Pacet Profan

[tjb]

I'm considering replacing the standard radiator fans on my Sports with Pacet Thinline Profans and have a couple of questions for anyone who's already done this.

The spec says they draw 10.7 Amps each. Don't know what the std fans draw, but I guess these are more, anyone had problems with this? (particularly with the aircon on)

Do they fit fairly easily or do the brackets/fans have to be altered at all?

Thanks,

Tony

[tjb]

There was definitely words when I posted this topic!

I have a couple of questions for anyone who has fitted Pacet Profans to replace the std radiator fans.

Firstly they draw 10.7 Amps each. Don't know what the standard fans draw but I guess this is more. Has this caused problems? (especially when the aircon is on as well).

Second, how easily do they fit, do the brackets or fans need to be altered at all?

Thanks

[stig]

I replaced my fans with profans. No problems fitting or with draw.

[Chewy]

I have Procet fans fitted to both the radiator and the oil cooler. I can't tell you if they were the Thinline or advise you on the technical details. I can check later for the model number. They were easy to fit, as the mounting holes are identical to the factory fitted fans. Stig may have more details on his GTR website as he fitted Procet fans. I have had no problems with the electrics since fitting them. I do think they helped cooling a little but they were not the miracle cure I was hoping for as the water temp still rises very high when stuck in traffic.

I am too slow at typing - Stig got in there whilst I was typing away with one finger

>> Edited by Chewy on Monday 9th May 11:47

[ultimacz]

Fitting was no problem. Since I have a 100A alternator there was also no problem with draw.

But there is one change: sometimes the idle would be 100-200 rpm lower than normal (w/o AC switched on), but only when the engine is hot. It took me long until I found out the reason: once the Pacet fans are switching on the alternator takes more power from the engine and this reduces idle rpm. Similar to AC.

BTW, just tested my new oil/water heat exchanger and the results are amazing - much more balanced temps throughout all driving conditions, water is almost stuck at 80 deg.C and oil always between 80 and 90 deg. Best investment I ever made into my Ultima...

[Chewy]

Ultimacz - What is the heat exchanger system you have fitted? Did you have problems with temperatures before? I am still looking for a good solution to the problem with high water temps when stationary or in slow moving traffic.
Have you had the side air vents fitted recently and if so have they made much difference. I did have high oil temp when running at high speed but side intakes similar to those on your vehicle seem to have cured this problem but although not yet put to the test I don’t think they will have cured my low speed water problem.

[ultimacz]

Chewy said:

Ultimacz - What is the heat exchanger system you have fitted? Did you have problems with temperatures before? I am still looking for a good solution to the problem with high water temps when stationary or in slow moving traffic. Have you had the side air vents fitted recently and if so have they made much difference. I did have high oil temp when running at high speed but side intakes similar to those on your vehicle seem to have cured this problem but although not yet put to the test I don’t think they will have cured my low speed water problem.

It is a MOCAL unit which is used also in racing applications. Relatively simple to fit - just into the main hose which goes to the radiator. Try to attach a photo:



I had two years of overheat problems, but sometimes also too low temps during highway cruising. This was at times when I still had the original AS 450 HP unit, now I have a much hotter 600HP Dart/Brodix unit, and no overheat at all, stable temps under all conditions. I am not able to say what exactly had the biggest effect, but here is a list of what we have done:
- ceramic coating of exhaust (this is a great thing!)
- heat exchanger, removal of original oil cooler
- side vents
- new thermostat
- new radiator fans + override switch
- override switch on the A/C fan to operate it also when A/C is not switched on
- removal of mesh on air inlets
- full synthetic oil (reduces oil temps)
- Digital lambda sensor which allows to set-up carb correctly under all driving conditions (you would wonder what your carb does if you knew...)
- water wetter (additive to coolant)
- Dart block (has improved cooling and oiling system by design), blue-printed engine with exact tolerances and only top parts used
- fuel re-circulation system, to keep fuel cool

The Reverie side vents are a great thing to feed carb with cold air and have also a second outlet to blow cold air on the engine, at speed. We cut also some more vertical holes into them to improve air flow. Downside was that the oil cooler was now even less in the air stream than before and the Pacet fan which we attached to the oil cooler blew hot air into an already hot engine bay, with the only effect to heat up the fuel tank which was not a pleasant feeling... So the oil cooler had to go and make place for the heat exchanger which I don´t regret, obviously.

Hope this helps...

[Chewy]

Ultimacz -

Thanks for that. Good to hear everything is under control. I shall be taking a closer look at the heat exchanger. I think this would be a good time to look at upgrading my engine as I can't have you guys leaving me behind and I'll need the engine out to fit it.

Thanks

[tuxman]

ultimacz,how does the digital lambda sensor work ,what make is it and what does the carb do when you are using it ,sorry full of questions tonight .simon

[ultimacz]

tuxman said:

ultimacz,how does the digital lambda sensor work ,what make is it and what does the carb do when you are using it ,sorry full of questions tonight .simon

Here a photo of the digital gauge (the bottom one):



from what I know it is from a Canadian company "FJO Racing", comes complete with O2 sensor, computer and digital gauge. Optional even with data logging and laptop connection. I got it through American Speed, Gail was so nice to order it for me and ship it. They seem to have some dealers in US, maybe also in UK? Not cheap but unbelievably precise and reliable (4 or 5 wire system...). Std. analogue gauges (LED) as sold by Summit show nothing but "jumping" colours = totally useless. The accuracy of the digital gauge is +/-0,1 and it really works!
The ideal ratio for modern engines with EFI is 14,7 (air to fuel) but for our highly tuned units with carb it is adviseable to keep it between 12 and 13,5. My carb is a HP type without choke but with removable air bleeds, so I can do the set-up fast and relatively accurate. It also has two powervalves which really helps to keep the ratio at around 12 during hard acceleration. It is also ideal to set-up idle because it is so much more precise compared to the vacuum gauge.
The last problems I have with my carb set-up is during high-speed runs on the highway when the ratio increases to approx. 14, this might be caused by the RAM effect of my Reverie side pods. The other small problem is idle, because I have a rough cam and with A/C switched on it drops really low and the ratio goes up.
Hope that helps,
Peter

[tuxman]

hi peter sounds like a good bit of kit ,can you remember how much it cost ? also the air to fuel ratio is that parts per million (ppm)did you fit the second power valve i have a race demon carb and there is a big brass plug fitted in the secondary chokes the car is very good above 2000 but below it it is crap !cam is pretty wild but would like tame it down a bit .simon

[ultimacz]

tuxman said:

hi peter sounds like a good bit of kit ,can you remember how much it cost ? also the air to fuel ratio is that parts per million (ppm)did you fit the second power valve i have a race demon carb and there is a big brass plug fitted in the secondary chokes the car is very good above 2000 but below it it is crap !cam is pretty wild but would like tame it down a bit .simon

Simon, I think it was between 500 and 700 USD for the whole kit.
Fuel ratio: I don´t know, thought it was parts of air compared to parts of fuel (ideal combustion = 14,7 parts air for one part fuel). My carb is a Holley double pumper, HP type. This comes with a second power valve already fitted, primary and secondary jets are same size then.
Peter