Good vibrations???
Good vibrations???
Author
Discussion

luckyp

Original Poster:

6,243 posts

254 months

Sunday 25th February 2007
quotequote all
Before popping the engine back in, I'm giving the beastie a look over for any signs of wear or undesirable chafing....

.....look what I found:





Now the engine mount is a steel/rubber/steel sandwich right, but is the upper plate (engine side) supposed to foul the chassis plate at the points shown in the pics? Surely the engine is insulated by the rubber, unless of course the two upper plate returns are there just to act as 'stops' when the engine is trying to turn!!

Anyone any experience of this?

Ta in advance.

Pete

steve_d

13,802 posts

287 months

Sunday 25th February 2007
quotequote all
Not seen that but then again I haven't looked.
Does the rubber look like it is failing i.e. beginning to splay out at the sides?
If not then I would grind those ears off and re-fit.

Steve

CanAm Dave

939 posts

253 months

Sunday 25th February 2007
quotequote all
Hi Pete

I think everyone using those engine mounts and have removed an engine have found the same problem. Mine was the same. I think most people just grind back the two lugs to stop them touching the chassis plate. You could always fit some better quality polyurethane mounts such as these from summit racing.

Regards Dave



luckyp

Original Poster:

6,243 posts

254 months

Sunday 25th February 2007
quotequote all
Thanks guys. I'm reluctant to grind the tabs, just incase they are there to do a job.

Does anyone know if the chassis plate is of 'standard' size, shape and orientation to accept any mounts?

Do like those summit ones though!!

Pete

gtr-gaz

5,281 posts

275 months

Sunday 25th February 2007
quotequote all
luckyp said:


Do like those summit ones though!!

Hey! you've spent enough money already

I had the same problem with my engine mounts. Had to grind the lugs down as mentioned.

steve_d

13,802 posts

287 months

Sunday 25th February 2007
quotequote all
If you use the ones Dave is suggesting you will need to grind a chamfer along the top edge of the mount plate on the chassis.
If you look at the mount picture you can see where the material bends up with the plastic following it. The radius formed at that point will prevent the mount sitting down on the chassis unless you apply the chamfer.

Steve

ditto

614 posts

269 months

Sunday 25th February 2007
quotequote all
I also had the same problem and ground down the lugs

CanAm Dave

939 posts

253 months

Sunday 25th February 2007
quotequote all
steve_d said:
If you use the ones Dave is suggesting you will need to grind a chamfer along the top edge of the mount plate on the chassis.
If you look at the mount picture you can see where the material bends up with the plastic following it. The radius formed at that point will prevent the mount sitting down on the chassis unless you apply the chamfer.

Steve


I found they fitted with out modification. They have a 90° bend. Not a radius. Plus the main bolt hole is slotted which helps when fitting.

Regards Dave

luckyp

Original Poster:

6,243 posts

254 months

Monday 26th February 2007
quotequote all
phone 'Erm...Ted. Is this normal?'

I'll let yer all know.

Pete

luckyp

Original Poster:

6,243 posts

254 months

Monday 26th February 2007
quotequote all
luckyp said:
phone 'Erm...Ted. Is this normal?'

I'll let yer all know.

Pete


Factory - If the lugs interfere, then remove them by 1/4"

Job done.

Thanks for peoples' responses.

Lucky, out.

DHGTR

1,196 posts

272 months

Saturday 30th June 2007
quotequote all
Steve, thanks again, im using the polyurethane type mounts and was wondering what to do with mounts but now i can just chamfer(?) the edges of the chassis plates. cheers

k wright

1,039 posts

288 months

Sunday 1st July 2007
quotequote all
For the mount that your using this is normal. Your right to assume that the lugs are there to limit further twisting of the motor.

As stated above if you fit the urethane mounts you'll need to trim the chassis some.

dfpat10

32 posts

231 months

Tuesday 3rd July 2007
quotequote all
Lucky,

I’ve had the same problem of broken engine mounts before. I’ve seen people use solid plates, chains and other devices to limit motor movement to prevent separating or breaking the mount. I drilled an over sized hole down through the center then drilled and taped another hole to receive a bolt that allowed movement but limited it from breaking the mount. If you want more info I can send you a sketch of this street stock racer info.

David



Edited by dfpat10 on Tuesday 3rd July 04:23

LuckyP

Original Poster:

6,243 posts

254 months

Friday 6th June 2008
quotequote all
Bought a set of the Energy Suspension mounts from Real Steel - from what I can see they are they are the same as those chrome ones from Summit, but with black PU and a zinc passivate.

The top rad that Steve and Dave mentioned isn't an issue, but the weld rad of the side tabs on the underside of the mount dooes foul on the chassis plate.

Did you find that Dave? Is the solution to give that plate a chamfer to allow the mount to drop into place?

Any ideas or alternative mount suggestions welcome.