What bits to get?
Discussion
Having collected the chassis and sundry other bits advertised in the Classifieds last week (sorry to those that missed out), I am off to the factory later this week to have a ride (I know, it's ass about face) and order the rest to get a rolling chassis built.
I want to use the car on the road and for track days and the power will be LS7 of between 550 and 700 hp.
I am collecting a double skin kit and new build CD (old one doesn't have LS engine section) and the Intrax shocks and AP brakes are a given but are there other "extras" I should be considering/ordering at this stage in other peoples experience.
Also, 5 or 6 speed? Will I need to change final drive ratio so that I get relaxed cruising and good top speed (not so important). With that much grunt do I need 6?
Or is there an alternative that is still good on the street as well as the track?
All thoughts welcome.
I want to use the car on the road and for track days and the power will be LS7 of between 550 and 700 hp.
I am collecting a double skin kit and new build CD (old one doesn't have LS engine section) and the Intrax shocks and AP brakes are a given but are there other "extras" I should be considering/ordering at this stage in other peoples experience.
Also, 5 or 6 speed? Will I need to change final drive ratio so that I get relaxed cruising and good top speed (not so important). With that much grunt do I need 6?
Or is there an alternative that is still good on the street as well as the track?
All thoughts welcome.
A true N/A 550-700 and relative amount of torque is going to be great fun but will also require much respect....most new builders don't appreciate this before their test run....enjoy it!
4,5 or 6 speed,stock-geared boxes will all have a virtually redundant 1st gear at that power level, except maybe for parking. Personally prefer to keep it simple, light and reliable, in line with the Ultima principle really. Over complications, gadgets and excess electrics can sometimes detract from this proven route.
The bottom line is, much depends on what you are looking to create?, a factory clone and known end product with all their support, or something a bit unique which will be more reliant on your skills, contacts and funds.
I would go and have the test run, get around as many owners as you can over the next few days/weeks gathering as much info as possible and then sit and have a good think/plan about your project before spending any money at all.
The LS route will give the most satisfying, all-round results, great choice!
good luck.
4,5 or 6 speed,stock-geared boxes will all have a virtually redundant 1st gear at that power level, except maybe for parking. Personally prefer to keep it simple, light and reliable, in line with the Ultima principle really. Over complications, gadgets and excess electrics can sometimes detract from this proven route.
The bottom line is, much depends on what you are looking to create?, a factory clone and known end product with all their support, or something a bit unique which will be more reliant on your skills, contacts and funds.
I would go and have the test run, get around as many owners as you can over the next few days/weeks gathering as much info as possible and then sit and have a good think/plan about your project before spending any money at all.
The LS route will give the most satisfying, all-round results, great choice!
good luck.
Hi!.
Please, take my advice as what it is ( I still have not finished the car) but I've been reading this forum quite a lot.
At this stage (rolling chasis) I would recommend:
-rose jointed suspension
-make sure you will not need A/C
-start thinking about engine/gearbox. Cables/rod linkage? I will use a 6 speed GT3 gearbox (cables wanted), but a lot of people is using G50.(5th gear ratio can be changed easily)
FYI:
http://pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f...
http://pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f...
Please, take my advice as what it is ( I still have not finished the car) but I've been reading this forum quite a lot.
At this stage (rolling chasis) I would recommend:
-rose jointed suspension
-make sure you will not need A/C
-start thinking about engine/gearbox. Cables/rod linkage? I will use a 6 speed GT3 gearbox (cables wanted), but a lot of people is using G50.(5th gear ratio can be changed easily)
FYI:
http://pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f...
http://pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f...
dont discount the LS3...... it can easily make the same power as the LS7 and at a fraction of the cost.
Theres a few nutters around who supercharge the LS3, one is building a steel blocked LSx which will have steel internals etc etc and be capable of well over 1000bhp!! that should be fun
as 738 says do some reasearch and make the car how you want it....
Theres a few nutters around who supercharge the LS3, one is building a steel blocked LSx which will have steel internals etc etc and be capable of well over 1000bhp!! that should be fun
as 738 says do some reasearch and make the car how you want it....
