access through the back of the sink cupboard. So above the floor of the unit, but below the bar that runs across the back or the sink unit itself, and not directly behind the p trap. I had double sockets set into the wall under the sink so the dishwasher and washing machine can be unplugged without having to drag them out.


Hth

[Rollin]

Thanks again. Sounds sensible to have all sockets at back of sink cabinet then as it's a short distance to appliances and accessible.
I'm reading conflicting advice about quooker, but will let electrician sort. We have a cellar room below kitchen which makes wiring up easier.

[James6112]

If any are on display, above the worktop, it’s good to consider splash back & tile sizes. Could save a world of pain!

[119]

All ours are in cupboards next to the appliance.

The sparky who did our kitchen insisted that we had switches above the worktop with outlets below until asked him which law was being broken!

[number2]

Ian Geary said:

Rollin said:

Thanks for that. I should have may be have been clearer than the sockets are supplying built in fridges, dishwasher and quicker tap.

On a related point, as someone who should be getting a boiling water tap delivered tomorrow, fitting instructions say it should be on its own circuit, and not on a circuit with the fridge/freezer.

Not sure how alarmist this is, as I doubt all their customers have had a dedicated circuit put in (and so is probably just arse covering by the seller) but just thought I'd mention it in case you're in a position to get this done should you wish.



As for the plug height, I had them set at a level that would be sensible to access through the back of the sink cupboard. So above the floor of the unit, but below the bar that runs across the back or the sink unit itself, and not directly behind the p trap. I had double sockets set into the wall under the sink so the dishwasher and washing machine can be unplugged without having to drag them out.


Hth

Re. boiling water tap... our appliances (fridge, ovens etc) are all on their own fused spurs (that might be the right term), ovens, hob also on their own curcuits, the quooker is just plugged into a socket which is on the kitchen socket ring.

Perhaps fridge + quooker is close to too many amps?

This isn't that helpful, just sharing my setup.