Where to put the oil temp sender ?
Discussion
Hmmm, good idea though where would be the 'most accurate' point to put the sender?
1. In the lines running from the sump scavange points to the dry sump pump.
2. In the lines running from the dry sump pump to the dry sump tank.
3. In the return line from the tank to the pressure stage of the pump.
4. In the line from the pressure side of the pump to the filter (or in the filter assembly).
5. In the line between the filter & the oil cooler (or in the oil cooler).
6. In the line between the oil cooler that returns to the blanking plate where the filter was mounted.
I was going to opt for mounting it into the blanking plate, or number 6, though that is the point when the oil would be at it's coolest, so is it better to monitor it when it just comes out of the engine instead, i.e. when it is the hotest. Or perhaps, like they do in race cars, both in and out temps are recorded so as to gauge the cooling systems performance!
Cheers,
Pete
p.s. For those that are wondering (I was one until I had it explained!), in the dry sump system, the internal oil pump is removed and the normal galley that originally fed the oil filter is blocked, thus you only need to inject oil in to the system where the filter was (via the normal inlet path), and extract it from the bottom of the sump. The blanking/return plate covers both the in and out holes where the OEM filter mounts are, but, since the internal pump is removed and the pressure line from it blocked no oil will flow backwards into the system, so you just connect up the return line from the oil cooler here.
1. In the lines running from the sump scavange points to the dry sump pump.
2. In the lines running from the dry sump pump to the dry sump tank.
3. In the return line from the tank to the pressure stage of the pump.
4. In the line from the pressure side of the pump to the filter (or in the filter assembly).
5. In the line between the filter & the oil cooler (or in the oil cooler).
6. In the line between the oil cooler that returns to the blanking plate where the filter was mounted.
I was going to opt for mounting it into the blanking plate, or number 6, though that is the point when the oil would be at it's coolest, so is it better to monitor it when it just comes out of the engine instead, i.e. when it is the hotest. Or perhaps, like they do in race cars, both in and out temps are recorded so as to gauge the cooling systems performance!
Cheers,
Pete
p.s. For those that are wondering (I was one until I had it explained!), in the dry sump system, the internal oil pump is removed and the normal galley that originally fed the oil filter is blocked, thus you only need to inject oil in to the system where the filter was (via the normal inlet path), and extract it from the bottom of the sump. The blanking/return plate covers both the in and out holes where the OEM filter mounts are, but, since the internal pump is removed and the pressure line from it blocked no oil will flow backwards into the system, so you just connect up the return line from the oil cooler here.
B1 ECC said:
I have mine in the line from the cooler exit to the main oil gallery (previously oil filter mounting). It's a Petersen in line adapter for the sender, that way the temp you see on the guage is the temp of the oil thats about to enter the engine!
Hmmm, good idea Ian, I should have orderd one of those as well.
Is this the item you have?
www.petersonfluidsys.com/Photos/Itmpprt.jpg
Cheers,
Pete
peterpsg said:
I have mine in the line from the cooler exit to the main oil gallery (previously oil filter mounting). It's a Petersen in line adapter for the sender, that way the temp you see on the guage is the temp of the oil thats about to enter the engine!
Hmmm, good idea Ian, I should have orderd one of those as well.
Is this the item you have?
www.petersonfluidsys.com/Photos/Itmpprt.jpg
Cheers,
Pete
That's the one!
Yeah, it's a hard decision, though the oil's going to get hot in the engine anyway...
The place I'm getting my remote filter (CM/Canton)& related parts (Peterson) from say they usually run 2 sensors either side of the oil cooler and datalog them both, which allows them to compare the temperature drop accross the cooler. They've tried many coolers, including the Mocal/Laminova/Setrap type with the circular core plumbed into the radiator(like UltimaCZ's).
They steered me to a place in the states that does a plate type one, which they said was the best they'd tested, so I contacted them and they suggested a 10 or 13 plate version of this www.crracing.com/custom_built/external_heat.shtml, thought with the 13 plate they thought it'd be usefull to have a proportioning valve www.crracing.com/custom_built/oil_cooler_bypass.shtml, as the oil might overcool on colder days.
The guy in the states also took a look at the Ultima website, and made negative comments about the stock radiators, likening it to the GT40 replica types that he'd been involved in the past, he then pointed out that he could do an all alluminium radiator with the oil cooler built in, www.crracing.com/radiators/late_model_heat.shtml, if I was going to build from scratch and was going to add a dry sump I'd definately consisider it, but I think for my requirements the stock radiator is fine - though a fan upgrade is an option...
So with my dry sump system I'm planning to do the following, with most of the parts on the way already.
1: Remove the oil filter & oil cooler sandwich plate and fit a blank off plate with a single return line. (Peterson)
2: Mount a remote oil filter in the line after the pressure stage of the dry sump pump, but before the oil cooler. (CM/Canton)
3: Replace the standard air type oil cooler with a water system cooled type fed downstream of the filter. (CRRacing/Mocal/Setrap)
4: Mount an inline oil temp sender tap in point 'somewhere' in the system. (Peterson - Cheers Ian)
5: Mount an oil temp guage and sender. (Factory Supplied - Thanks Rich/Ted)
Add to this lot, refitting the transaxle (getting a Quaiffe ATB Diff added), and mounting the shiney new SPA plumbed fire extinguisher system (Cheers Alan), hopefully all ready in time for RAF Marham!!!
ps. I'm not connected to any of the companies I mentioned! But if any of them want to make a donation...
The place I'm getting my remote filter (CM/Canton)& related parts (Peterson) from say they usually run 2 sensors either side of the oil cooler and datalog them both, which allows them to compare the temperature drop accross the cooler. They've tried many coolers, including the Mocal/Laminova/Setrap type with the circular core plumbed into the radiator(like UltimaCZ's).
They steered me to a place in the states that does a plate type one, which they said was the best they'd tested, so I contacted them and they suggested a 10 or 13 plate version of this www.crracing.com/custom_built/external_heat.shtml, thought with the 13 plate they thought it'd be usefull to have a proportioning valve www.crracing.com/custom_built/oil_cooler_bypass.shtml, as the oil might overcool on colder days.
The guy in the states also took a look at the Ultima website, and made negative comments about the stock radiators, likening it to the GT40 replica types that he'd been involved in the past, he then pointed out that he could do an all alluminium radiator with the oil cooler built in, www.crracing.com/radiators/late_model_heat.shtml, if I was going to build from scratch and was going to add a dry sump I'd definately consisider it, but I think for my requirements the stock radiator is fine - though a fan upgrade is an option...
So with my dry sump system I'm planning to do the following, with most of the parts on the way already.
1: Remove the oil filter & oil cooler sandwich plate and fit a blank off plate with a single return line. (Peterson)
2: Mount a remote oil filter in the line after the pressure stage of the dry sump pump, but before the oil cooler. (CM/Canton)
3: Replace the standard air type oil cooler with a water system cooled type fed downstream of the filter. (CRRacing/Mocal/Setrap)
4: Mount an inline oil temp sender tap in point 'somewhere' in the system. (Peterson - Cheers Ian)
5: Mount an oil temp guage and sender. (Factory Supplied - Thanks Rich/Ted)
Add to this lot, refitting the transaxle (getting a Quaiffe ATB Diff added), and mounting the shiney new SPA plumbed fire extinguisher system (Cheers Alan), hopefully all ready in time for RAF Marham!!!
ps. I'm not connected to any of the companies I mentioned! But if any of them want to make a donation...
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