Discussion
On a different tack , here are some fairy doors and animal silhouettes I made for a local park for their family trail. The latter are freestanding, fixed to some re-bar driven in to the ground. The fairy doors seem to be quite popular with the children from what feedback I’ve received.
Edited by wolfracesonic on Friday 10th May 15:59
The bench doesn't look like it's been outside at all, the finish must be bomb proof, you made a good choice there. I love the fairy doors, - I've a small grand daughter who's into fairies in a big way, as well as rainbows etc, I can see a door or two appearing in my garden if you don't mind me nicking your ideas Wolfie?
Some Rustins Plastic Coat arrived yesterday, it's probably fair to say it's not exactly a 'just in time' delivery, work on the craft table is going slowly, mainly due to other stuff but I also think I've over complicated the joints and each one's taking a while longer than I'd hoped.
Looking ahead, I fancy having a go at one of these, there'll be a lot to learn I think, but now I've got Loughran's fine recommendation of Joyce's book, I know no fear. Which probably isn't wise.
https://www.architonic.com/en/product/time-style-n...
Some Rustins Plastic Coat arrived yesterday, it's probably fair to say it's not exactly a 'just in time' delivery, work on the craft table is going slowly, mainly due to other stuff but I also think I've over complicated the joints and each one's taking a while longer than I'd hoped.
Looking ahead, I fancy having a go at one of these, there'll be a lot to learn I think, but now I've got Loughran's fine recommendation of Joyce's book, I know no fear. Which probably isn't wise.
https://www.architonic.com/en/product/time-style-n...
Finished this at the weekend.
Made using the supports from an Oakblock dining room table and Sapele (Bought from Facebook Market Place)
The curvature is taken from an old Jamie Oliver plastic Chopping board. Handle is just a bow handle unit from Amazon which was sanded down and painted in a copper colour.
I had never planned to make a stand, but the offcut from the curve presented its self as something that would work well because the curve obviously matched.
I'm pretty pleased with this board. Its going as a gift to one of Mrs Baker's friends 40th.
I'm trying new skills on each board. I have one more in production which has a juice groove. That really did test me...Photos of that to come at a later date.
Made using the supports from an Oakblock dining room table and Sapele (Bought from Facebook Market Place)
The curvature is taken from an old Jamie Oliver plastic Chopping board. Handle is just a bow handle unit from Amazon which was sanded down and painted in a copper colour.
I had never planned to make a stand, but the offcut from the curve presented its self as something that would work well because the curve obviously matched.
I'm pretty pleased with this board. Its going as a gift to one of Mrs Baker's friends 40th.
I'm trying new skills on each board. I have one more in production which has a juice groove. That really did test me...Photos of that to come at a later date.
Advise required please.
I'm made a simple 18mm mdf storage unit, nothing sexy about it, screwed and glued together.
I countersunk the screw heads to enable a filler of some description prior to painting it.
Can I have suggestions on the best filler to use over plated screw heads ? I assume some sort of epoxy resin or similar ?
I'm made a simple 18mm mdf storage unit, nothing sexy about it, screwed and glued together.
I countersunk the screw heads to enable a filler of some description prior to painting it.
Can I have suggestions on the best filler to use over plated screw heads ? I assume some sort of epoxy resin or similar ?
I have used the Ronseal 2 part car body type wood filler, screwfix part: 45077
Used it extensively on MDF panelling throughout the house, has been in situ for 4 years now with exactly zero signs of any issues.
I flatten it back using Festool granat 120 grit sanding blocks (surprisingly good value compared to what screwfix/toolstation offer) prior to priming with oil based cover stain, all blends seamlessly.
Only further thing to note as your mileage may differ, I use lost tite screws that only leave a 3ish mm hole to be filled.
Used it extensively on MDF panelling throughout the house, has been in situ for 4 years now with exactly zero signs of any issues.
I flatten it back using Festool granat 120 grit sanding blocks (surprisingly good value compared to what screwfix/toolstation offer) prior to priming with oil based cover stain, all blends seamlessly.
Only further thing to note as your mileage may differ, I use lost tite screws that only leave a 3ish mm hole to be filled.
GT89 said:
Advise required please.
I'm made a simple 18mm mdf storage unit, nothing sexy about it, screwed and glued together.
I countersunk the screw heads to enable a filler of some description prior to painting it.
Can I have suggestions on the best filler to use over plated screw heads ? I assume some sort of epoxy resin or similar ?
I've never used epoxy resin to fill over screw holes. Polyfilla from B&Q and you may need to apply it a couple of times. Make sure you press it down into the screw hole. sand and paint.I'm made a simple 18mm mdf storage unit, nothing sexy about it, screwed and glued together.
I countersunk the screw heads to enable a filler of some description prior to painting it.
Can I have suggestions on the best filler to use over plated screw heads ? I assume some sort of epoxy resin or similar ?
I have used the Ronseal hardner activating filler and quite frankly found it harder to work with when compared to Polyfilla so have recently reverted back to low tech filler or as a local carpenter called it, pleb filler.
Danns said:
I have used the Ronseal 2 part car body type wood filler, screwfix part: 45077
Used it extensively on MDF panelling throughout the house, has been in situ for 4 years now with exactly zero signs of any issues.
I flatten it back using Festool granat 120 grit sanding blocks (surprisingly good value compared to what screwfix/toolstation offer) prior to priming with oil based cover stain, all blends seamlessly.
Only further thing to note as your mileage may differ, I use lost tite screws that only leave a 3ish mm hole to be filled.
I hope the Festool sanding blocks have their own Systainer;)Used it extensively on MDF panelling throughout the house, has been in situ for 4 years now with exactly zero signs of any issues.
I flatten it back using Festool granat 120 grit sanding blocks (surprisingly good value compared to what screwfix/toolstation offer) prior to priming with oil based cover stain, all blends seamlessly.
Only further thing to note as your mileage may differ, I use lost tite screws that only leave a 3ish mm hole to be filled.
wolfracesonic said:
On a different tack , here are some fairy doors and animal silhouettes I made for a local park for their family trail. The latter are freestanding, fixed to some re-bar driven in to the ground. The fairy doors seem to be quite popular with the children from what feedback I’ve received.
These are superb! My daughters when they were little got a real kick out of finding fairy doors.Edited by wolfracesonic on Friday 10th May 15:59
ferret50 said:
wolfracesonic said:
For humans, there is nothing behind them, just the tree they are screwed to: however, fairies have a special key they open the door with that leads to a magical fairy kingdom. HTH.
Thank you, most helpful!It's a no-brainer which is just right for me.
I'm in hospital at the moment but I'll make a start hopefully on Saturday
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