Bearings.....again.
Discussion
Not wanting to clog the GTR v Camp-Am thread 
, I'll start a fresh:
Engine came back from AS into the GTR.
250 miles of steady driving (going up and down the revs but never holding). Oil/filter change.
Noticed at this point drips of oil coming off sump and adaptor plate. This oil was being whipped up and deposited over everything in the RHS lower engine bay. Interestingly did have some swarf on the oil plug again - was told that this may have been stuck up behind the baffles when the sump was washed.
500 miles more and an oil/filter change prior to Brands Hatch. Some fairly spirited driving, but never up to Rev limit. Small amount of 'paste' on plug this time.
AS said that it should not leak and I booked it into Charles Dunn for a sump off and oil seal change.
Charles called me and said that he wouldn't be happy putting the engine back in with the bearings in this condition:
So Gail has sent a new set of shells and the job is being done under warranty. Gail asked the obvious question about oil cooler (I bought a new one), oil lines (flushed twice) and Accusump (dismantled - lots of sludge, cleaned and tested).
Hmmm....So just over a 1000 miles.I'm gonna give it one more go and see what happens. Any thoughts from those who know bearings??
A weeny pit pee'd off Pete - PS. ETA Having a bad day!!.
, I'll start a fresh:Engine came back from AS into the GTR.
250 miles of steady driving (going up and down the revs but never holding). Oil/filter change.
Noticed at this point drips of oil coming off sump and adaptor plate. This oil was being whipped up and deposited over everything in the RHS lower engine bay. Interestingly did have some swarf on the oil plug again - was told that this may have been stuck up behind the baffles when the sump was washed.
500 miles more and an oil/filter change prior to Brands Hatch. Some fairly spirited driving, but never up to Rev limit. Small amount of 'paste' on plug this time.
AS said that it should not leak and I booked it into Charles Dunn for a sump off and oil seal change.
Charles called me and said that he wouldn't be happy putting the engine back in with the bearings in this condition:
So Gail has sent a new set of shells and the job is being done under warranty. Gail asked the obvious question about oil cooler (I bought a new one), oil lines (flushed twice) and Accusump (dismantled - lots of sludge, cleaned and tested).
Hmmm....So just over a 1000 miles.I'm gonna give it one more go and see what happens. Any thoughts from those who know bearings??
A weeny pit pee'd off Pete - PS. ETA Having a bad day!!.
Edited by LuckyP on Thursday 24th May 13:03
Edited by LuckyP on Thursday 24th May 14:05
I am no specialist p but it looks like oil contamination to me, you say that possible swarf trapped around the baffles may be somewhat to blame; Most definitely unacceptable scenario as far as I am concerned and a bit laughable that it may have even been suggested as a plausible cause. I was always under the impression that as long as you can't see copper on the bearing, it is deemed fit for purpose and Mr. Dunn is certainly correct in not wanting to reassemble as is.
Does your oil filter have a bypass or is it a reinforced type with no bypass? If it's a plain old bypass type, replace it, because while the oil is cold, you aint getting any filtering as the oil will just travel along the bypass, swarf and sludge included...
Also, do you have a oil temp sender and gauge installed? And what about an oil cooler bypass, maybe the oil is not getting up to operating temperature...
Plus I hope you're using better than Halfords oil this time !!!
Also, do you have a oil temp sender and gauge installed? And what about an oil cooler bypass, maybe the oil is not getting up to operating temperature...
Plus I hope you're using better than Halfords oil this time !!!
peterpsg said:
Does your oil filter have a bypass or is it a reinforced type with no bypass? If it's a plain old bypass type, replace it, because while the oil is cold, you aint getting any filtering as the oil will just travel along the bypass, swarf and sludge included...
Also, do you have a oil temp sender and gauge installed? And what about an oil cooler bypass, maybe the oil is not getting up to operating temperature...
Plus I hope you're using better than Halfords oil this time !!!
Hi, I have std factory set up - and am using penziol AS supplied filters and Mobil M mineral oil. No temp gauge though.Also, do you have a oil temp sender and gauge installed? And what about an oil cooler bypass, maybe the oil is not getting up to operating temperature...
Plus I hope you're using better than Halfords oil this time !!!
