Things I would NOT do...again!
Discussion
With many of us still in mid-build and other starting a build, I thought it may be useful to start a discussion so that you experienced STARS out there that are reaping the rewards of you hard building labour could give us 'Apprentices' the benefit of your 'oracle-like' wisdom/experience and help us NOT fall into the many 'traps' that lay-in-wait for us as we enthusiatically swing our spanners, dream up mods, and generally get overzealous about making our babies unique and in our vivid dreams of driving our pride-and-joy, the perfect (to us) finished product.
SO....
Rather than pros on what you added, changed, uprated, refabricated, installed extra (although be my guest!).....
I thought it may be helpful if you guys stated what you probably WOULDN'T DO if you had your build to do again!
This would be VERY interesting and constructive if, of course, egos don't prevent some from saying?
Just think of the help you will be giving, and the PAIN you may be helping avoid!
For me, to start, even though I have not finished my build I would not:
1. Spend so much time (over 12 months) passionately and radically modifying the dash area with no real understanding of the many challenges I would meet and have to overcome (rather expensively).
2. Trusted in a supercar specialist garage to dry-fit the engine and gearbox (nothing else I might add)and create a rear mounting bracket at a reasonable price - I was right-royally FLEECED (I am tooo embarassed to say what it cost, but I could have bought two new gearboxes with that money!) NEVER NEVER AGAIN!
3. Bought the battery in a bundle of stuff so damn early... it will be three years old before I even use it! Even though it is trickled!
4. Remove and inadvertantly bin the stapled cardboard label off the carefully packaged Ultima bits bfore I use ALL the contents, rather than either taping it back or inserting inside! I can't count how many plastic pouches I have half used as I scratch my head trying to ID what is inside and where it goes, sometimes a year later! - I AM A DumKoff! Easy to do whist in a lather of enthusiasm....and hugely timewasting later on!
4. Succumb to spending so much money on stuff I see at shows thinking I would use it and ...then NOT!
Sure there are more but....over to you guys!
Keith
SO....
Rather than pros on what you added, changed, uprated, refabricated, installed extra (although be my guest!).....
I thought it may be helpful if you guys stated what you probably WOULDN'T DO if you had your build to do again!
This would be VERY interesting and constructive if, of course, egos don't prevent some from saying?
Just think of the help you will be giving, and the PAIN you may be helping avoid!
For me, to start, even though I have not finished my build I would not:
1. Spend so much time (over 12 months) passionately and radically modifying the dash area with no real understanding of the many challenges I would meet and have to overcome (rather expensively).
2. Trusted in a supercar specialist garage to dry-fit the engine and gearbox (nothing else I might add)and create a rear mounting bracket at a reasonable price - I was right-royally FLEECED (I am tooo embarassed to say what it cost, but I could have bought two new gearboxes with that money!) NEVER NEVER AGAIN!
3. Bought the battery in a bundle of stuff so damn early... it will be three years old before I even use it! Even though it is trickled!
4. Remove and inadvertantly bin the stapled cardboard label off the carefully packaged Ultima bits bfore I use ALL the contents, rather than either taping it back or inserting inside! I can't count how many plastic pouches I have half used as I scratch my head trying to ID what is inside and where it goes, sometimes a year later! - I AM A DumKoff! Easy to do whist in a lather of enthusiasm....and hugely timewasting later on!
4. Succumb to spending so much money on stuff I see at shows thinking I would use it and ...then NOT!
Sure there are more but....over to you guys!
Keith
I would have bought a rolling chassis and installed the LS-7 and a standard gearbox instead of the G50/52. This would have taken 2 months and been much cheaper. If you really want to build the car read on....
Would have had the front wing vents installed at the factory.
rose joint suspension
much stiffer springs with double adjustable shocks
different seats, my elbows hit the side bolsters on the stock ones
factory mirrors rather than the low mounted ones on my car
installed the new brake light switch that mounts on the brake pedal
used a Ford turn signal unit and as many switches as possible to minimize the rockers that are on the dash. Also would have figured out a way to make the turn signals self canceling.
installed a safety pin for the engine cover
sealed the scoop and used it for engine air intake
Specified a flat bottom engine compartment and fitted a dry sump druing the build instead of following a low pressure oil lamp after draining the Accu-sump around a long fast sweeper.
If you want an older motor:
Don't waste your money on a motor with more than 400 hp
Get hydrallic lifters
Get a block that will accept a standard Chevy oil pan
Avoid the Dart alloy block as it will require a special oil pan and often suffers from head gasket leaks (the manufacturer recommends that you use silicone sealant on the head gasket to prevent oil and water leaks). Rodeck makes an alloy block that will accept a standard small block chevy pan.
