Land Cruiser 70/80/100 series
Discussion
Hi PistonHeads,
Are there many LC owners on here? I've long had a strong interest in all LC models and more recently I've developed a bit more of a hankering for one. I'm particularly interested in the 70/80/100 series. My current "weekend" car isn't really practical for family days out with my young children, so barely gets used. I love the idea of having a "go anywhere" family bus. We enjoy walking, the country side and drive to ROI often to see family where we also enjoy going slightly off the beaten track sometimes. I have ambitions to do some continental Europe driving and one day perhaps driving to north Africa e.g. Morocco. My youngest keeps going on about going camping and having a trusty LC to do this with sounds appealing.
Any owners on here happy to share their ownership experiences/photos/advice etc? I appreciate there's some big differences between 70/80/100 series.
I've been looking in to importing a vehicle from Japan (not my first rodeo doing this) - in order to find a good example. Good examples do seem thin on the ground.
Thanks.
Are there many LC owners on here? I've long had a strong interest in all LC models and more recently I've developed a bit more of a hankering for one. I'm particularly interested in the 70/80/100 series. My current "weekend" car isn't really practical for family days out with my young children, so barely gets used. I love the idea of having a "go anywhere" family bus. We enjoy walking, the country side and drive to ROI often to see family where we also enjoy going slightly off the beaten track sometimes. I have ambitions to do some continental Europe driving and one day perhaps driving to north Africa e.g. Morocco. My youngest keeps going on about going camping and having a trusty LC to do this with sounds appealing.
Any owners on here happy to share their ownership experiences/photos/advice etc? I appreciate there's some big differences between 70/80/100 series.
I've been looking in to importing a vehicle from Japan (not my first rodeo doing this) - in order to find a good example. Good examples do seem thin on the ground.
Thanks.
hidetheelephants said:
You can still buy a new 70 series, importing one will cost you a fortune though between shipping costs and getting it through emissions tests.
I have been looking in to this. I'm leaning more towards an 80/100 series. The 80 especially appeals to me a lot. I like the 90s era styling. The 100 seems to be the more sensible choice with more modern comfort and safety etc...
Finding a good 100 that hasn't rotted is going to take some doing, i gave up, look closely underneath and shudder.
80s are getting very old now, unless you have considerable mechanical skills will cost a lot to keep them up to scratch, overpriced too via scene tax.
70 series is nostalgia really, imagine a properly bolted together Defender but with a reliable engine.
Best overall model in my humble was the 120 series or early 150 series still with the 3.0 litre lump but the 150 gains a DPF, 120 can be had with 3 petrol engines in Japan, the 2.7 you wouldn't want, the 4.0 litre V6 was also supplied in UK versions but they also came with the 3.4 V6 as found in 90 series UK Colorados, the 3.4 is a gem for petrol, but the 3.0 litre 1KD turbo Diesel is the best of the lot IMHO, simple enough very reliable, cambelt driven but the belt is a 1 hour DIY job with basic tools.
I've had 3 Lcs with the 3.0 litre turboDiesel, a 70 series, Hilux and the 120 i recently sold on, and a Collie with the 3.4 petrol, none ever let me down, the only mechanical failure of any was the alternator packed up on the 120 when it was 17 years old, still didn't break down cost me £120ish for a recon and a couple of hours to fit.
120 with auto box is a lovely drive, faster than you might think, Tardis like inside yet not overwide like so many other vehicles, rear jump seats unclip in seconds which leaves it as a 5 seater with a boot as big as a van.
Easy DIY maintenance too.
Importing your own whichever model you go for is a very good start, its only really rust that kills Cruisers, so if you get a good one get rustproofing.
80s are getting very old now, unless you have considerable mechanical skills will cost a lot to keep them up to scratch, overpriced too via scene tax.
70 series is nostalgia really, imagine a properly bolted together Defender but with a reliable engine.
Best overall model in my humble was the 120 series or early 150 series still with the 3.0 litre lump but the 150 gains a DPF, 120 can be had with 3 petrol engines in Japan, the 2.7 you wouldn't want, the 4.0 litre V6 was also supplied in UK versions but they also came with the 3.4 V6 as found in 90 series UK Colorados, the 3.4 is a gem for petrol, but the 3.0 litre 1KD turbo Diesel is the best of the lot IMHO, simple enough very reliable, cambelt driven but the belt is a 1 hour DIY job with basic tools.
I've had 3 Lcs with the 3.0 litre turboDiesel, a 70 series, Hilux and the 120 i recently sold on, and a Collie with the 3.4 petrol, none ever let me down, the only mechanical failure of any was the alternator packed up on the 120 when it was 17 years old, still didn't break down cost me £120ish for a recon and a couple of hours to fit.