Gulf -LS2 said:
dont discount the LS3...... it can easily make the same power as the LS7 and at a fraction of the cost.
This is often said, but I don't it's ever actually been answered what that fraction is.How much does a 600hp LS3 cost and what is the reliability like compared to a 600hp LS7?
All useful comments thanks chaps.
2 very useful threads kikets . Thanks.
It will have aircon for sure. I already have the standard suspension so the rose jointed suspension would be an extra £1800+ but it can be retrofitted I am told.
Gulf -LS2
I am not a great fan of forced induction as IMO it adds more clutter under the clip and increased temperatures and complexity. I like the idea of a NA engine that can be rev-ed to 7K or more in a similar vein to my Cerbera. With 7000cc it is never going to be short on torque with only a tonne to shift so the idea of an engine that responds to throttle adjustments instantly has more appeal.
I am sure the LS7 route will also be the easiest to sell if I need/want to.
There seems to be a big variation in the costs involved in the different types of transmission and the internals needed to get them to function as each builder wants. There is a lot on here about engines and their costs but is the an idiots guide to transmissions with type, availability, mods, gearing / 1000rpm calculations etc, and if possible costs?
2 very useful threads kikets . Thanks.
It will have aircon for sure. I already have the standard suspension so the rose jointed suspension would be an extra £1800+ but it can be retrofitted I am told.
Gulf -LS2
I am not a great fan of forced induction as IMO it adds more clutter under the clip and increased temperatures and complexity. I like the idea of a NA engine that can be rev-ed to 7K or more in a similar vein to my Cerbera. With 7000cc it is never going to be short on torque with only a tonne to shift so the idea of an engine that responds to throttle adjustments instantly has more appeal.
I am sure the LS7 route will also be the easiest to sell if I need/want to.
There seems to be a big variation in the costs involved in the different types of transmission and the internals needed to get them to function as each builder wants. There is a lot on here about engines and their costs but is the an idiots guide to transmissions with type, availability, mods, gearing / 1000rpm calculations etc, and if possible costs?
take a look here:
http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...
under transaxles/ratios you have a lot of information.
Also, I would suggest:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...
under transaxles/ratios you have a lot of information.
Also, I would suggest:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
An all singing all dancing transaxle would be around 14-16000USD......have a look at California Motorsports' website for most mods/variations of Porsche based units.
As a good starting point, base your transaxle research around a large diameter diff version (930 4 speed, G50-50 or g50-52 5 speeds)
There are several aftermarket boxes around too, beware of lesser supported units though, replacement parts can be an issue.
The more power you require and use, the more expensive it gets..... at quite an alarming rate !
If you like regular 7000rpm you might want to budget for some internal improvements or more frequent freshen-ups of a stock 7. Or, for a more robust N/A unit stand-by for the LSX454 crate motor....IMHO a far more substantial unit for Ultima use & abuse !
Good luck.
As a good starting point, base your transaxle research around a large diameter diff version (930 4 speed, G50-50 or g50-52 5 speeds)
There are several aftermarket boxes around too, beware of lesser supported units though, replacement parts can be an issue.
The more power you require and use, the more expensive it gets..... at quite an alarming rate !
If you like regular 7000rpm you might want to budget for some internal improvements or more frequent freshen-ups of a stock 7. Or, for a more robust N/A unit stand-by for the LSX454 crate motor....IMHO a far more substantial unit for Ultima use & abuse !
Good luck.
Storer said:
Yes Paul. I think I got that.
I have not had a car without aircon for 20 years and I don't intend to start now.
This is not a car, it is big heater with wheels and the main reason why I went for a canam instead of a GTR. I have not had a car without aircon for 20 years and I don't intend to start now.
I never use the aircon myself rather use the window only that both CANAM and GTR have fixed windows !
Then the standard setup has no fresh air intake which means you are sitting in a heated trap that will go hotter and hotter, especiall when
the sun is helping the radiator and engine heat !
spatz said:
.......Then the standard setup has no fresh air intake which means you are sitting in a heated trap that will go hotter and hotter..........
Mine has a fresh air system and it works very well. Picks up air from one of the small front grills but only covers about a third of the grill.Steve
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