Back to wall toilet - soil pipe connection

[Audis5b9]

Evening all..

I want to fit a back to wall toilet here (will be making a box frame to conceal cistern), however most sites state that back to wall toilets need to have a vertical or horizontal drop from the pan to the waste pipe. Rather than what the websites describe as left or right, which I what I think I have here..

Can I just use a flexible connector with a back to wall? Or whats the best way of doing it?

[Crumpet]

Are you having wall hung or just a plain old floor-standing back-to-the-wall toilet?

I’ve done three in my house; two are wall hung and one is floor standing so didn’t need the frame. In any case, the floor standing one exits to the right much like yours. I can’t remember exactly what I did with it but I think I ended up using a flexi as there was no other option. One of these if I recall correctly:



Of course using a flexi is a bodge but sometimes you can’t do it any other way. Anyway, point is that you should be able to do it, although wall hung will be more complicated (but still doable as my downstairs wall hung exits to the right as well).

[chrisch77]

It all depends on the length of the ‘stub’ pipe on the back of the specific pan you have bought. Worst case it may force you to bring the WC further out from the wall than you had planned, so that the pan connects into the same sort of pan connector you have already. If you are building the boxing for the cistern yourself then that may not be an issue?

[andy43]

Flexi will work but ideally you’d get all your measurements lined up and do it all in solid pipe maybe even using the kind of rigid pan connector that has a threaded rod on the top so it doesn’t move back when you push the pan onto it. Back to wall pans can be a pain as you can’t see what’s going on although here you can fit it while you can still see it then box in above. I also always have some washing up liquid to hand for lube purposes.

[Audis5b9]

Thanks all, have ordered the back to wall (floor mount) toilet now so will follow the advice above.

[119]

You could just buy the kit with the frame and you won’t need to worry about any of it as the pan connector is built into the frame I believe.

[Fatboy]

119 said:

You could just buy the kit with the frame and you won’t need to worry about any of it as the pan connector is built into the frame I believe.

Agree with this - I used this gerberit unit and it was really straightforward to set up and is seriously good quality...

[Audis5b9]

Fatboy said:

Agree with this - I used this gerberit unit and it was really straightforward to set up and is seriously good quality...

Slightly out of shot above where the toilet will be is a window sill, so these frames are too high to make my boxing in all level and making the window sill part of the boxing in.

We will be replacing the lovely tiles and repainting too

[Vanden Saab]

Audis5b9 said:

Evening all..

I want to fit a back to wall toilet here (will be making a box frame to conceal cistern), however most sites state that back to wall toilets need to have a vertical or horizontal drop from the pan to the waste pipe. Rather than what the websites describe as left or right, which I what I think I have here..


Can I just use a flexible connector with a back to wall? Or whats the best way of doing it?

I think what they mean is because the back to wall loo has sides that go back to the wall you have to run the waste pipe into the boxing and then have the turn rather than the turn straight out sideways that you have with a conventional loo that has a cut out for a side exit pipe.

You could use a flexible but the way I would do it would be to get a straight pipe that goes from the loo to the turn, like this

[SunsetZed]

I'm interested as to why so many people are against the flexible approach. I would have thought for your average DIY'er the chances are that they're a lot less likely to get a leak with a flex than trying to get the pipes millimetre perfect so that they join up without flexing and risking a join that's not watertight.

[dmsims]

Audis5b9 said:

Slightly out of shot above where the toilet will be is a window sill, so these frames are too high to make my boxing in all level and making the window sill part of the boxing in.

We will be replacing the lovely tiles and repainting too

Frames come in different sizes and are adjustable

[Consigliere]

Audis5b9 said:

Slightly out of shot above where the toilet will be is a window sill, so these frames are too high to make my boxing in all level and making the window sill part of the boxing in.

We will be replacing the lovely tiles and repainting too

out of interest, is that a chimney in the corner?

[chrisch77]

Consigliere said:

out of interest, is that a chimney in the corner?

It's the soil pipe casing, hence the OP's original question....

[smokey mow]

SunsetZed said:

I'm interested as to why so many people are against the flexible approach. I would have thought for your average DIY'er the chances are that they're a lot less likely to get a leak with a flex than trying to get the pipes millimetre perfect so that they join up without flexing and risking a join that's not watertight.

Speaking from experience, because over time they rot through, break down with UV and can be easily eaten by rats.

[andy43]

Yeah I look at the no name flexis in Screwfix etc and just think that’s a st storm waiting to happen. I’d always use solid if poss, or at least a proper branded Mcalpine or similar. If you measure ten times and test fit it can be done ok.

[chrisch77]

Flexis are a bodge in this situation. They aren't smooth on the inside, so 'solids' will not flow easily and residues remain, they will also likely sag if you bend them sideways like the OPs situation, again causing stuff to remain in a low spot. Like any other convoluted pipe they may also fail in time through one of the folds.

[dmsims]

Frames can also side exit

[SunsetZed]

Thanks all for the responses. I guess my view is tarnished by having had to take out a bathroom where the soil pipes were not joined properly resulting in rotten floorboards after a 'professional' had fitted it previously!

[Courtathor]

Audis5b9 said:

Slightly out of shot above where the toilet will be is a window sill, so these frames are too high to make my boxing in all level and making the window sill part of the boxing in.

We will be replacing the lovely tiles and repainting too

I used one of these earlier this year to do what you're trying to achieve:
https://www.vitra.co.uk/flushing-solutions-flush-p...

Allows for horizontal or vertical soil pipe, plus reduced height so I could use cement board to replace the window sill and box around it with the sill removable in case access is needed to any plumbing (in addition to the cistern which is accessed via the flush plate).

Ends up a bit like this:

[Audis5b9]

Courtathor said:

I used one of these earlier this year to do what you're trying to achieve:
https://www.vitra.co.uk/flushing-solutions-flush-p...

Allows for horizontal or vertical soil pipe, plus reduced height so I could use cement board to replace the window sill and box around it with the sill removable in case access is needed to any plumbing (in addition to the cistern which is accessed via the flush plate).

Ends up a bit like this:

Thank you, that is exactly the same plan I had