First daft question
Discussion
I asked myself the same question when the kit arrived. Its because the rivets are in inch measurements. I had to see 3 stores before I found the 3.3 mm's. A 0.1 mm gap each side of the rivet will most likely over time give some slip in the panels, which is not good as they are also a part of the chassis strength. Make sure you buy enough drills, some of the places you will be drilling on the chassis, will take all your balancing skills. I think I broke 10 drills before I was finished..........
What ever you do pay the extra and get some good quality bits. I went for the jobber bits from screwfix whilst they were cheap (50 for a few quid) it was false economy, after a few holes were either blunt or snapped sometimes with a resulting scratch
Good Luck, this is the daunting bit, after the panelling you will be sick of the sight of rivets....I know I was!!!!
Oh also make yourself up a rivet spacing template, (as per Stigs website)
Graham
Good Luck, this is the daunting bit, after the panelling you will be sick of the sight of rivets....I know I was!!!!
Oh also make yourself up a rivet spacing template, (as per Stigs website)
Graham
Edited by Graham-P on Monday 8th January 13:10
I think the amount of rivets the factory say you should use is a bit of a over kill.
The carbon panels in my other car were just held on with 221 sikaflex and few rivets, (and loads of quick clamps as it dried)
More holes more rivets more weight.
More holes weaker chassis
More chances of rust
My 5p worth
Having said that I did chicken out and do my chassis per the factory ha ha
The carbon panels in my other car were just held on with 221 sikaflex and few rivets, (and loads of quick clamps as it dried)
More holes more rivets more weight.
More holes weaker chassis
More chances of rust
My 5p worth
Having said that I did chicken out and do my chassis per the factory ha ha

I was lucky enough to find an ever so helpful funny shaped fella to fix all of my rivets for me and I must say, I did not find this a taxing part of the build in any way, shape or form.
Edited to say: I have been wracking my brains trying to find something useful to say but not actually having built my car I don't really have much hands on experience but one thing that I was advised to do when I was originally going to build the car myself is get an air rivet gun, makes life a lot easier apparently.
Edited to say: I have been wracking my brains trying to find something useful to say but not actually having built my car I don't really have much hands on experience but one thing that I was advised to do when I was originally going to build the car myself is get an air rivet gun, makes life a lot easier apparently.
Edited by GTWayne on Monday 8th January 17:08
Just a few tips. Get a right angled drill, a must and also check you can get the drill into corners before marking-out and drilling panels, or you will find you have holes where it is impossible to drill chassis. Do not pre-drill top of front bulk-head panel as this can only be done after body fit.
Best tip use Stigs website.
Best tip use Stigs website.
GTWayne said:
....get an air rivet gun, makes life a lot easier apparently.
..probably a good idea, though using a hand riveter certainly builds up those firm handshake muscles! Lazy-tong riveters are another alternative.
I used 3.5mm bits - all seemed good though I had problems with rivets on the parts that are bent over the chassis rails as the rivets didn't seem tight enough as couple came slightly loose with the hammering.
Get a step drill too!
Liam
I just bought a couple of packets of 1/8" middle of the road jobber drills from RS. Worked out very well with few breakages and the were the correct size for the 1/8" rivets (it may be they supply 3.3mm rivets now - they are different and it does matter). The only times I've managed to break a drill I've inadvertantly managed to get a bending load on it. The stress reversals on it cause it to fatigue in a few minutes of use. If you use the right feed (push) and speed the drill will last 10 times longer...unfortunately only experience will tell you what this is.
Whilst I'm on the subject: High Speed Steel/Cobalt drills (e.g. RS 365-1263) are pure magic when it comes to going through case hardened steel such as found in socket head bolts or stainless.
Whilst I'm on the subject: High Speed Steel/Cobalt drills (e.g. RS 365-1263) are pure magic when it comes to going through case hardened steel such as found in socket head bolts or stainless.
Worth saying that I found when starting out on the build, you will need quite a few specific bits, eg additional ss bolts etc, drill bits, etc, worst thing was going to places like halfords and having everyone look at you blankly! I found you need to find a GOOD local shop that is a REAL tool shop and somewhere where you can get the real bits and pieces...... otherwise its frustration time.! When I started PISTONHEADS didnt exist so it was 3 calls a day to the factory for advice.
you youngsters dont know how easy it is now! (moan moan old man rants etc)
you youngsters dont know how easy it is now! (moan moan old man rants etc)
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