B&W What Speaker Cable
Discussion
You can terminate at the speaker end in one of three ways normally. Firstly some speakers allow you to unscrew the "poles" revealing a hole in which you can place the bare wire and screw back down and hold the cable in. Secondly you can terminate with "spade" connectors which allow you to unscrew the "poles" a little and screw them back down onto the spades. The spades are soldered or "crimped" on to the cable. Thirdly and most popular are "Banana" plugs. These can be soldered on or they can also have a "screw" that clamps down on the bare wire. These also have covers to keep exposed wire to a minimum. Some Banana plugs have holes for the cable to go into in a similar manner to the ones on the speaker. These are usually found where only holes for Banana plugs are fitted. Check what you have on the back of the speakers and get back.
Edited by telecat on Monday 19th January 16:30
Usually they'll be 4mm 'banana' plugs like these http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=44115
Which model speaker do you have? (just to be sure)...and which model amplifier as a few options may present themselves.
Also, are your speakers bi-wirable? (they'll have 4 terminals if so)
Which model speaker do you have? (just to be sure)...and which model amplifier as a few options may present themselves.
Also, are your speakers bi-wirable? (they'll have 4 terminals if so)
Just bridge the posts on the speakers rather than run two sets of wire; I doubt that it would make much difference even if your amp was bi-wireable. As for you cable, banana plugs are convenient but only spend money on the look of the cable as 2-core flex from an extension lead will sound the same - I prefer the orange garden flex for the pro look, err I mean, "Bass gets quicker and tighter, with better pitch definition. Vocal and instrumental images typically have more dimensionality and lateral stability. Previously unnoticed low-level detail emerges, and the entire presentation takes on a more relaxed and naturally musical quality that is hard to describe, but easy to love"
bigbaddom said:
Thanks guys my speakers are bi-wireable, where as my amp is not.
I have a marantz PM6010OSE amp and B&W DM602 S3 speakers.
any more help appreciated.
Is biwireing worth it if the amp only has single outputs?
I have a set of DM602 S2 wired using banana plugs. When I bi-wired mine up to the amp (single output), there was absolutely no difference to before. So, I just bridged the terminals and used a single set of wires - much cheaper and easier.I have a marantz PM6010OSE amp and B&W DM602 S3 speakers.
any more help appreciated.
Is biwireing worth it if the amp only has single outputs?
All that bi wiring means is that you run two sets of wires, one for the Treble driver and one set for the bass driver back to the Amp and place both positives into the Positive plug and both negatives into the Negative Plug. Makes things crowded but works fine. The idea is that the crossover in the speaker is taken out of the circuit. It seems to work and is even better when you can bi-amp and the signals can be further isolated. Like most things it depends on the speaker and the amp and you do need to try it and see if it works for you.
telecat said:
All that bi wiring means is that you run two sets of wires, one for the Treble driver and one set for the bass driver back to the Amp and place both positives into the Positive plug and both negatives into the Negative Plug. Makes things crowded but works fine. The idea is that the crossover in the speaker is taken out of the circuit. It seems to work and is even better when you can bi-amp and the signals can be further isolated. Like most things it depends on the speaker and the amp and you do need to try it and see if it works for you.
It doesn't take the crossover out of the circuit, it's still there otherwise the tweeter would blow with the bass information and the woofer would be trying to produce the high frequencies, as both drive units would recieve the full signal.All you are doing is moving the point at which the signal (which is carrying all the audio information, not just bass or trebble) is split to each of the crossovers, by a couple of meters closer to the amp. Totally pointles IMHO
I agree with Mr Yogi - the crossover certainly still in circuit with bi-wiring ( and bi-amping ).
The merits of bi-wiring have been argued over for years in the industry. Some speaker makers press blurb usually implies you will achieve better sound with bi-wiring because the "delicate" high frequencies are routed independantly of the high current low low frequencies. Some of the press claim to hear the improvements with bi-wiring whilst on the other hand some well respected speaker makers stick to single wiring saying bi-wiring is a waste of time and money !!! The cynic in me says bi-wiring is a good way for retaillers to double their speakers cable sales.
Anyway....... back to the OP. Biggadom, if you're lucky you'll be able to locate a friendly Hi-Fi dealer who'll allow you to borrow some cables. Then you can listen at home and decide on any audible differences/improvements for yourself (and decide their worth if any)
IMHO much bigger improvements can be had optimising the speakers' placement in the room ( sorting position and toe in relative to boundaries )and making sure and stands/spikes are as stable as possible. These changes cost nothing but a little time and most who do this agree they can hear the benefit; which is not always the case with bi-wiring and expensive cables.
The merits of bi-wiring have been argued over for years in the industry. Some speaker makers press blurb usually implies you will achieve better sound with bi-wiring because the "delicate" high frequencies are routed independantly of the high current low low frequencies. Some of the press claim to hear the improvements with bi-wiring whilst on the other hand some well respected speaker makers stick to single wiring saying bi-wiring is a waste of time and money !!! The cynic in me says bi-wiring is a good way for retaillers to double their speakers cable sales.
Anyway....... back to the OP. Biggadom, if you're lucky you'll be able to locate a friendly Hi-Fi dealer who'll allow you to borrow some cables. Then you can listen at home and decide on any audible differences/improvements for yourself (and decide their worth if any)
IMHO much bigger improvements can be had optimising the speakers' placement in the room ( sorting position and toe in relative to boundaries )and making sure and stands/spikes are as stable as possible. These changes cost nothing but a little time and most who do this agree they can hear the benefit; which is not always the case with bi-wiring and expensive cables.
Edited by CRACKIE on Thursday 22 January 17:26
Mr_Yogi said:
telecat said:
All that bi wiring means is that you run two sets of wires, one for the Treble driver and one set for the bass driver back to the Amp and place both positives into the Positive plug and both negatives into the Negative Plug. Makes things crowded but works fine. The idea is that the crossover in the speaker is taken out of the circuit. It seems to work and is even better when you can bi-amp and the signals can be further isolated. Like most things it depends on the speaker and the amp and you do need to try it and see if it works for you.
It doesn't take the crossover out of the circuit, it's still there otherwise the tweeter would blow with the bass information and the woofer would be trying to produce the high frequencies, as both drive units would recieve the full signal.All you are doing is moving the point at which the signal (which is carrying all the audio information, not just bass or trebble) is split to each of the crossovers, by a couple of meters closer to the amp. Totally pointles IMHO
telecat said:
Mr_Yogi said:
telecat said:
All that bi wiring means is that you run two sets of wires, one for the Treble driver and one set for the bass driver back to the Amp and place both positives into the Positive plug and both negatives into the Negative Plug. Makes things crowded but works fine. The idea is that the crossover in the speaker is taken out of the circuit. It seems to work and is even better when you can bi-amp and the signals can be further isolated. Like most things it depends on the speaker and the amp and you do need to try it and see if it works for you.
It doesn't take the crossover out of the circuit, it's still there otherwise the tweeter would blow with the bass information and the woofer would be trying to produce the high frequencies, as both drive units would recieve the full signal.All you are doing is moving the point at which the signal (which is carrying all the audio information, not just bass or trebble) is split to each of the crossovers, by a couple of meters closer to the amp. Totally pointles IMHO
Edited by CRACKIE on Wednesday 21st January 11:54
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