Prepping a fireplace for a stove
Discussion
bennno said:
You will need to carefully remove the surround to remove the inner inserts which sit behind it.
Once all that’s out you will be able to determine what structural work (if any) is needed on the chimney opening to accommodate the log burner.
Leave the heath until you have it all apart
I have to admit I'm a bit confused by this aspect. We had three stove companies come out to quote for this with the objective to fit a stove into the existing opening leaving it basically untouched. It does mean using a smaller stove but all three were fine with everything staying in place and just ensuring a suitable base is prepared. Once all that’s out you will be able to determine what structural work (if any) is needed on the chimney opening to accommodate the log burner.
Leave the heath until you have it all apart
Gad-Westy said:
I have to admit I'm a bit confused by this aspect. We had three stove companies come out to quote for this with the objective to fit a stove into the existing opening leaving it basically untouched. It does mean using a smaller stove but all three were fine with everything staying in place and just ensuring a suitable base is prepared.
So they are thinking the stove just sits full in front of the existing fire surround on an extended hearth?bennno said:
Gad-Westy said:
I have to admit I'm a bit confused by this aspect. We had three stove companies come out to quote for this with the objective to fit a stove into the existing opening leaving it basically untouched. It does mean using a smaller stove but all three were fine with everything staying in place and just ensuring a suitable base is prepared.
So they are thinking the stove just sits full in front of the existing fire surround on an extended hearth?bennno said:
Does the stove you have selected have a required rear and side air gap? Perhaps share the detail of the stove for more information.
Normal approach would be to remove the fire surround, open out the inner chimney with a lintel then have a larger recess for the stove with 10-165
I'm pretty sure this is the exact model. Normal approach would be to remove the fire surround, open out the inner chimney with a lintel then have a larger recess for the stove with 10-165
https://salamanderstoves.com/product/the-hobbit-st...
Spec refers to distances to combustible materials rather than air gaps.
I have to admit, this sort of thing was a big part of the reason of getting a stove company enlisted to do the work. We were just going to prep the base. I'm starting to think I've opened a can of worms and might just ask them to handle the whole lot.
Gad-Westy said:
Selected Stove dimensions are:
Height (excluding stove collar) 460mm
Height (including stove collar) 465mm
Width 302mm
Depth 355mm
Essentially it will sit more or less inside the existing opening with flu extending up into the chimney above.
Well that (and the photo) makes perfect sense now thanks..........carry on Height (excluding stove collar) 460mm
Height (including stove collar) 465mm
Width 302mm
Depth 355mm
Essentially it will sit more or less inside the existing opening with flu extending up into the chimney above.
![thumbup](/inc/images/thumbup.gif)
Gad-Westy said:
bennno said:
Does the stove you have selected have a required rear and side air gap? Perhaps share the detail of the stove for more information.
Normal approach would be to remove the fire surround, open out the inner chimney with a lintel then have a larger recess for the stove with 10-165
I'm pretty sure this is the exact model. Normal approach would be to remove the fire surround, open out the inner chimney with a lintel then have a larger recess for the stove with 10-165
https://salamanderstoves.com/product/the-hobbit-st...
Spec refers to distances to combustible materials rather than air gaps.
I have to admit, this sort of thing was a big part of the reason of getting a stove company enlisted to do the work. We were just going to prep the base. I'm starting to think I've opened a can of worms and might just ask them to handle the whole lot.
Gad-Westy said:
I'm pretty sure this is the exact model.
https://salamanderstoves.com/product/the-hobbit-st...
Spec refers to distances to combustible materials rather than air gaps.
I have to admit, this sort of thing was a big part of the reason of getting a stove company enlisted to do the work. We were just going to prep the base. I'm starting to think I've opened a can of worms and might just ask them to handle the whole lot.
"If the stove is to be installed in a non-combustible recess, it is recommended that 100mm clearance is left at the back and sides for maintenance and to allow air to circulate around the stove."https://salamanderstoves.com/product/the-hobbit-st...
Spec refers to distances to combustible materials rather than air gaps.
I have to admit, this sort of thing was a big part of the reason of getting a stove company enlisted to do the work. We were just going to prep the base. I'm starting to think I've opened a can of worms and might just ask them to handle the whole lot.
Do you have 10cm at each side and at the back?
bennno said:
"If the stove is to be installed in a non-combustible recess, it is recommended that 100mm clearance is left at the back and sides for maintenance and to allow air to circulate around the stove."
Do you have 10cm at each side and at the back?
150 ish to the sides. The back is really dependent on where it's placed which I would assume is partly dictated by flu alignment. I assume that has already been thought about by the supplier/fitter. Do you have 10cm at each side and at the back?
Gad-Westy said:
150 ish to the sides. The back is really dependent on where it's placed which I would assume is partly dictated by flu alignment. I assume that has already been thought about by the supplier/fitter.
So the fireplace opening is 600mm wide? It looks smaller in the picture?bennno said:
"If the stove is to be installed in a non-combustible recess, it is recommended that 100mm clearance is left at the back and sides for maintenance and to allow air to circulate around the stove."
Do you have 10cm at each side and at the back?
I'll correct you on that - It needs 150mm either side and 100mm at rearDo you have 10cm at each side and at the back?
As with gas, manufacturers installation instructions take priority over building regs.
bennno said:
So the fireplace opening is 600mm wide? It looks smaller in the picture?
You're quite right. Because I had a thick moment and only accounted for a gap on one side. It's approx 450mm. I couldn't see the part that you referenced about minimum air gap on that link. Any chance of sending me to the right place?
Gad-Westy said:
bennno said:
So the fireplace opening is 600mm wide? It looks smaller in the picture?
You're quite right. Because I had a thick moment and only accounted for a gap on one side. It's approx 450mm. I couldn't see the part that you referenced about minimum air gap on that link. Any chance of sending me to the right place?
what you'll probably find if you remove the surround is blocks narrowing the chimney cavity - which weve always had a builder do then it'll open up almost as wide as the outer part of your surround - giving plenty of room for the stove
Edited by bennno on Monday 1st July 19:03
Gad-Westy said:
Thanks Bennno. Can see that now. So I have 75mm ish and 100mm is 'recommended'. I guess it boils down to how important that recommendation is. Something for me to run past the supplier.
I posted a screen grab of your stove manufacturers installation guide - it states 150mm either side and 100mm to rear - any other 'recommendations' are irrelevant. However if your HETAS installer signs it off then it's extremely unlikely that building control will visit and check.
dickymint said:
I posted a screen grab of your stove manufacturers installation guide - it states 150mm either side and 100mm to rear - any other 'recommendations' are irrelevant.
However if your HETAS installer signs it off then it's extremely unlikely that building control will visit and check.
Cheers. That gap is to combustible materials which if I’m reading it correctly is not the same as an air gap. And actually even then, only with additional heat shields. I have no combustible material anywhere near it but I also don’t have 100mm+ air gap. But as you say, I think I’ve engaged the right people to do this so, though I’ll proceed with caution, I’m not especially worried about it. However if your HETAS installer signs it off then it's extremely unlikely that building control will visit and check.
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