Engine removal
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Discussion

kylemrushall

Original Poster:

1,922 posts

233 months

Tuesday 16th October 2007
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Hi

I am taking my SBC out of my GTR this weekend what is the best procedure for its removal....

1 i have removed the clip and the rear cage braces.

2 i have started to remove the ancillaries

3 exhausts are removed

4 air con pump/compressor disconnected from the block

5 oil/water dropped

Do i need to remove the water pump to stop it fouling on the bulkhead??
I will need to disconnect the Drive shafts but will i have to move the gearbox to remove the engine??
If so is it best to remove the gearbox from the adaptor or remove the adaptor and trans from the engine??
I cant see how to remove the starter one on the bolts looks covered by the trans (GETRAG)
I forgot to discharge the accusump what is the best thing to do? shall i reconnect the battery and discharge it??

thanks any tips would be greatly appreciated!!

Builder

1,225 posts

271 months

Wednesday 17th October 2007
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kylemrushall said:
Hi

I am taking my SBC out of my GTR this weekend what is the best procedure for its removal....
I will take a stab. My GTR isn't complete yet, but I have put the engine and trans in/out a dozen times.

No, I don't believe you have to remove the water pump. The LS7 goes in/out without pump removal.

Yes, the trans will have to come out or be moved back (at least). You may not have to take it totally out if you can rest it on some thin wood or cardboard. Keep the adapter with the trans.

Is your starter bolted to the trans? If so, you may not need to remove the starter. Just slide the trans back. I am not clear about this part because I have not installed my starter yet.

Yes. In fact, you should take the Accusump apart and clean it...especially with the potential engine bits floating in the oil. ...The cooler and hoses, too (and all dry-sump components if you have any).

Edited to say: I think you can just release the pressure from the air valve. Then take the Accusump apart.

Keep us posted on what you discover.

Edited by Builder on Wednesday 17th October 07:13

Steve_D

13,802 posts

287 months

Wednesday 17th October 2007
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• Water pump can stay on.
• Yes remove the gearbox. You could just slide it back a bit and leave it lying in the chassis.
• The box comes off the adaptor. The adaptor is behind the flywheel so cannot come off at this stage.
• Can’t help with the Getrag as I’ve not used one.
• You will want to get rid of the old oil at some stage but I would wait now until the engine is out. Then would be a good time to also strip it down for a clean.

Steve

SchimmS

258 posts

287 months

Wednesday 17th October 2007
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I just did the same with a similar installation (Getrag GT2-box) and you should definitely remove the starter motor as it`ll otherwise foul on the frame when sliding back the box.
Other "tricks" I learned the hard way (most of which you may know already):

Support the engine: put something under the oil pan (hydraulic lifter + wood) at the rear end of the engine. Thus you can vary the angle of the engine to some degree which may come in handy when trying to find a way to slide back the box.

Remove the bolt that holds the release fork in place. Otherwise you`ll never be able to remove the box (ask me - I just couldn`t recall putting this part in, so all credits for the removal of my box go to Lutz - many thanks again).

Remove the clutch cylinder from the box. Otherwise it`ll be a greater challenge navigating through the frame and you don`t want the gearbox to rest on the cylinder when you lay it on the frame (btw, put a sign in the cockpit that says "DO NOT TOUCH THE CLUTCH PEDAL" - didn`t happen to me, just to make sure).

Remove the drive shafts and hold them in a slightly higher position with a couple of cable ties attached to the frame. You may also want to cover the greasy ends with a small plastic bag.

That`s all I could think of for now, most of it probably pretty obvious, let us know how you proceed.

Good luck,
Sven





kylemrushall

Original Poster:

1,922 posts

233 months

Wednesday 17th October 2007
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thanks guys!! I will let you know how things go.

andygtt

8,345 posts

293 months

Wednesday 17th October 2007
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The std 996 getrag has the starter on the engine side so should need to be removed unlike on the GT getrag box which is similar to the G50.

It should only take about half a day but make sure you protect the chassis with plenty of cloths when you remove things.

Good luck.

CanAm Dave

939 posts

253 months

Wednesday 17th October 2007
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Hi Kyle

You can't remove the starter. There is one long bolt through the gearbox and adapter plate and the starter. You have to remove this bolt. The starter can't come out because it is stuck beween the sump and the adapter plate. The adapter stays on the engine as Steve says as it is behind the flywheel. I removed the driveshafts as you have to move the gearbox back some distance. I also removed the clutch slave from the gearbox to allow movement backwards. There is no clutch fork issue with the Getrag only the G50. I will call you later this evening.

Regards Dave

Edited by CanAm Dave on Wednesday 17th October 18:37

kylemrushall

Original Poster:

1,922 posts

233 months

Wednesday 17th October 2007
quotequote all
CanAm Dave said:
Hi Kyle

You can't remove the starter. There is one long bolt through the gearbox and adapter plate and the starter. You have to remove this bolt. The starter can't come out because it is stuck beween the sump and the adapter plate. The adapter stays on the engine as Steve says as it is behind the flywheel. I removed the driveshafts as you have to move the gearbox back some distance. I also removed the clutch slave from the gearbox to allow movement backwards. There is no clutch fork issue with the Getrag only the G50. I will call you later this evening.

Regards Dave

Edited by CanAm Dave on Wednesday 17th October 18:37
Thanks bud i will give you a bell tomorrow.

martinlaw

283 posts

251 months

Thursday 18th October 2007
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Kyle,

Now I know why I could not find the bolt for the release fork last night.

Martin.