Things that I'm glad I did:
Bought the car, it is a blast to drive. It was fun to build, the subassemblies and their organization was impeccable.
Fitted 11" wide wheels at the front to kill understeer
Made the side window removable.
Stack dash: simple is better.
Fitted dry sump system to the car.
Left the grills off the car, the ease of servicing is great.
Aftermarket wheels: Kinesis, really adds to the look that I was after and are stronger and lighter.
O2 sensors on exhaust, I would be lost while tuning the carb without these.
Quick Fuel carb: completely tunable, takes minutes to completely take apart and easily modified. The annular boosters should not be an option, they should be standard.
Saved and spent the money on a custom transaxle ratios that were recommended by Roger Brown with California motorsports. The ratios are perfect for the car and make first gear a really usable thing.
Didn't drill all of the holes in the chassis to mount plastic wire loom mounts. I used very tough zip ties to mount the harness. Prevents chassis rust and is easily removable.
Didn't install the factory dash leather. I painted the dash with a semi gloss black paint and it is fine. It will never shrink and requires no maintainance.
Didn't fit a radio, ear plugs are the norm in my car and if I'm driving on a long trip I use ear buds for music.
Fitted a Chevrolet motor instead of wasting years on something else that weighs more, is less powerful and costs more and would have added months or years to the build.
Things that I'm not sure about:
Factory wire harness: I don't have A/C, windshield washer, fog lamps, interior light, dual gas gauge senders or all the factory gauges. In short there is alot of wire on my car that GNDN (goes nowhere, does nothing).
Would have had the front wing vents installed at the factory.
rose joint suspension
much stiffer springs with double adjustable shocks
different seats, my elbows hit the side bolsters on the stock ones
factory mirrors rather than the low mounted ones on my car
installed the new brake light switch that mounts on the brake pedal
used a Ford turn signal unit and as many switches as possible to minimize the rockers that are on the dash. Also would have figured out a way to make the turn signals self canceling.
installed a safety pin for the engine cover
sealed the scoop and used it for engine air intake
Specified a flat bottom engine compartment and fitted a dry sump druing the build instead of following a low pressure oil lamp after draining the Accu-sump around a long fast sweeper.
If you want an older motor:
Don't waste your money on a motor with more than 400 hp
Get hydrallic lifters
Get a block that will accept a standard Chevy oil pan
Avoid the Dart alloy block as it will require a special oil pan and often suffers from head gasket leaks (the manufacturer recommends that you use silicone sealant on the head gasket to prevent oil and water leaks). Rodeck makes an alloy block that will accept a standard small block chevy pan.
Things that I'm glad I did:
Bought the car, it is a blast to drive. It was fun to build, the subassemblies and their organization was impeccable.
Fitted 11" wide wheels at the front to kill understeer
Made the side window removable.
Stack dash: simple is better.
Fitted dry sump system to the car.
Left the grills off the car, the ease of servicing is great.
Aftermarket wheels: Kinesis, really adds to the look that I was after and are stronger and lighter.
O2 sensors on exhaust, I would be lost while tuning the carb without these.
Quick Fuel carb: completely tunable, takes minutes to completely take apart and easily modified. The annular boosters should not be an option, they should be standard.
Saved and spent the money on a custom transaxle ratios that were recommended by Roger Brown with California motorsports. The ratios are perfect for the car and make first gear a really usable thing.
Didn't drill all of the holes in the chassis to mount plastic wire loom mounts. I used very tough zip ties to mount the harness. Prevents chassis rust and is easily removable.
Didn't install the factory dash leather. I painted the dash with a semi gloss black paint and it is fine. It will never shrink and requires no maintainance.
Didn't fit a radio, ear plugs are the norm in my car and if I'm driving on a long trip I use ear buds for music.
Fitted a Chevrolet motor instead of wasting years on something else that weighs more, is less powerful and costs more and would have added months or years to the build.
Things that I'm not sure about:
Factory wire harness: I don't have A/C, windshield washer, fog lamps, interior light, dual gas gauge senders or all the factory gauges. In short there is alot of wire on my car that GNDN (goes nowhere, does nothing).
Edited by k wright on Wednesday 16th September 15:01
Edited by k wright on Friday 18th September 20:55
1) I would have fitted a Dry Sump from day one.
2) I would have fitted those rear clip warning lights.
