Replace manual room thermostat with digital type suggestions

Replace manual room thermostat with digital type suggestions

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Police State

Original Poster:

4,123 posts

227 months

Sunday 13th October
quotequote all
I have a manual Honeywell Thermostatic Heating control that I want to replace with a new digital type that has a setting display and possibly have the ability to connect to our router/android phone for remote control.

Ideally, I want a like-for-like 2 wire replacement and definitely don’t want a full house, every room, every appliance connected type of setup.

Can anyone make recommendations. Is there anything out there that will be a direct replacement?

This is what I have at the moment.





Edited by Police State on Sunday 13th October 10:05

Mr Pointy

11,822 posts

166 months

Sunday 13th October
quotequote all
You almost certainly have two parts to your system; the thermostst which is just giving an on/off signal & the programmer which is controlling when the heating & hot water is required. That's the bit that needs replacing to give you more advanced control.

Huzzah

27,513 posts

190 months

Sunday 13th October
quotequote all
Mr Pointy said:
You almost certainly have two parts to your system; the thermostst which is just giving an on/off signal & the programmer which is controlling when the heating & hot water is required. That's the bit that needs replacing to give you more advanced control.
Isn't the simplist way likely to be a battery powered jobbie?

Just set boiler controls to always on and let the new controller/thermost do all the heavy lifting.

Police State

Original Poster:

4,123 posts

227 months

Sunday 13th October
quotequote all
Mr Pointy said:
You almost certainly have two parts to your system; the thermostst which is just giving an on/off signal & the programmer which is controlling when the heating & hot water is required. That's the bit that needs replacing to give you more advanced control.
I'm fairly sure there's just the two wire connection from the wall thermostat to a physical connection on the heater (it's a warm air system - not that this should matter). The wire runs over the ceilings and intot the heater cupboard. There is no programmer at the heater end, it's either on or off, driven by temprature control on the thermostat.

Hence, why I want to replace it with a like-for-like wired thermo, but with more functionality.



megaphone

10,934 posts

258 months

Sunday 13th October
quotequote all
You need to check what voltage may be a cross the two wires, looks like it could be low voltage 12-24v (AC or DC?). You'd need to get a similar replacement that works on the same voltage.

Edited by megaphone on Sunday 13th October 14:40

Tymb

142 posts

102 months

Sunday 13th October
quotequote all
On my hot air system, it had the basic temperature switch in the lounge and then an old fashioned mechanical timer on the heat unit with and off,auto and on switch. I just put the switch on the heater to permanently On and replaced the temperature switch with an older version of the Seimens switch above. Worked fine for a number of years, I then replaced it with a Netatmo smart unit, that has worked fine for about the last 4 years. It runs on batteries and just has a no volt contact so it does not matter what the voltage is from the heater unit. Batteries last at least a year.

https://shop.netatmo.com/en-gb/energy/individual-b...

119

9,499 posts

43 months

Sunday 13th October
quotequote all
On a warm air system I was involved in, you could not add ‘normal’ controls to it and were stuck with the thermister control it had fitted.

They do not work at the same level as modern controls, and can actually damage the pcb on some.

Pic or model of the heater would help.

Edited by 119 on Sunday 13th October 16:54

Police State

Original Poster:

4,123 posts

227 months

Sunday 13th October
quotequote all
Tymb said:
On my hot air system, it had the basic temperature switch in the lounge and then an old fashioned mechanical timer on the heat unit with and off,auto and on switch. I just put the switch on the heater to permanently On and replaced the temperature switch with an older version of the Seimens switch above. Worked fine for a number of years, I then replaced it with a Netatmo smart unit, that has worked fine for about the last 4 years. It runs on batteries and just has a no volt contact so it does not matter what the voltage is from the heater unit. Batteries last at least a year.

https://shop.netatmo.com/en-gb/energy/individual-b...
Your description of your heating setup reads identical to mine. We follow the same operating principles.
Was your sysyem a Johnson Starley Warm air unit?



Police State

Original Poster:

4,123 posts

227 months

Sunday 13th October
quotequote all
119 said:
On a warm air system I was involved in, you could not add ‘normal’ controls to it and were stuck with the thermister control it had fitted.

They do not work at the same level as modern controls, and can actually damage the pcb on some.

Pic or model of the heater would help.

Edited by 119 on Sunday 13th October 16:54
I don't want to add something to the actual heater unit, I just want to replace the thermo temp control unit that's on a wall in another room.

119

9,499 posts

43 months

Sunday 13th October
quotequote all
Police State said:
119 said:
On a warm air system I was involved in, you could not add ‘normal’ controls to it and were stuck with the thermister control it had fitted.

They do not work at the same level as modern controls, and can actually damage the pcb on some.

Pic or model of the heater would help.

Edited by 119 on Sunday 13th October 16:54
I don't want to add something to the actual heater unit, I just want to replace the thermo temp control unit that's on a wall in another room.
If it is the thermistor type, in many cases you wont be able to as they don't work like a conventional stat.

Check the heater manual!

biggiles

1,832 posts

232 months

Sunday 13th October
quotequote all
I replaced several "dumb thermostats" with basic Tuya-compatible thermostats. Lots of examples on Amazon, they work with apps/Alexa if needed. Not as sophisticated as the big brand names, but they're usually about £20 and simple to use.

Your options will depend upon your wiring.