JK Routed UFH V Low Profile UFH
Discussion
Hi all
Is there anyone who has low profile or JK routed UFH solutions?
Or better, is there anyone who found out which one is best?
I am in the process of deciding which one to go with and the costs are similar. Builder suspects that the low profile solution has some insulation but i am not sure how much insulation will impact the head. JK routing will also allow for larger UFH pipes.
Edit: House ground floor is a huge concrete slab so digging it up, insulating it, screen then latex was so much money!
Thanks
Nick
Is there anyone who has low profile or JK routed UFH solutions?
Or better, is there anyone who found out which one is best?
I am in the process of deciding which one to go with and the costs are similar. Builder suspects that the low profile solution has some insulation but i am not sure how much insulation will impact the head. JK routing will also allow for larger UFH pipes.
Edit: House ground floor is a huge concrete slab so digging it up, insulating it, screen then latex was so much money!
Thanks
Nick
Edited by Too Late on Thursday 10th October 19:11
Edited by Too Late on Thursday 10th October 19:12
Edited by Too Late on Thursday 10th October 19:13
I posted my experience in your other thread ( https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... ) of installing an 11 loop low profile UFH system across our entire 120sqm ground floor and also my reasons for going with an overfloor system rather than JK, but if you've got any questions fire away.
Whatever you decide to go for, don't forget to budget for 5-10mm of screed over top of it all and most importantly don't underestimate how much disruption it will cause. I was lucky enough to have the opportunity to install ours before we moved in so had a completely empty house. I have no idea how I'd have managed it if we were living here at the time with furniture etc scattered around, you can't really do this room by room in isolation because each pipe loop for every room needs to work it's way back to the manifold, so at a minimum you need the room housing the manifold clear plus every room in between. Also with an overboard system like I used, it raised the floor by about 25mm which meant having to cut down the base of all the doors, raise things like toilets and ensure any door thresholds were high enough to clear.
Whatever you decide to go for, don't forget to budget for 5-10mm of screed over top of it all and most importantly don't underestimate how much disruption it will cause. I was lucky enough to have the opportunity to install ours before we moved in so had a completely empty house. I have no idea how I'd have managed it if we were living here at the time with furniture etc scattered around, you can't really do this room by room in isolation because each pipe loop for every room needs to work it's way back to the manifold, so at a minimum you need the room housing the manifold clear plus every room in between. Also with an overboard system like I used, it raised the floor by about 25mm which meant having to cut down the base of all the doors, raise things like toilets and ensure any door thresholds were high enough to clear.
Edited by LocoBlade on Friday 11th October 22:56
You need to ascertain if your floor is concrete or not. JK flooring cannot groove concrete, it's way too hard.
By far the best option is to go down into the floor rather than an overlay as nothing else needs modifying. However grooving concrete is not that straightforward (I've done three properties).
Ignore anyone who says you will lose heat if you don't have insulation, load of b
ks. Just make sure you keep 600mm away from all outside walls.One (of many) problems with overlay is the lack of thermal mass.
caziques said:
One (of many) problems with overlay is the lack of thermal mass.
How? The overlay is fixed/bonded to the slab itself, and (aside from any actual losses) any downward heat will be absorbed in that mass.Responding to the OP’s comment that JK can accommodate larger paperwork, some overlay solutions go up to 16mm pipework. That’s more than enough for most circumstances. Pipework diameter has an effect, but loop length and layout design (pipework spacing in particular) also plays a part - I’d wager that most installers never really discuss those with people.
caziques said:
You need to ascertain if your floor is concrete or not. JK flooring cannot groove concrete, it's way too hard.
By far the best option is to go down into the floor rather than an overlay as nothing else needs modifying. However grooving concrete is not that straightforward (I've done three properties).
Ignore anyone who says you will lose heat if you don't have insulation, load of bks. Just make sure you keep 600mm away from all outside walls.
One (of many) problems with overlay is the lack of thermal mass.
I have the routed option from JK and most of the floor was concrete. By far the best option is to go down into the floor rather than an overlay as nothing else needs modifying. However grooving concrete is not that straightforward (I've done three properties).
Ignore anyone who says you will lose heat if you don't have insulation, load of b
ks. Just make sure you keep 600mm away from all outside walls.One (of many) problems with overlay is the lack of thermal mass.
LocoBlade said:
I posted my experience in your other thread ( https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... ) of installing an 11 loop low profile UFH system across our entire 120sqm ground floor and also my reasons for going with an overfloor system rather than JK, but if you've got any questions fire away.
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