Joist hangers for wallplates?

[MDMetal]

Does such a thing exist? I'm looking to put some joists across the garage to lay a proper floor, the last owners had (as usually seems to be the case) just laid boards on the trusses which I want to remove and replace with a floor not resting on my roof. The ends of the garage have a wooden wallplate on top of the last course of breeze blocks. I'd like to use joist hangers that just nail into the wallplate but it seems they don't exist, either masonry hangers which are used during construction (not much use now!) Or wooden hangers which are designed for hanging over and into beams which I also don't have.

Before anyone asks it's a 6m span so even though it's just for a bit of storage I'll be needing some seriously chunky joists hence wanting to hang them rather than sit them on the wallplates. This means I'll get the trusses happily unloaded between my new ceiling and new floor. Which should be a far nicer solution than currently

[paulrockliffe]

You need to support the joist end laterally at the top and bottom, with a hanger fixed only to the wall plate you won't get adequate lateraly restraint at the bottom. I'm not sure you'll get enough nails into the wood either, especially if the roof slope limits you ability to get nails in the top of the plate. I doubt you can buy these as getting fixings into the masonry is to much of a pain in the arse for a professional.

For your use you could get the lateral restrain by nogging the joists close to the wall, so they can't twist. But I would simply screw a joist to the wall plate and against the wall and bolt it into the masonry below the wall plate, then hang the joists off that. You could skip the hangers if you used an L shaped length of steel in the same way to create a ledge to sit your joists onto too.

[MDMetal]

paulrockliffe said:

You need to support the joist end laterally at the top and bottom, with a hanger fixed only to the wall plate you won't get adequate lateraly restraint at the bottom. I'm not sure you'll get enough nails into the wood either, especially if the roof slope limits you ability to get nails in the top of the plate. I doubt you can buy these as getting fixings into the masonry is to much of a pain in the arse for a professional.

For your use you could get the lateral restrain by nogging the joists close to the wall, so they can't twist. But I would simply screw a joist to the wall plate and against the wall and bolt it into the masonry below the wall plate, then hang the joists off that. You could skip the hangers if you used an L shaped length of steel in the same way to create a ledge to sit your joists onto too.

I think I get what you mean however the steel beams over the garage door I assume stop me doing that. I realise as well bricks not breeze blocks. The other end of the garage is some nice thick beams bolted together in annoying positions here's some.photos for fun..

[Aluminati]

For a 6 m span, you’ll probably need 8x2’s bolted together as they have already done.

Do you have room for gallows brackets with a saddle ?

[MDMetal]

Aluminati said:

For a 6 m span, you’ll probably need 8x2’s bolted together as they have already done.

Do you have room for gallows brackets with a saddle ?

I'm familiar with gallows brackets but not the saddle part, I'm assuming the saddle extends back along the horizontal part of the bracket so it partly sits on the wallplate as well as being bolted into the wall? What's the best way to deal with the door steels?

[Alucidnation]

What are you planning on storing up there?

[NMNeil]

Check out Simpson joist hangers. i use them all the time and they're cheap.
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Bui...
https://www2.strongtie.com/webapps/joisthangersele...

[MDMetal]

Alucidnation said:

What are you planning on storing up there?

Crap! The usual boxes of bits and pieces, spare whatsits etc. (No gym equipment like the wooden floor thread )

[MDMetal]

NMNeil said:

Check out Simpson joist hangers. i use them all the time and they're cheap.
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Bui...
https://www2.strongtie.com/webapps/joisthangersele...

Indeed but which type work for the thin plate over the garage door steels? That's where I'm stuck, unless I just put a new frame above the doors on some posts?

[Zoobeef]

I used these.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-truss-clips-ga...

[Alucidnation]

MDMetal said:

Alucidnation said:

What are you planning on storing up there?

Crap! The usual boxes of bits and pieces, spare whatsits etc. (No gym equipment like the wooden floor thread )

To be honest, boarding onto the trusses would be fine for general storage crap.

[Zoobeef]

If thats what you're after.

[Little Lofty]

I boarded out the trusses in the garage 16 years ago, they can take a reasonable weight. 6m is a long span for timber, 9x3 only span 5m from memory, it’s a lot of cost and work for little gain.

[MDMetal]

Zoobeef said:

If thats what you're after.

I'm thinking more...



As it looks like the fixings are purely at the top. But as has been said I have limited access to drill down through the plate

[MDMetal]

Little Lofty said:

I boarded out the trusses in the garage 16 years ago, they can take a reasonable weight. 6m is a long span for timber, 9x3 only span 5m from memory, it’s a lot of cost and work for little gain.

Surely the fact you need such thick beams points to the fact something as light as the trusses shouldn't be loaded. Adding 22mm t&g across the top and 9mm plasterboard underneath is going to add a fair weight before I start putting anything up. It's definitely a fair cost but I'll be happy it's done right and every extra bit of junk isnt going to be the final straw

[SAB888]

MDMetal said:

I'm thinking more...



As it looks like the fixings are purely at the top. But as has been said I have limited access to drill down through the plate

You can get them with fixings at front, on top, and at rear (part that you can't see in that image).

[MDMetal]

SAB888 said:

MDMetal said:

I'm thinking more...



As it looks like the fixings are purely at the top. But as has been said I have limited access to drill down through the plate

You can get them with fixings at front, on top, and at rear (part that you can't see in that image).

Well I certainly don't have access to the rear! I assume the fixings at the top are more than hammering a couple of twisted nails in?

[SAB888]

MDMetal said:

SAB888 said:

MDMetal said:

I'm thinking more...



As it looks like the fixings are purely at the top. But as has been said I have limited access to drill down through the plate

You can get them with fixings at front, on top, and at rear (part that you can't see in that image).

Well I certainly don't have access to the rear! I assume the fixings at the top are more than hammering a couple of twisted nails in?

Holes and/or slots for nails or screws depending on what you can get into a restricted space.

[Ashtray83]

Think I would fix an 8x2 along the width chemical fixings into the brickwork and some nice chunky screws into the existing wall plate above the lintel then you can use conventional joist hangars

[MDMetal]

Ashtray83 said:

Think I would fix an 8x2 along the width chemical fixings into the brickwork and some nice chunky screws into the existing wall plate above the lintel then you can use conventional joist hangars

Makes sense, I'm just wondering how.many fixings if get into the brickwork. I reckon two each side of the lintel? (It's a double garage so you can imagine another lintle on the other side. I don't know the wallplate is thick enough to really get some proper heavy screws in, what size are you thinking?