Scart lead upgrade?
Discussion
Is the existing one wired for RGB output (and your Sky box set to output RGB)? If so and the lead is reasonably short, then probably not a major PQ difference. I'm not a great believer in expensive cables as I've never found them to give any improvement myself, especially HDMI ones (they either work or they don't IMHO). As you've had positive results with changing mains cables, maybe you will feel the scart lead change worthwhile....
OldSkoolRS said:
Is the existing one wired for RGB output (and your Sky box set to output RGB)? If so and the lead is reasonably short, then probably not a major PQ difference. I'm not a great believer in expensive cables as I've never found them to give any improvement myself, especially HDMI ones (they either work or they don't IMHO). As you've had positive results with changing mains cables, maybe you will feel the scart lead change worthwhile....
No its not using RGB,just the standard 'old style' one.You are right about the HDMI cable as I bought one off amazon for £3 and it worked a treat!
Not quite sure what you mean 'just the old style one'. 
I don't have a Sky box, but I understand they can be set to output either composite or RGB in one of the menus (might be labelled 'PAL' or RGB in the video output menu). Using RGB output rather than composite will make far more difference to the picture quality than changing the make of lead (as long as the lead is fully wired and can 'carry' RGB, which all but the very cheapest usually are).
I don't have a Sky box, but I understand they can be set to output either composite or RGB in one of the menus (might be labelled 'PAL' or RGB in the video output menu). Using RGB output rather than composite will make far more difference to the picture quality than changing the make of lead (as long as the lead is fully wired and can 'carry' RGB, which all but the very cheapest usually are).
I dont see how changing the mains lead and block on an LCD TV can make any difference at all! (Unless of course you have someone constantly mig welding on the same circuit), any modern TV uses a switch mode power supply that basically gets rid of the crap in the mains, power side upgrades are really only effective in high end audio applications.
As for scarts sometime the 'better quality' ones are wors than the freebies! If the cable is too thick or too stiff then they just keep falling out.
Check your setup is right to start off with, as previously mentioned make sure the sky output is set to RGB and that your scart lead is connected to the output labeled 'TV' on the sky box, then the other end connects to the RGB enabled scart input on the TV (usually AV1). (in the sky picture settting menu change from RGB to PAL and you should see a difference, with it set to pal you will notice that the edge of text lettering has a ragged edge where set to RGB it is generally smooth)
Then how do i know if i have a crappy scart lead?
Firstly give it a wiggle and see if the picture changes, if it does then make sure it is plugged in hard enough,
Secondly switch sky to standby then on the TV tuner select one of its channels (preferably something with text on it like BBC3 before it starts) then turn sky back on and hit one of the menu keys.... can you see BB3 floating around in the background? If you can you need a better scart, if you cant then it is fine
Try the same trick again with your DVD player and see if you can see your DVD spash screen floating around behind the sky menu and vice versa.
As for scarts sometime the 'better quality' ones are wors than the freebies! If the cable is too thick or too stiff then they just keep falling out.
Check your setup is right to start off with, as previously mentioned make sure the sky output is set to RGB and that your scart lead is connected to the output labeled 'TV' on the sky box, then the other end connects to the RGB enabled scart input on the TV (usually AV1). (in the sky picture settting menu change from RGB to PAL and you should see a difference, with it set to pal you will notice that the edge of text lettering has a ragged edge where set to RGB it is generally smooth)
Then how do i know if i have a crappy scart lead?
Firstly give it a wiggle and see if the picture changes, if it does then make sure it is plugged in hard enough,
Secondly switch sky to standby then on the TV tuner select one of its channels (preferably something with text on it like BBC3 before it starts) then turn sky back on and hit one of the menu keys.... can you see BB3 floating around in the background? If you can you need a better scart, if you cant then it is fine
Try the same trick again with your DVD player and see if you can see your DVD spash screen floating around behind the sky menu and vice versa.
headcase said:
I dont see how changing the mains lead and block on an LCD TV can make any difference at all! (Unless of course you have someone constantly mig welding on the same circuit), any modern TV uses a switch mode power supply that basically gets rid of the crap in the mains, power side upgrades are really only effective in high end audio applications.
As for scarts sometime the 'better quality' ones are wors than the freebies! If the cable is too thick or too stiff then they just keep falling out.
Check your setup is right to start off with, as previously mentioned make sure the sky output is set to RGB and that your scart lead is connected to the output labeled 'TV' on the sky box, then the other end connects to the RGB enabled scart input on the TV (usually AV1). (in the sky picture settting menu change from RGB to PAL and you should see a difference, with it set to pal you will notice that the edge of text lettering has a ragged edge where set to RGB it is generally smooth)
Then how do i know if i have a crappy scart lead?