120 with auto box is a lovely drive, faster than you might think, Tardis like inside yet not overwide like so many other vehicles, rear jump seats unclip in seconds which leaves it as a 5 seater with a boot as big as a van.
Easy DIY maintenance too.
Importing your own whichever model you go for is a very good start, its only really rust that kills Cruisers, so if you get a good one get rustproofing.
Smint said:
Finding a good 100 that hasn't rotted is going to take some doing, i gave up, look closely underneath and shudder.
80s are getting very old now, unless you have considerable mechanical skills will cost a lot to keep them up to scratch, overpriced too via scene tax.
70 series is nostalgia really, imagine a properly bolted together Defender but with a reliable engine.
Best overall model in my humble was the 120 series or early 150 series still with the 3.0 litre lump but the 150 gains a DPF, 120 can be had with 3 petrol engines in Japan, the 2.7 you wouldn't want, the 4.0 litre V6 was also supplied in UK versions but they also came with the 3.4 V6 as found in 90 series UK Colorados, the 3.4 is a gem for petrol, but the 3.0 litre 1KD turbo Diesel is the best of the lot IMHO, simple enough very reliable, cambelt driven but the belt is a 1 hour DIY job with basic tools.
I've had 3 Lcs with the 3.0 litre turboDiesel, a 70 series, Hilux and the 120 i recently sold on, and a Collie with the 3.4 petrol, none ever let me down, the only mechanical failure of any was the alternator packed up on the 120 when it was 17 years old, still didn't break down cost me £120ish for a recon and a couple of hours to fit.
120 with auto box is a lovely drive, faster than you might think, Tardis like inside yet not overwide like so many other vehicles, rear jump seats unclip in seconds which leaves it as a 5 seater with a boot as big as a van.
Easy DIY maintenance too.
Importing your own whichever model you go for is a very good start, its only really rust that kills Cruisers, so if you get a good one get rustproofing.
Hi Smint,80s are getting very old now, unless you have considerable mechanical skills will cost a lot to keep them up to scratch, overpriced too via scene tax.
70 series is nostalgia really, imagine a properly bolted together Defender but with a reliable engine.
Best overall model in my humble was the 120 series or early 150 series still with the 3.0 litre lump but the 150 gains a DPF, 120 can be had with 3 petrol engines in Japan, the 2.7 you wouldn't want, the 4.0 litre V6 was also supplied in UK versions but they also came with the 3.4 V6 as found in 90 series UK Colorados, the 3.4 is a gem for petrol, but the 3.0 litre 1KD turbo Diesel is the best of the lot IMHO, simple enough very reliable, cambelt driven but the belt is a 1 hour DIY job with basic tools.
I've had 3 Lcs with the 3.0 litre turboDiesel, a 70 series, Hilux and the 120 i recently sold on, and a Collie with the 3.4 petrol, none ever let me down, the only mechanical failure of any was the alternator packed up on the 120 when it was 17 years old, still didn't break down cost me £120ish for a recon and a couple of hours to fit.
120 with auto box is a lovely drive, faster than you might think, Tardis like inside yet not overwide like so many other vehicles, rear jump seats unclip in seconds which leaves it as a 5 seater with a boot as big as a van.
Easy DIY maintenance too.
Importing your own whichever model you go for is a very good start, its only really rust that kills Cruisers, so if you get a good one get rustproofing.
Thanks for your reply. I'd sort of written off the "Prado" models but what you're saying does make a lot of sense- some food for thought and I'd certainly save a chunk of money. Thanks for the info re engines - for me it has to be a diesel so I get some form of acceptable fuel economy.
If only LR made reliable vehicles....
My Colorado is a rusty old beast, mechanically pretty sound and it’s something you can drive anywhere and not worry about it.
We went out for a few beers and something to eat last night in town, picked up 4 others on the way out and then dumped it in a car park and off to collect it shortly.
In the last 2 years it’s had an alternator, a minor water leak and a set of 4x Falken Wildpeaks.
And about £2000 in welding
https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/results?regis...
We went out for a few beers and something to eat last night in town, picked up 4 others on the way out and then dumped it in a car park and off to collect it shortly.
In the last 2 years it’s had an alternator, a minor water leak and a set of 4x Falken Wildpeaks.
And about £2000 in welding
https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/results?regis...
turbomoggie said:
Hi Smint,
Thanks for your reply. I'd sort of written off the "Prado" models but what you're saying does make a lot of sense- some food for thought and I'd certainly save a chunk of money. Thanks for the info re engines - for me it has to be a diesel so I get some form of acceptable fuel economy.
If only LR made reliable vehicles....