3) I should have done a bit more research on wheel arch liner rubberised paint material to keep those horrible stone flick noises to a minimum.
4) Either left the choke on or fitted efi. Cold starts can be a pain (for the neighbours)
2) I would have fitted those rear clip warning lights.
3) I should have done a bit more research on wheel arch liner rubberised paint material to keep those horrible stone flick noises to a minimum.
4) Either left the choke on or fitted efi. Cold starts can be a pain (for the neighbours)
• Would not fit a radio/cd.
Too much else going on to be distracted by that.
• Would not have fitted an intercom.
I wired it all in including the radio which mutes when you talk, the interface to mobile phone, interface to satnav only to realise what a div I looked sitting there with my yellow headset and boom mike. It's all now sitting in a cupboard and I would not sell it to another Ultima owner if they begged me.
• Would not have built the engine with so much torque. I should have fitted a shorter stroke crank to get more revs.
• Would not have fitted an engine oil catch tank.
Would simply have connected one rocker cover to vacuum via a PCV valve.
Reason…It has never had anything in it.
• I expect the same goes for the gearbox oil catch.
• Would have fitted more cable trunking from front to back under the luggage pods.
I fitted on piece in case I ever needed to pass any extra wires. It is now full and I need to run even more.
Probably be back with more later.
Steve
Too much else going on to be distracted by that.
• Would not have fitted an intercom.
I wired it all in including the radio which mutes when you talk, the interface to mobile phone, interface to satnav only to realise what a div I looked sitting there with my yellow headset and boom mike. It's all now sitting in a cupboard and I would not sell it to another Ultima owner if they begged me.
• Would not have built the engine with so much torque. I should have fitted a shorter stroke crank to get more revs.
• Would not have fitted an engine oil catch tank.
Would simply have connected one rocker cover to vacuum via a PCV valve.
Reason…It has never had anything in it.
• I expect the same goes for the gearbox oil catch.
• Would have fitted more cable trunking from front to back under the luggage pods.
I fitted on piece in case I ever needed to pass any extra wires. It is now full and I need to run even more.
Probably be back with more later.
Steve
NOT AGAIN:
1. Would not order an exhaust from GD again, besides the manifolds everything else needed adjustments and rewelding, incl. CATs and mufflers.
2. Never use the glue the factory provides for the heat shield, use the black sealant polyeruthane it is perfect and lets you even move the shield when
not yet fully hardened.
3. Not sure if I would go for the gear linkage again, gave me a lot of headaches, the 6-speed box might be less optimal in gear ratios but the cable mechanism
would have saved me a lot cursing and hours
4. BE SURE to ask the factory not to open the rear lights and front lights openings for you. They do it all wrong every single hole, because they do not have
the right diameter hole saw. Front lights and rear lights need all manual rework which would not be necessary with the right size holesaw.
5. Not using the factory supplied battery again, it is simply too small, even after fully charged, it will give you 10 starts the most !
AGAIN
1. Use that french engine that I bought, apart from some minor modifications it is the perfect fit for an ultima, and the DTAFST ECU works perfectly with
the engine, so far........Started and restarted since I fired the first time and lambda was spot on 0,95 without any lambda controls in place.
2. Ford Stalks, use my wiring it works and removes a lot of switches
3. ETB instruments, great value for the money !
4. Innovate Motorsport Lambdas, tell you everything and work with the DTAFAST ECU
5. No dash trim, leave it in the gel coat, looks cool and is easy to clean will never have any problems with the sun
6. My wheels make the car look so much nicer, get a change get something else than the ultima wheels.
7. Make your own fuel system, no leaks so far and worked from scratch perfectly
8 Pioneer SATNAV, nice system with TMC one thing does all including rear view camera engaged with rear gear on G50
1. Would not order an exhaust from GD again, besides the manifolds everything else needed adjustments and rewelding, incl. CATs and mufflers.
2. Never use the glue the factory provides for the heat shield, use the black sealant polyeruthane it is perfect and lets you even move the shield when
not yet fully hardened.
3. Not sure if I would go for the gear linkage again, gave me a lot of headaches, the 6-speed box might be less optimal in gear ratios but the cable mechanism
would have saved me a lot cursing and hours
4. BE SURE to ask the factory not to open the rear lights and front lights openings for you. They do it all wrong every single hole, because they do not have
the right diameter hole saw. Front lights and rear lights need all manual rework which would not be necessary with the right size holesaw.
5. Not using the factory supplied battery again, it is simply too small, even after fully charged, it will give you 10 starts the most !