Firstly give it a wiggle and see if the picture changes, if it does then make sure it is plugged in hard enough,
Secondly switch sky to standby then on the TV tuner select one of its channels (preferably something with text on it like BBC3 before it starts) then turn sky back on and hit one of the menu keys.... can you see BB3 floating around in the background? If you can you need a better scart, if you cant then it is fine
Try the same trick again with your DVD player and see if you can see your DVD spash screen floating around behind the sky menu and vice versa.
Try a Merlin mains block and black widow power cord.It makes a significant improvement to picture and sound.As for scarts sometime the 'better quality' ones are wors than the freebies! If the cable is too thick or too stiff then they just keep falling out.
Check your setup is right to start off with, as previously mentioned make sure the sky output is set to RGB and that your scart lead is connected to the output labeled 'TV' on the sky box, then the other end connects to the RGB enabled scart input on the TV (usually AV1). (in the sky picture settting menu change from RGB to PAL and you should see a difference, with it set to pal you will notice that the edge of text lettering has a ragged edge where set to RGB it is generally smooth)
Then how do i know if i have a crappy scart lead?
Firstly give it a wiggle and see if the picture changes, if it does then make sure it is plugged in hard enough,
Secondly switch sky to standby then on the TV tuner select one of its channels (preferably something with text on it like BBC3 before it starts) then turn sky back on and hit one of the menu keys.... can you see BB3 floating around in the background? If you can you need a better scart, if you cant then it is fine
Try the same trick again with your DVD player and see if you can see your DVD spash screen floating around behind the sky menu and vice versa.
CarbonM5 said:
Try a Merlin mains block and black widow power cord.It makes a significant improvement to picture and sound.
I don't know how any mains lead can make a difference to an LCD TV's sound (not convinced about the picture either, but YMMV). I think I've only ever used my TV's internal speakers twice and then only because there was a problem with my amp. Even my 40" TV sounds tinny, the smaller ones are unbearable for anything more than listening to the news.Well ive even had hifi buffs tell me they can hear the difference if they connect their spdif lead the wrong way around (yes some of them have arrows on them), and they can tell the difference in sound quality between spdif and toslink, to be honest i feel they have fell pray to idiocy. I am a technical man so technically speaking there is no way that any mains block/extention lead can make any difference to the picture quality to a plasma or lcd device unless of course as previously mentioned you have a full time welder working in your kitchen!
These devices are totaly isolated from the mains and have a fully regulated psu, so what are you going to gain by regulating the input of a regulator?
Mains block and expensive leads do have a place in the world of expensive hifi but your just wasting your money plugging them into a plasma!
Quote from merlins mains lead page,
The philosophy of Merlin Cables is to remove the problems before it enters the hi-fi system. The NAS (noise absorbing system) is designed to work at frequencies of 20MHz and above, with a bandwidth greater than 30GHz, We now fit multiple treatments to all our Mains Cables.
These devices are totaly isolated from the mains and have a fully regulated psu, so what are you going to gain by regulating the input of a regulator?
Mains block and expensive leads do have a place in the world of expensive hifi but your just wasting your money plugging them into a plasma!
Quote from merlins mains lead page,
The philosophy of Merlin Cables is to remove the problems before it enters the hi-fi system. The NAS (noise absorbing system) is designed to work at frequencies of 20MHz and above, with a bandwidth greater than 30GHz, We now fit multiple treatments to all our Mains Cables.
Edited by headcase on Friday 3rd July 07:20
headcase said:
Well ive even had hifi buffs tell me they can hear the difference if they connect their spdif lead the wrong way around (yes some of them have arrows on them), and they can tell the difference in sound quality between spdif and toslink, to be honest i feel they have fell pray to idiocy. I am a technical man so technically speaking there is no way that any mains block/extention lead can make any difference to the picture quality to a plasma or lcd device unless of course as previously mentioned you have a full time welder working in your kitchen!
These devices are totaly isolated from the mains and have a fully regulated psu, so what are you going to gain by regulating the input of a regulator?
Mains block and expensive leads do have a place in the world of expensive hifi but your just wasting your money plugging them into a plasma!
Quote from merlins mains lead page,
The philosophy of Merlin Cables is to remove the problems before it enters the hi-fi system. The NAS (noise absorbing system) is designed to work at frequencies of 20MHz and above, with a bandwidth greater than 30GHz, We now fit multiple treatments to all our Mains Cables.
So I take it you have compared the Merlin with a regular 4 way block on a 40 inch LCD??These devices are totaly isolated from the mains and have a fully regulated psu, so what are you going to gain by regulating the input of a regulator?
Mains block and expensive leads do have a place in the world of expensive hifi but your just wasting your money plugging them into a plasma!
