Switching on the sub when the amp is switched on

Switching on the sub when the amp is switched on

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gmaz

Original Poster:

4,629 posts

217 months

Thursday 11th May 2023
quotequote all
I have a subwoofer connected to my Denon AVR1912 that I want to be switched on automatically when the amp comes out of standby. Is there any way to do this as accessing the plugs is not easy.

I was thinking of using smart plugs and have the sub switch on if the amp is using > 20w so it would need two plugs linked together and an IFTTT sequence.

Techno9000

112 posts

83 months

Friday 12th May 2023
quotequote all
You may wish to try an auto sensing extension lead, such as the 'one click intelligent mains panel'.

Plug the AV receiver into the first socket and, when it draws power, the other sockets are switched on.

gmaz

Original Poster:

4,629 posts

217 months

Friday 12th May 2023
quotequote all
Techno9000 said:
You may wish to try an auto sensing extension lead, such as the 'one click intelligent mains panel'.

Plug the AV receiver into the first socket and, when it draws power, the other sockets are switched on.
Sounds ideal, but the reviews are mixed.

I managed to find a power monitor plug to test the consumption of the sub, but it only seems to be 7w when there is no output so probably not worth it now.

dickymint

25,852 posts

265 months

Friday 12th May 2023
quotequote all
Isn't this achievable via the amps HDMI ARC port?

Scrump

22,940 posts

165 months

Friday 12th May 2023
quotequote all
Techno9000 said:
You may wish to try an auto sensing extension lead, such as the 'one click intelligent mains panel'.

Plug the AV receiver into the first socket and, when it draws power, the other sockets are switched on.
This is now my sub is powered up, although not that particular auto sensing lead. Works perfectly.

Oakey

27,804 posts

223 months

Friday 12th May 2023
quotequote all
Does your sub not have a power option on the back of it for this? Mine has On - Off - Auto.

My Kef sub from 2003 had this too.

Captain_Morgan

1,254 posts

66 months

Friday 12th May 2023
quotequote all
dickymint said:
Isn't this achievable via the amps HDMI ARC port?
How?

dickymint

25,852 posts

265 months

Friday 12th May 2023
quotequote all
Captain_Morgan said:
dickymint said:
Isn't this achievable via the amps HDMI ARC port?
How?
I'm not 100% sure that this is suitable for OP's needs or setup but my soundbar is connected direct to my TV via HDMI eARC and other stuff (BT Box, laptop) connects to the spare HDMI ports on the TV - power on the TV and it all powers up including the sub and rears. Just need to change the source to watch/listen to whatever. I would have thought this would apply to an amp in a similar way?

Captain_Morgan

1,254 posts

66 months

Friday 12th May 2023
quotequote all
dickymint said:
Captain_Morgan said:
dickymint said:
Isn't this achievable via the amps HDMI ARC port?
How?
I'm not 100% sure that this is suitable for OP's needs or setup but my soundbar is connected direct to my TV via HDMI eARC and other stuff (BT Box, laptop) connects to the spare HDMI ports on the TV - power on the TV and it all powers up including the sub and rears. Just need to change the source to watch/listen to whatever. I would have thought this would apply to an amp in a similar way?
But it’s not the amp the op wants to switch it’s the sub which is a discreet component not integrated into the amp.

Many amps have a 12v trigger function that become live when they are powered on, this can be used to remotely switch on subs or unfurl motorised projector screens etc. Unfortunately the op’s amp does not possess this function.

dickymint

25,852 posts

265 months

Friday 12th May 2023
quotequote all
Captain_Morgan said:
dickymint said:
Captain_Morgan said:
dickymint said:
Isn't this achievable via the amps HDMI ARC port?
How?
I'm not 100% sure that this is suitable for OP's needs or setup but my soundbar is connected direct to my TV via HDMI eARC and other stuff (BT Box, laptop) connects to the spare HDMI ports on the TV - power on the TV and it all powers up including the sub and rears. Just need to change the source to watch/listen to whatever. I would have thought this would apply to an amp in a similar way?
But it’s not the amp the op wants to switch it’s the sub which is a discreet component not integrated into the amp.

Many amps have a 12v trigger function that become live when they are powered on, this can be used to remotely switch on subs or unfurl motorised projector screens etc. Unfortunately the op’s amp does not possess this function.
So he just wants to get power to the sub confused my sub is always on and in standby when not in use!

Lucid_AV

438 posts

43 months

Friday 12th May 2023
quotequote all
dickymint said:
So he just wants to get power to the sub confused my sub is always on and in standby when not in use!
Your sound bar, with its HDMI input, is the equivalent if you like of the AV receiver that @gmaz is already switching on. It's pretty common now to find that AV receivers have the same sort of HDMI control function that your sound bar has, so when the TV or a source device switches on then the rest of the HDMI-connected electronics follows suit.

Subs don't have HDMI inputs. What would it do with one anyway? There's nothing in an ordinary HDMI cable signal that can drive a sub.

A sub has a physical power switch, a signal input socket, and maybe a signal sensing circuit. If it has this, then there's a selector switch to turn the auto sensing on or off. This will select whether the sub wakes up out of standby once a signal is detected. HDMI has nothing to do with any of this other than perhaps waking up the main AV receiver.

