Copper pipe-polish or lacquer or both?

Copper pipe-polish or lacquer or both?

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Discussion

bobski1

Original Poster:

1,940 posts

119 months

Tuesday 16th June 2020
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About to start fitting some central heating pipes in a room I've decorated, plan is to keep them on show (press fittings) and hold them in place with brass clips up to the ceiling. There is mixed opinion on what to do with the pipes and how to keep them shiny. Some say just brasso, others say use patination oil. There is also mixed feedback on whether to clear lacquer after or not. Given its for heating it would need to be high temp clear lacquer.

Not sure if I need the clear lacquer or just keep them polished with brasso, there are only 2 pipes about 5m for one and 4m for the other?

Also has anybody done anything like this before or had any experience keeping copper tarnish free as I am also questioning if I do it insitu or disassemble and take outside to paint.

If I do have to clear coat Im leaning towards Rylard Brass Lacquer, it seems to be a lot more expensive than a Hycote version but the Rylard seems to be easier and faster to cure.

Pothole

34,367 posts

297 months

Tuesday 16th June 2020
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If you polish them you'll have to do it regularly - pubs often do it daily IME - and you'll probably get polish on the wall...

Simpo Two

89,075 posts

280 months

Tuesday 16th June 2020
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The shine from Brasso etc won't last because the metal is still exposed and will patinate. I'd lacquer it for longer lasting shine. OMG that sounds like a shampoo advert, sorry!

No idea why you want shiny copper pipes on the the ceiling though, it would be like living in a battleship nuts

Pothole

34,367 posts

297 months

Tuesday 16th June 2020
quotequote all
Simpo Two said:
The shine from Brasso etc won't last because the metal is still exposed and will patinate. I'd lacquer it for longer lasting shine. OMG that sounds like a shampoo advert, sorry!

No idea why you want shiny copper pipes on the the ceiling though, it would be like living in a battleship nuts
I don't think they're ON the ceiling...

bobski1

Original Poster:

1,940 posts

119 months

Tuesday 16th June 2020
quotequote all
Pipes aren't on the ceiling they go through it.

So polish & then lacquer, can anybody recommend the best way to do it, would it be leave instiu and wrap everything else up or disassemble & try some kind of makeshift spray booth outside?

Also wondering if anybody can recommend a good high temp clear coat which will cure under normal conditions?

Simpo Two

89,075 posts

280 months

Wednesday 17th June 2020
quotequote all
bobski1 said:
Pipes aren't on the ceiling they go through it.

So polish & then lacquer, can anybody recommend the best way to do it, would it be leave instiu and wrap everything else up or disassemble & try some kind of makeshift spray booth outside?
'and hold them in place with brass clips up to the ceiling' - I see what you actually meant now...

If spraying is too awkward you can buy lacquer in a bottle and paint it on: https://tinyurl.com/y8mj8kyz


bobski1

Original Poster:

1,940 posts

119 months

Wednesday 17th June 2020
quotequote all
Awkwardness depends on how I do it, I'm leaning more towards insitue now just because of the size & how I won't really have a setup to do it.

I wanted to try to stay away from using a brush application as I am not sure what the finish will be like compared to a spray can.

Do you think it needs to be brasso polished before lacquering?

Has anybody got a lacquer they can recommend which I can get in the next day or 2?

Edited by bobski1 on Wednesday 17th June 12:57

dhutch

16,467 posts

212 months

Wednesday 17th June 2020
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If it were me, I would polish the pipe before hand while still in long lengths, and likely even lacquer it before hand perhaps after cutting to rough length to avoid painting the end ends. And also polish and clean the fittings and brackets. Then I would install, polish and re-clean where required before doing the rest in situ.

Unless, which might be the case, it is really easy to remove the lot on one piece, with no risk of it moving at the joints, and then drop it back into place to just connect up at the radiator end and within the ceiling void. Have you decided to go with soldereds, push-fit, or crimped fittings yet?

As per your other thread, I would typically use Incralac and have some in, but their are other cheaper options if cost is an issue. Rad pipes top out at about 90deg, most condensing systems with suitably sizes rads, more like 65 these days. So you dont need anything high temp.

Photos once it is in?


Daniel

bobski1

Original Poster:

1,940 posts

119 months

Wednesday 17th June 2020
quotequote all
dhutch said:
If it were me, I would polish the pipe before hand while still in long lengths, and likely even lacquer it before hand perhaps after cutting to rough length to avoid painting the end ends. And also polish and clean the fittings and brackets. Then I would install, polish and re-clean where required before doing the rest in situ.

Unless, which might be the case, it is really easy to remove the lot on one piece, with no risk of it moving at the joints, and then drop it back into place to just connect up at the radiator end and within the ceiling void. Have you decided to go with soldereds, push-fit, or crimped fittings yet?

As per your other thread, I would typically use Incralac and have some in, but their are other cheaper options if cost is an issue. Rad pipes top out at about 90deg, most condensing systems with suitably sizes rads, more like 65 these days. So you dont need anything high temp.

Photos once it is in?


Daniel
Wouldn't lacquering it before affect the seal on the joint?

there will be 2 L shape pieces, 2.5m x 3m & 0.9m x 2.5m (approx) not sure how easy whey would be to move, I did plan on fitting them with the brackets and all and then removing from the wall to enable me to paint behind the radiator and everywhere else needed.

Gone for the press fit, picking up the fittings and tool tomorrow hence the need to figure out what im doing sharpish

Cost isn't a massive issue as I don't want to go through all this effort to then cheap out on the last bit which will make it look good or bad however I don't really want to spend £20 a tin when a £7 one will do.


dhutch

16,467 posts

212 months

Wednesday 17th June 2020
quotequote all
I expect the seal would be ok with the lacquer, but you would clean it off the joint or as said, or paint avoiding the ends.


You might struggle getting the 2.5 x 3m one outside, but could still paint it off the wall in the room. Your call really. You can always touch up the wall afterwards.


Daniel

bobski1

Original Poster:

1,940 posts

119 months

Thursday 18th June 2020
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Gone for Hycote high temp, called Rylard and they said that their brass & copper lacquer isn't suitable for high temp. Not sure what temp the heating & pipes run at so thought I'd be better safe than sorry, I just hope that it cures properly at this temp.

Googling it says temp is 65-80 deg & the standard Hycote starts to be affected at 80 The resin binder in the paint film begins to soften at temperatures in excess of 80 degrees

Edited by bobski1 on Thursday 18th June 15:27

Cheib

24,457 posts

190 months

Monday 12th May
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OP would be interested to know how you got on with this ? We’ve got exposed copper pipes in one room and would like to laquer them. Ours is a low temp central heating system, pipes won’t get above 40 deg.

Or if anyone else has any recommendations ?

Thanks

OutInTheShed

11,437 posts

41 months

Monday 12th May
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Some sort of clear epoxy coating maybe?

I can imagine it looking like water on the outside of the pipe though!

JoshSm

1,291 posts

52 months

Monday 12th May
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Should be able to use standard brass/copper lacquer?

PS. Citric acid will strip copper oxide and passivate copper surfaces so could help the surface finish last longer if used during prep.

Cheib

24,457 posts

190 months

Tuesday 13th May
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Found this…seems expensive

https://www.everbritecoatingsuk.com/copper-brass

Found one small thread on Reddit where a couple of people have used their coatings and say they are durable.