TuxMan said:
Bad news Pete, are there any marks on the crank ? bit of a shame makes you wonder ,i bet the air was blue when you found out !!!!! lets hope they get it sorted out quickley ,its either oil starvation or muck in the engine either way it should not happen .
Nothing surprises me now. So I wasn't that bothered. As long as it's under warranty and during the week - I'm cool.LuckyP said:
TuxMan said:
Bad news Pete, are there any marks on the crank ? bit of a shame makes you wonder ,i bet the air was blue when you found out !!!!! lets hope they get it sorted out quickley ,its either oil starvation or muck in the engine either way it should not happen .
Nothing surprises me now. So I wasn't that bothered. As long as it's under warranty and during the week - I'm cool.The grooves in the shell are radial which indicates contamination from foreign bodies. The top coating has all dissapeared. The crank may have 'picked up' so needs to be measured and polished. My money would be on contaminants and it would bve interesting to see what the rod shells are like. There's also the cam bearings to think about.
Boosted.
Boosted.
Boosted LS1 said:
The grooves in the shell are radial which indicates contamination from foreign bodies. The top coating has all dissapeared. The crank may have 'picked up' so needs to be measured and polished. My money would be on contaminants and it would bve interesting to see what the rod shells are like. There's also the cam bearings to think about.
Boosted.
Thanks Boosted. I'll see what they are going to do. Boosted.
Pete
LuckyP said:
Boosted LS1 said:
The grooves in the shell are radial which indicates contamination from foreign bodies. The top coating has all dissapeared. The crank may have 'picked up' so needs to be measured and polished. My money would be on contaminants and it would bve interesting to see what the rod shells are like. There's also the cam bearings to think about.
Boosted.
Thanks Boosted. I'll see what they are going to do. Boosted.
Pete
LuckyP said:
Spartacus said:
You don't seem have been quite such a Luck Pete with you recent engine problems, hope you get it all sorted with the minimum of grief.
Pete.
Yeah, bummer eh?Pete.
I see you have drawn the Atom in the Fighting Torque event........Oooh
All I can say is gulp!
Do you think you will get your engine back together by then?
Just for interest I had a knock develop on my saab turbo recently whilst chasing a 4x4 at 130 leptons for a few miles. I eased off and the knock went away but I noticed it still there on the overrun and when accellerating. So 3 weeks later I pulled the pan and went straight to the rod bearings. Not to bad but I did find a shell broken in 2. I was pretty sure that was the cause of my knock so I replaced the rod bearings.
Because it was all in bits and had been a pain to dismantle I decided to check out the mains. I barely had any left. The ones in the pic above look brand new by comparison. My mains were so far gone that the copper had been flaking away in big chunks. I was down to the backing. Thing is, this car still ran and the oil pressure light went off, plus I was still giving it a reasonable amount of boost when needed
. I had some vibration though. What's more the crank's fine. I'ts been a real pain to fix but I am surprised at how little damage I sustained. Guess regular oil changes must have helped along with not to tight bearing clearances. I reckon bigger clearances are better.
Boosted.
Because it was all in bits and had been a pain to dismantle I decided to check out the mains. I barely had any left. The ones in the pic above look brand new by comparison. My mains were so far gone that the copper had been flaking away in big chunks. I was down to the backing. Thing is, this car still ran and the oil pressure light went off, plus I was still giving it a reasonable amount of boost when needed
. I had some vibration though. What's more the crank's fine. I'ts been a real pain to fix but I am surprised at how little damage I sustained. Guess regular oil changes must have helped along with not to tight bearing clearances. I reckon bigger clearances are better.Boosted.
Boosted LS1 said:
...I had some vibration though...
When this engine went back in I did suffer from vibrations in 5th at 4000 up. (strangely not in other gears at same revs). When I put my left foot on the clutch, their appeared to me more vibration there also, but I have to say I never tried that before so it may be paranoia.Lucky
Spartacus said:
LuckyP said:
Spartacus said:
You don't seem have been quite such a Luck Pete with you recent engine problems, hope you get it all sorted with the minimum of grief.
Pete.
Yeah, bummer eh?Pete.
I see you have drawn the Atom in the Fighting Torque event........Oooh
All I can say is gulp!
Do you think you will get your engine back together by then?
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