Queries such as the one @gmaz raises come from one of two main concerns. It's either how much power the sub consumes in standby, or it's that the sub isn't waking up when required. This last is a signal sensing issue. @gmaz has already mentioned that now he has measured the standby power consumption at 7W, the drive to find a solution isn't so urgent.

For anyone with signal sensing issues, the common causes are:
  • amp in a mode that doesn't send a signal to the sub (this could be source signal related or an amp setting)
  • too little volume to trigger the sub
  • too much background noise being picked up by the sub lead. This is caused by inadequate shielding in the cable
Signal and amp settings are easy to check. Cable shielding is more of a challenge. All coax cables have to be shielded. That's part of the design. But you rarely find out what type of shielding - some work a lot better than others - and how much of it there is as to whether there's enough to do the job right.

This works really well: Mini Micro Subwoofer cable lead - Super-Shielded The double braided shield is the most effective type for low frequency (audio range) noise. It also keeps the cable supple.

dickymint

25,852 posts

265 months

Friday 12th May 2023
quotequote all
Lucid_AV said:
dickymint said:
So he just wants to get power to the sub confused my sub is always on and in standby when not in use!
Your sound bar, with its HDMI input, is the equivalent if you like of the AV receiver that @gmaz is already switching on. It's pretty common now to find that AV receivers have the same sort of HDMI control function that your sound bar has, so when the TV or a source device switches on then the rest of the HDMI-connected electronics follows suit.

Subs don't have HDMI inputs. What would it do with one anyway? There's nothing in an ordinary HDMI cable signal that can drive a sub.

A sub has a physical power switch, a signal input socket, and maybe a signal sensing circuit. If it has this, then there's a selector switch to turn the auto sensing on or off. This will select whether the sub wakes up out of standby once a signal is detected. HDMI has nothing to do with any of this other than perhaps waking up the main AV receiver.

Queries such as the one @gmaz raises come from one of two main concerns. It's either how much power the sub consumes in standby, or it's that the sub isn't waking up when required. This last is a signal sensing issue. @gmaz has already mentioned that now he has measured the standby power consumption at 7W, the drive to find a solution isn't so urgent.

For anyone with signal sensing issues, the common causes are:
  • amp in a mode that doesn't send a signal to the sub (this could be source signal related or an amp setting)
  • too little volume to trigger the sub
  • too much background noise being picked up by the sub lead. This is caused by inadequate shielding in the cable
Signal and amp settings are easy to check. Cable shielding is more of a challenge. All coax cables have to be shielded. That's part of the design. But you rarely find out what type of shielding - some work a lot better than others - and how much of it there is as to whether there's enough to do the job right.

This works really well: Mini Micro Subwoofer cable lead - Super-Shielded The double braided shield is the most effective type for low frequency (audio range) noise. It also keeps the cable supple.
Very informative thanks thumbup Just twigged that my sub (and rears) are wireless except for the power which is always on paperbag

AC43

11,981 posts

215 months

Saturday 27th May 2023
quotequote all
dickymint said:
Lucid_AV said:
dickymint said:
So he just wants to get power to the sub confused my sub is always on and in standby when not in use!
Your sound bar, with its HDMI input, is the equivalent if you like of the AV receiver that @gmaz is already switching on. It's pretty common now to find that AV receivers have the same sort of HDMI control function that your sound bar has, so when the TV or a source device switches on then the rest of the HDMI-connected electronics follows suit.

Subs don't have HDMI inputs. What would it do with one anyway? There's nothing in an ordinary HDMI cable signal that can drive a sub.

A sub has a physical power switch, a signal input socket, and maybe a signal sensing circuit. If it has this, then there's a selector switch to turn the auto sensing on or off. This will select whether the sub wakes up out of standby once a signal is detected. HDMI has nothing to do with any of this other than perhaps waking up the main AV receiver.

Queries such as the one @gmaz raises come from one of two main concerns. It's either how much power the sub consumes in standby, or it's that the sub isn't waking up when required. This last is a signal sensing issue. @gmaz has already mentioned that now he has measured the standby power consumption at 7W, the drive to find a solution isn't so urgent.

For anyone with signal sensing issues, the common causes are:
  • amp in a mode that doesn't send a signal to the sub (this could be source signal related or an amp setting)
  • too little volume to trigger the sub
  • too much background noise being picked up by the sub lead. This is caused by inadequate shielding in the cable
Signal and amp settings are easy to check. Cable shielding is more of a challenge. All coax cables have to be shielded. That's part of the design. But you rarely find out what type of shielding - some work a lot better than others - and how much of it there is as to whether there's enough to do the job right.

This works really well: Mini Micro Subwoofer cable lead - Super-Shielded The double braided shield is the most effective type for low frequency (audio range) noise. It also keeps the cable supple.
Very informative thanks thumbup Just twigged that my sub (and rears) are wireless except for the power which is always on paperbag
...and the OP's original question was whether or not he could easily prevent it from sitting in standby mode when it wasn't in use.

Which made my have a think as I have 5 of of them dotted around the place......assuming they draw 7 watts ea it's costing me £62.50 a year. Which I can live with.