Panelling and seat/runner question

[deadscoob]

Is there anything to stop you panelling the triangular section at the top sides of the forward cockpit? The area where the loom and a/c pipes go. Obviously makng provision for the pipes and loom.

Also..

Does anyone know of any seat runners that either tilt or are height adjustable. The Boss has shorter legs than me and despite moving the pedals as far forward as possible, it looks like it may be a struggle, so am thinking of height adjustable runners that lift the front of the seat so she can get closer but stay a reasonable distance from the wheel. If that makes sense

Cheers

[Steve_D]

1. Why would you want to skin the front triangle as it is hidden up under the dash.

2. You could mount the runner between to wedges pointing in opposite directions then when the seat was back it would be low but as it slides forwards it would also raise.

Steve

[deadscoob]

Panellings is because:

It would further limit heat from the coolant pipes in the cockpit
Provide a handy place for crossovers

Good point with the wedges, thanks

Edited by deadscoob on Tuesday 13th January 22:03

[Steve_D]

deadscoob said:

Panellings is because:
It would further limit heat from the coolant pipes in the cockpit
Provide a handy place for crossovers

Wrap the pipes in insulation if that is the issue.

Make individual brackets for the crossovers.

If you panel it in within five minutes you will find something else that has to pass through there and it will be almost impossible to make new holes with the body and dash in place. Even if you did panel it you will be a long way away from forming an airtight seal with the body to stop the heat rising up into that space.

Steve

[Graham-P]

Agree with Steve about hard paneling, I have covered the cooling pipes but still heat is rising into the cockpit, so I'm going to 'pack' the space with thick sound deadener to try to keep the heat in and feed the air/con with a fresh air supply to make it more efficient so it doesn't recirculate the warm (under dash) air in the cockpit.
I have a CanAm and the low pressure area above the cockpit 'pulls' air through any gaps in the chassis around the dash area, under 70 the air con works OK, over 70 warm air starts to waft up from under the front of the dash and the air con is compromised. I have sealed the rear of the luggage containers in an effort to stop engine bay air being pulled to the front under the above conditions, ever wondered why the luggage lids lift at 90+!!

Edited by Graham-P on Wednesday 14th January 09:30

[deadscoob]

Thanks chaps. I'll file that under "seemed like a good idea but wasn't"

[Graham-P]

It's still a good idea to take as much heat out of the cabin as possible though. . . . . lag as much as you can. . .if you're running an LSx engine then I understand that they run cooler the the SBC so can take the extra lagging.

[V8OWNER]

re the seats.. ive just fitted mine and its a pain with the bolts, Im tempted to fit rivnuts in the runners and bolt thought from underneath..

Any other ideas or suggestions?!

[Steve_D]

V8OWNER said:

re the seats.. ive just fitted mine and its a pain with the bolts, Im tempted to fit rivnuts in the runners and bolt thought from underneath..

Any other ideas or suggestions?!

Rivnuts would tend to stand the runner off the floor a little unless you found yourself some 100 degree countersunk ones.

I put two blobs of weld on the opposite points of the nuts and used those in the runners. The weld stops them from turning in the runner. You could just spot weld them to the runner. Then bolt up from below using button head hex socket drive bolts.

Steve

[V8OWNER]

[quote=Steve_D You could just spot weld them to the runner. Then bolt up from below using button head hex socket drive bolts.

Steve
[/quote]

Good idea Steve, ill get the welder out...

[ROWDYRENAULT]

I wonder about the button heads, I run my GTR at factory ride hieght and the button head seat bolts are the lowest point on the underbelly. After 2000 miles I needed to pull the seat out and two of the the button heads were wore to a point that the allen head would not engage. Out came the death wheel and I cut them off. I wonder if just a low height bolt might be the answer? Any thoughts? Lee