Remember all 120s regd after March 2006 go into the top VED band, apparently there's a handful of 2009 regd 120 Diesels that just slipped under top band, and the 150 series Diesel also goes under top band but with the 150 you gain a DPF.Thanks for your reply. I'd sort of written off the "Prado" models but what you're saying does make a lot of sense- some food for thought and I'd certainly save a chunk of money. Thanks for the info re engines - for me it has to be a diesel so I get some form of acceptable fuel economy.
If only LR made reliable vehicles....
Grey imports should avoid the very top band but you may not benefit from the remarkably cheap insurance UK supplied LC's benefit from but if you get a good rust free one to start with they are a stonkingly long lived bomb proof motor.
It might be worth having a look under a few examples locally for sale to see just how bad they can rust if supplied here from new, i was lucky with my 120, bought it 10 years previous in excellent condition but its been an annual expedition underneath to keep it that way, worth it though my work colleague who bought it is even more anal about taking care of his motors, if thats possible, is chuffed to bits with it, he looked at many including a 2011 Shogun that had seen extensive welding.
Problem areas are chassis especially at rear, rear axle (live axle), inner sills slide under and check the sills at each end, they take heavy weathering and can perforate badly.
Ed Boon, thats a lovely Collie, i had one in the same colour but with the 3.4 V6 lump, that could embarrass quite a few fast cars in the traffic light sprint, hadn't intended to sell it but the 120 we bought popped up one morning and well maybe fate lent a hand because without a moment's hesitation we were in her indoor's car and drove 75 miles to view, one look underneath and it was bought on the spot.
You probably know the only weak spot on the Collie, front lower ball joints?
I think they suffer a little from their own mythology. Some people seem to think l they can abuse them and neglect them and it will be fine because it's a Land Cruiser
A mate of mine has a really lovely 80 series and has had it for 25+ years but, make no mistake, it's taken a lot of money and effort to keep it healthy and nice. Usual stuff needs replacing over the years, shockers, clutches, brakes, exhausts etc. He had to replace the steering rack a few years ago, it's had a gearbox rebuild and a diff replaced. It's had various bits of welding done to it over the years. He does the oil and filters every 6000 miles and cleans it properly and waxoyls it and just generally looks after it.
That's the kind of LC I'd want to buy but they're hard to find - and he's not selling
A mate of mine has a really lovely 80 series and has had it for 25+ years but, make no mistake, it's taken a lot of money and effort to keep it healthy and nice. Usual stuff needs replacing over the years, shockers, clutches, brakes, exhausts etc. He had to replace the steering rack a few years ago, it's had a gearbox rebuild and a diff replaced. It's had various bits of welding done to it over the years. He does the oil and filters every 6000 miles and cleans it properly and waxoyls it and just generally looks after it.
That's the kind of LC I'd want to buy but they're hard to find - and he's not selling
This looks nice, but you'd have to really want it!
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202607204...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202607204...
Lefty said:
Rust rust rust
I looked at several 80's, 100's and 200's, admittedly up here in Scotland and every one of them was scabby AF.
I'd say you're best to import from Japan or Australia but make sure you get get plenty of pictures of the underneath!
Yeah from what I've read this seems to be their main killer. Importing a nice one seems to be the way to go and then getting it sealed/protected underneath to keep it nice. I looked at several 80's, 100's and 200's, admittedly up here in Scotland and every one of them was scabby AF.
I'd say you're best to import from Japan or Australia but make sure you get get plenty of pictures of the underneath!
Ed Boon II said:
My Colorado is a rusty old beast, mechanically pretty sound and it s something you can drive anywhere and not worry about it.
We went out for a few beers and something to eat last night in town, picked up 4 others on the way out and then dumped it in a car park and off to collect it shortly.
In the last 2 years it s had an alternator, a minor water leak and a set of 4x Falken Wildpeaks.
And about £2000 in welding
https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/results?regis...
What a lovely beast. The Colorado proportions and styling are very nice. Have you undersealed in some way to stop the remaining rust from worsening? We went out for a few beers and something to eat last night in town, picked up 4 others on the way out and then dumped it in a car park and off to collect it shortly.
In the last 2 years it s had an alternator, a minor water leak and a set of 4x Falken Wildpeaks.
And about £2000 in welding
https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/results?regis...
Smint said:
Remember all 120s regd after March 2006 go into the top VED band, apparently there's a handful of 2009 regd 120 Diesels that just slipped under top band, and the 150 series Diesel also goes under top band but with the 150 you gain a DPF.
Grey imports should avoid the very top band but you may not benefit from the remarkably cheap insurance UK supplied LC's benefit from but if you get a good rust free one to start with they are a stonkingly long lived bomb proof motor.
It might be worth having a look under a few examples locally for sale to see just how bad they can rust if supplied here from new, i was lucky with my 120, bought it 10 years previous in excellent condition but its been an annual expedition underneath to keep it that way, worth it though my work colleague who bought it is even more anal about taking care of his motors, if thats possible, is chuffed to bits with it, he looked at many including a 2011 Shogun that had seen extensive welding.
