Accusump non return valve
Discussion
Bearing in mind that a lot of engine wear comes at start up. I decided to see if my accusump was actually helping reduce this by creating oil pressure at startup and how long it was staying up bearing in mind that most of us don't turn the engine over the second we turn the ignition on. In my case the pressure did not get above @12psi and dropped almost immediately to zero. Some investigation led me to discover that most of the contents of the accusump route straight back to the sump via the oil pump doing no good at all. As a result of this I have fitted a full flow non return valve to my oil cooler piping to stop this happening. The result is @40psi which stays for ages reducing very slowly. Simple mod may help reduce startup wear.
Sounds like a good mod.
The other area to look is a quick warm-up feature (stat in the oil system, control water circulation etc)
Highest wear rate will occur whenever clearances are not optimal, as you say start up but also during warm up.
An engine that is driven straight from cold for only a 5 min blat or is started for a 2 minute rev, demonstration or just to make sure it does start, is actually being abused far more than one that is run for a reasonable period and given the beans!
When I was 18 I bought an ex police 3.0s Capri (yeah white and no sunroof) It was under 3 years old with over 112000 miles on it, from the local Police station auction. I dismantled the motor to give it a freshen-up, including head work and a cam install. The bottom end had hardly any wear at all ! I concluded, despite the hard time the engine had probably seen, this lack of wear was due to being at or near its design running temps for most of its short life. Even during oil changes at the local dealership, the engines remained hot/warm right up to being handed back to the BIB (usually found drinking tea in the waiting area).
The other area to look is a quick warm-up feature (stat in the oil system, control water circulation etc)
Highest wear rate will occur whenever clearances are not optimal, as you say start up but also during warm up.
An engine that is driven straight from cold for only a 5 min blat or is started for a 2 minute rev, demonstration or just to make sure it does start, is actually being abused far more than one that is run for a reasonable period and given the beans!
When I was 18 I bought an ex police 3.0s Capri (yeah white and no sunroof) It was under 3 years old with over 112000 miles on it, from the local Police station auction. I dismantled the motor to give it a freshen-up, including head work and a cam install. The bottom end had hardly any wear at all ! I concluded, despite the hard time the engine had probably seen, this lack of wear was due to being at or near its design running temps for most of its short life. Even during oil changes at the local dealership, the engines remained hot/warm right up to being handed back to the BIB (usually found drinking tea in the waiting area).
MarkWebb said:
Steve I would respectfully suggest a fault with your oil pressure sensor. Does it ever read less than 21?
It climbs from zero when the ignition goes on and the accusump opens. I'm quite happy it is working OK.Perhaps I just have tighter tolerances in my pump and bearings.
Steve
MarkWebb said:
Pull solenoid connections off accusump before turning ignition on and see what you get or look at gauge on end of accusump with ignition on to compare. My engine only covered 500 miles and has new oil.
As you seem reluctant to believe me I have been and tested it again.I, like you, tested to see what it was doing when I first built the car and engine.
My engine now has 17.5K miles on it.
Accusump reading 46psi
Gauge (Stack digital) reading zero with Accusump disconnected.
All connected, Ign on...pressure climbed to 30psi within a few seconds before starting to fall.
Pressure returned to zero after 11 minutes.
Steve
Gents, your test's would heavily depend on the type of internals fitted and who specified the clearances when each motor was built.
Certain types of engine block, oil gallery set up and lifter combination will give very differing results to a more standard set-up. Eg, solid roller lifter over hydraulic, Dart or other aftermarket block (with their unique oil systems) compared to a factory GM, etc,etc. If the block is aftermarket with several, dedicated, seperate oil galleries and solid rollers it may well disperse oil pressure much quicker than a more stock GM set-up.
There is no right or wrong.....too many variables here me thinks.
Certain types of engine block, oil gallery set up and lifter combination will give very differing results to a more standard set-up. Eg, solid roller lifter over hydraulic, Dart or other aftermarket block (with their unique oil systems) compared to a factory GM, etc,etc. If the block is aftermarket with several, dedicated, seperate oil galleries and solid rollers it may well disperse oil pressure much quicker than a more stock GM set-up.
There is no right or wrong.....too many variables here me thinks.
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