AGAIN
1. Use that french engine that I bought, apart from some minor modifications it is the perfect fit for an ultima, and the DTAFST ECU works perfectly with
the engine, so far........Started and restarted since I fired the first time and lambda was spot on 0,95 without any lambda controls in place.
2. Ford Stalks, use my wiring it works and removes a lot of switches
3. ETB instruments, great value for the money !
4. Innovate Motorsport Lambdas, tell you everything and work with the DTAFAST ECU
5. No dash trim, leave it in the gel coat, looks cool and is easy to clean will never have any problems with the sun
6. My wheels make the car look so much nicer, get a change get something else than the ultima wheels.
7. Make your own fuel system, no leaks so far and worked from scratch perfectly
8 Pioneer SATNAV, nice system with TMC one thing does all including rear view camera engaged with rear gear on G50
Edited by spatz on Monday 28th September 15:49
Dont fit non factory seats they dont fit properly and ive still got a bad back
Ditch the awful avo's
Make the car much much much faster!!!!!
Gone LS for my second engine not my third.... the teachers did say i was a bit slow at school.
Watch what you order from the US, weve had a few parts and they have been terrible quality and sending anything back costs a mint.
lots more i could say but i wont
Ditch the awful avo's
Make the car much much much faster!!!!!
Gone LS for my second engine not my third.... the teachers did say i was a bit slow at school.
Watch what you order from the US, weve had a few parts and they have been terrible quality and sending anything back costs a mint.
lots more i could say but i wont
Wow OK
After a few years a lot available now maybe not when I built.
Following would have's
1) Would have gone LS
2) Dry Sump
3) Rose Jointed Wishbones
4) Would have insulated side pods (not pipes)Especially sealed footwell.
5) Leather in Canam, Alcantara fades
6) 3" Seat belts rather than 2"
7) Covered Ali, fed with polishing it.
8) Put in aircon at build not after.
9) Put on uprated drive shafts
10)Put in Indicator stalks
About half the list are on to do basis.
Oh and bought six spare Engines
After a few years a lot available now maybe not when I built.
Following would have's
1) Would have gone LS
2) Dry Sump
3) Rose Jointed Wishbones
4) Would have insulated side pods (not pipes)Especially sealed footwell.
5) Leather in Canam, Alcantara fades
6) 3" Seat belts rather than 2"
7) Covered Ali, fed with polishing it.
8) Put in aircon at build not after.
9) Put on uprated drive shafts
10)Put in Indicator stalks
About half the list are on to do basis.
Oh and bought six spare Engines
Crazy of Cookham said:
Wow OK
After a few years a lot available now maybe not when I built.
Following would have's
1) Would have gone LS
2) Dry Sump
3) Rose Jointed Wishbones
4) Would have insulated side pods (not pipes)Especially sealed footwell.
5) Leather in Canam, Alcantara fades
6) 3" Seat belts rather than 2"
7) Covered Ali, fed with polishing it.
8) Put in aircon at build not after.
9) Put on uprated drive shafts
10)Put in Indicator stalks
About half the list are on to do basis.
Oh and bought six spare Engines
You should have just bought my Can-Am Brian! After a few years a lot available now maybe not when I built.
Following would have's
1) Would have gone LS
2) Dry Sump
3) Rose Jointed Wishbones
4) Would have insulated side pods (not pipes)Especially sealed footwell.
5) Leather in Canam, Alcantara fades
6) 3" Seat belts rather than 2"
7) Covered Ali, fed with polishing it.
8) Put in aircon at build not after.
9) Put on uprated drive shafts
10)Put in Indicator stalks
About half the list are on to do basis.
Oh and bought six spare Engines
The only thing I would do differently if (when?) I build another, is to go LS. Other than that the Can-Am pretty much ticked all my 'could be improved' boxes.
I'd be torn on whether to go for a GTR or a Can-Am third time around though....?
[quote=Stig
You should have just bought my Can-Am Brian!
The only thing I would do differently if (when?) I build another, is to go LS. Other than that the Can-Am pretty much ticked all my 'could be improved' boxes.
I'd be torn on whether to go for a GTR or a Can-Am third time around though....?
[/quote]
Getting withdrawal symptoms then Stig?
Keith
You should have just bought my Can-Am Brian!
The only thing I would do differently if (when?) I build another, is to go LS. Other than that the Can-Am pretty much ticked all my 'could be improved' boxes.
I'd be torn on whether to go for a GTR or a Can-Am third time around though....?
[/quote]
Getting withdrawal symptoms then Stig?
Keith
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