Quote from merlins mains lead page,
The philosophy of Merlin Cables is to remove the problems before it enters the hi-fi system. The NAS (noise absorbing system) is designed to work at frequencies of 20MHz and above, with a bandwidth greater than 30GHz, We now fit multiple treatments to all our Mains Cables.
Edited by headcase on Friday 3rd July 07:20
headcase said:
Nope, but i would love the oppertunity an no im not buying one to do so
I have compared all sorts of cables at the sound and vision show and very few people can tell the difference, I know I couldn't, but then according to one salesman that's because I don't trust my ears enough to hear it.... CarbonM5 said:
headcase said:
Well ive even had hifi buffs tell me they can hear the difference if they connect their spdif lead the wrong way around (yes some of them have arrows on them), and they can tell the difference in sound quality between spdif and toslink, to be honest i feel they have fell pray to idiocy. I am a technical man so technically speaking there is no way that any mains block/extention lead can make any difference to the picture quality to a plasma or lcd device unless of course as previously mentioned you have a full time welder working in your kitchen!
These devices are totaly isolated from the mains and have a fully regulated psu, so what are you going to gain by regulating the input of a regulator?
Mains block and expensive leads do have a place in the world of expensive hifi but your just wasting your money plugging them into a plasma!
Quote from merlins mains lead page,
The philosophy of Merlin Cables is to remove the problems before it enters the hi-fi system. The NAS (noise absorbing system) is designed to work at frequencies of 20MHz and above, with a bandwidth greater than 30GHz, We now fit multiple treatments to all our Mains Cables.
So I take it you have compared the Merlin with a regular 4 way block on a 40 inch LCD??These devices are totaly isolated from the mains and have a fully regulated psu, so what are you going to gain by regulating the input of a regulator?
Mains block and expensive leads do have a place in the world of expensive hifi but your just wasting your money plugging them into a plasma!
Quote from merlins mains lead page,
The philosophy of Merlin Cables is to remove the problems before it enters the hi-fi system. The NAS (noise absorbing system) is designed to work at frequencies of 20MHz and above, with a bandwidth greater than 30GHz, We now fit multiple treatments to all our Mains Cables.
Edited by headcase on Friday 3rd July 07:20
There is nothing to compare, the signal going through an SPDIF connector is the same signal that goes via Toslink, the only different is toslink uses an led after the buffer to transport over the optical connector where as SPDIF dosent. The data stream is exactly the same.
As for hearing the diffence when plugging in your SPDIF cable the wrong way around! well unless the lead actually has diodes in it then there isnt going to be a difference, again its a buffered digital signal, its just 1's and 0's, so if you turn it round whats going to change?
For arguments sake lets say we have made a change to the data stream, then your not going to hear a difference in quality, your going to hear it stopping and starting and squeaking etc..
As for hearing the diffence when plugging in your SPDIF cable the wrong way around! well unless the lead actually has diodes in it then there isnt going to be a difference, again its a buffered digital signal, its just 1's and 0's, so if you turn it round whats going to change?
For arguments sake lets say we have made a change to the data stream, then your not going to hear a difference in quality, your going to hear it stopping and starting and squeaking etc..
headcase said:
There is nothing to compare, the signal going through an SPDIF connector is the same signal that goes via Toslink, the only different is toslink uses an led after the buffer to transport over the optical connector where as SPDIF dosent. The data stream is exactly the same.
As for hearing the diffence when plugging in your SPDIF cable the wrong way around! well unless the lead actually has diodes in it then there isnt going to be a difference, again its a buffered digital signal, its just 1's and 0's, so if you turn it round whats going to change?
For arguments sake lets say we have made a change to the data stream, then your not going to hear a difference in quality, your going to hear it stopping and starting and squeaking etc..
you won't be buying one of these then?As for hearing the diffence when plugging in your SPDIF cable the wrong way around! well unless the lead actually has diodes in it then there isnt going to be a difference, again its a buffered digital signal, its just 1's and 0's, so if you turn it round whats going to change?
For arguments sake lets say we have made a change to the data stream, then your not going to hear a difference in quality, your going to hear it stopping and starting and squeaking etc..
http://www.highendcable.co.uk/Nordost%20ODIN%20Pow...
Einion Yrth said:
headcase said:
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HOLY **** 18k for a power lead!! You would have to have a serious audio system mental deficiency (and [consequently] no wife) to be able to appreciate that!
EFAIn the current 'Home Cinema Choice' magazine there is a news item for a box (the 'Proburn') made by a company called Blue Horizon that will burn your cables in for you in 24-48 hours.....the cost is £700. Even their headline was sarcastic 'Got money to (Pro)Burn?'....no need to EFA. I just can'tunderstand the point of this myself.......
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