Problem areas are chassis especially at rear, rear axle (live axle), inner sills slide under and check the sills at each end, they take heavy weathering and can perforate badly.
Ed Boon, thats a lovely Collie, i had one in the same colour but with the 3.4 V6 lump, that could embarrass quite a few fast cars in the traffic light sprint, hadn't intended to sell it but the 120 we bought popped up one morning and well maybe fate lent a hand because without a moment's hesitation we were in her indoor's car and drove 75 miles to view, one look underneath and it was bought on the spot.
You probably know the only weak spot on the Collie, front lower ball joints?
Thanks for the advice, the 120s seem appealing as a more affordable first step in to LC ownership. I may view a few UK cars and take a mechanic with me to give an opinion on the rust/corrosion. Grey imports should avoid the very top band but you may not benefit from the remarkably cheap insurance UK supplied LC's benefit from but if you get a good rust free one to start with they are a stonkingly long lived bomb proof motor.
It might be worth having a look under a few examples locally for sale to see just how bad they can rust if supplied here from new, i was lucky with my 120, bought it 10 years previous in excellent condition but its been an annual expedition underneath to keep it that way, worth it though my work colleague who bought it is even more anal about taking care of his motors, if thats possible, is chuffed to bits with it, he looked at many including a 2011 Shogun that had seen extensive welding.
Problem areas are chassis especially at rear, rear axle (live axle), inner sills slide under and check the sills at each end, they take heavy weathering and can perforate badly.
Ed Boon, thats a lovely Collie, i had one in the same colour but with the 3.4 V6 lump, that could embarrass quite a few fast cars in the traffic light sprint, hadn't intended to sell it but the 120 we bought popped up one morning and well maybe fate lent a hand because without a moment's hesitation we were in her indoor's car and drove 75 miles to view, one look underneath and it was bought on the spot.
You probably know the only weak spot on the Collie, front lower ball joints?
100SRV said:
500,000 miles in 300TDi Defender.
Service intervals of 6000 miles for oil and filters.
I am tempted! LR ownership seems to go one of 2 very opposite ways, so it seems. There's many LR specialists out there and a lot of mechanics that can work on them, plentiful parts - all of which does appeal. Occasionally I have a look at a discovery of some era but on researching there seems to be a lot of bad ownership experiences which sways me back to the idea of LC ownership Service intervals of 6000 miles for oil and filters.
turbomoggie said:
I am tempted! LR ownership seems to go one of 2 very opposite ways, so it seems. There's many LR specialists out there and a lot of mechanics that can work on them, plentiful parts - all of which does appeal. Occasionally I have a look at a discovery of some era but on researching there seems to be a lot of bad ownership experiences which sways me back to the idea of LC ownership
Conversely I've considered Land cruisers from either the 40 or 70 series but I know Land Rovers well and spares are easily available so my head talked me out of it :-)Don't know why this popped up on my youtube feed, unusually good 53 plate 100 series going through Anglia Auctions, 150k miles very good MOT history no mention of corrosion other than brake pipes, sold at over £12k i think, the sound isn't best.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZT_GfcagDzI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZT_GfcagDzI
I had 8 LR products before getting my first 80 series 20 years ago and never looked back. Had a UK 80 series- the best of the bunch was a 93 12v auto - which was phenomenal offroad and overland and ridiculously reliable. The day I realised how different the landcruiser was was undoing an M4 bolt on the very front of the chassis (undoing the retractable radiator blind mount) and the bolt just undid- unlike all the LR products which would have been ground off.
Now have a v8 100 series import, which has done a LOT of miles offroad, but at 80k miles is absolutely mint, no rust and everything works......Just thinking about selling it actually....
Now have a v8 100 series import, which has done a LOT of miles offroad, but at 80k miles is absolutely mint, no rust and everything works......Just thinking about selling it actually....
PugwasHDJ80 said:
I had 8 LR products before getting my first 80 series 20 years ago and never looked back. Had a UK 80 series- the best of the bunch was a 93 12v auto - which was phenomenal offroad and overland and ridiculously reliable. The day I realised how different the landcruiser was was undoing an M4 bolt on the very front of the chassis (undoing the retractable radiator blind mount) and the bolt just undid- unlike all the LR products which would have been ground off.
Now have a v8 100 series import, which has done a LOT of miles offroad, but at 80k miles is absolutely mint, no rust and everything works......Just thinking about selling it actually....
What are you thinking of replacing your 100 series with?Now have a v8 100 series import, which has done a LOT of miles offroad, but at 80k miles is absolutely mint, no rust and everything works......Just thinking about selling it actually....
Any photos?
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