2003 LWB Pajero / Shogun
Discussion
I used to have a pajero, 1996 LWB and a 1998 Swb. Both were just great and the only real problem was a starter motor.
Anyway
I now live up a mountain and because I have just blown the budget by buying a 19bed property at the top of the mountain, I am looking at buying a 2003 LWB Pajero. It has done moon miles but looks tidy.
What should I know? What should I look out for?
Your help is appreciated!
Anyway
I now live up a mountain and because I have just blown the budget by buying a 19bed property at the top of the mountain, I am looking at buying a 2003 LWB Pajero. It has done moon miles but looks tidy.
What should I know? What should I look out for?
Your help is appreciated!
ker. Makes me laugh every time.
Rust, rust and more rust. Sills and rear arches in particular, but more or less anywhere.
The Achilles heel of the Mk3 Shogun 2000-2006 is the fuel pump. The fuel filler and breather pipes are In the rear os wheelarch and rot through. The rust drops into the tank, which and gets into the high pressure fuel pump completely knackering it. A recon pump is £1500+ and a lot of cars are scrapped because of this.
The MK4 shoguns suffer to a lesser degree and the cost of a pump for one of those is about £300.
If you go to look at one, look behind the rear os wheelarch liner and make sure the fuel filler pipes and the tank itself are in good order. Any stalling or running problems with the car are often because the fuel pump I'd on its way out.
Get a good one, and they are great, if a little agricultural sounding. I read a post from a guy in Ukraine saying that they seldom come for sale over there with less than 500,000 km on, so don't let mileage put you off if everything else is ok.
I ran a 2004 SWB model for over 6 years and only sold it a couple of months ago. Other than routine maintenance and a new clutch at 115,000miles, it had no mechanical problems, however, I had to completely rebuild the rear wheel arches and patch the sills.
The Achilles heel of the Mk3 Shogun 2000-2006 is the fuel pump. The fuel filler and breather pipes are In the rear os wheelarch and rot through. The rust drops into the tank, which and gets into the high pressure fuel pump completely knackering it. A recon pump is £1500+ and a lot of cars are scrapped because of this.
The MK4 shoguns suffer to a lesser degree and the cost of a pump for one of those is about £300.
If you go to look at one, look behind the rear os wheelarch liner and make sure the fuel filler pipes and the tank itself are in good order. Any stalling or running problems with the car are often because the fuel pump I'd on its way out.
Get a good one, and they are great, if a little agricultural sounding. I read a post from a guy in Ukraine saying that they seldom come for sale over there with less than 500,000 km on, so don't let mileage put you off if everything else is ok.
I ran a 2004 SWB model for over 6 years and only sold it a couple of months ago. Other than routine maintenance and a new clutch at 115,000miles, it had no mechanical problems, however, I had to completely rebuild the rear wheel arches and patch the sills.
Edited by sparkythecat on Sunday 16th January 13:22
sparkythecat said:
Rust, rust and more rust. Sills and rear arches in particular, but more or less anywhere.
The Achilles heel of the Mk3 Shogun 2000-2006 is the fuel pump. The fuel filler and breather pipes are In the rear os wheelarch and rot through. The rust drops into the tank, which and gets into the high pressure fuel pump completely knackering it. A recon pump is £1500+ and a lot of cars are scrapped because of this.
The MK4 shoguns suffer to a lesser degree and the cost of a pump for one of those is about £300.
If you go to look at one, look behind the rear os wheelarch liner and make sure the fuel filler pipes and the tank itself are in good order. Any stalling or running problems with the car are often because the fuel pump I'd on its way out.
Get a good one, and they are great, if a little agricultural sounding. I read a post from a guy in Ukraine saying that they seldom come for sale over there with less than 500,000 km on, so don't let mileage put you off if everything else is ok.
I ran a 2004 SWB model for over 6 years and only sold it a couple of months ago. Other than routine maintenance and a new clutch at 115,000miles, it had no mechanical problems, however, I had to completely rebuild the rear wheel arches and patch the sills.
Mega helpful Sparky. The model I am looking at is a 3.2 diesel. Do you know if they have the fuel tank rust issues? The Achilles heel of the Mk3 Shogun 2000-2006 is the fuel pump. The fuel filler and breather pipes are In the rear os wheelarch and rot through. The rust drops into the tank, which and gets into the high pressure fuel pump completely knackering it. A recon pump is £1500+ and a lot of cars are scrapped because of this.
The MK4 shoguns suffer to a lesser degree and the cost of a pump for one of those is about £300.
If you go to look at one, look behind the rear os wheelarch liner and make sure the fuel filler pipes and the tank itself are in good order. Any stalling or running problems with the car are often because the fuel pump I'd on its way out.
Get a good one, and they are great, if a little agricultural sounding. I read a post from a guy in Ukraine saying that they seldom come for sale over there with less than 500,000 km on, so don't let mileage put you off if everything else is ok.
I ran a 2004 SWB model for over 6 years and only sold it a couple of months ago. Other than routine maintenance and a new clutch at 115,000miles, it had no mechanical problems, however, I had to completely rebuild the rear wheel arches and patch the sills.
Edited by sparkythecat on Sunday 16th January 13:22
If you enjoyed your 1990s Pajero, you could consider a Hyundai Terracan which was really another manifestation of the same vehicle, which was made until 2009.
All the running gear and technology is Mitsubishi, Hyundai just added their own bodywork mods
https://www.autoevolution.com/hyundai/terracan/
All the running gear and technology is Mitsubishi, Hyundai just added their own bodywork mods
https://www.autoevolution.com/hyundai/terracan/
Like others have said the fuel filler neck and fuel pump going are the main problems with them, I had one for a bit a few years ago and it had a few issues, sticky callipers, timing chain guides, an unfindable air con leak, the 4 wheel drive system could be a bit funny, finally the fuel pump going killed it off, a friend had a mk4 and had issues with the brake callipers and the DPF but it was otherwise ok.
If you get a good one they’re pretty reliable but from personal experience with a few different 4x4s I’d pay the extra for a Landcruiser, to be honest I had less issues with an L322 Range Rover than I did my Shogun so make of that what you will.
The MK2 ones are bulletproof though, I’d avoid the mk3.
If you get a good one they’re pretty reliable but from personal experience with a few different 4x4s I’d pay the extra for a Landcruiser, to be honest I had less issues with an L322 Range Rover than I did my Shogun so make of that what you will.
The MK2 ones are bulletproof though, I’d avoid the mk3.
I had a 54 plate LWB mk3 shogun, and had a few of the problems mentioned, eg the sticking brake callipers, but none of the other problems listed. Auto gear box needed all its sensors swapping about a week after I bought it at about £600, due to the dreaded transmission flashing lights !
Best advice I was given was to keep the mud from the arches, either run fingers between the metal work and the arch liners, or on the drivers side where the fule filler is periodically take it out and give it a good clean of all mud / debris.
Also keep an eye of the front drain points, make sure they are cleaned out as well.
A 2003 model should have a locking rear diff which is good, make sure its working, mine had the traction control which is not so good (personally I though it rubbish), so I had a selectable cut out switch for the TC and had a locking rear diff fitted instead.
Oh and they have an odd habit of, if you splash through a puddle, even fairly small ones it just covers the front windscreen.
Air con leak is common, its the aluminium air con pipe goes to the rear and has a mild steel bracket holding it in place, the two metals react and the softer aluminium eventually holes itself and hence all the AC no longer works.
Best advice I was given was to keep the mud from the arches, either run fingers between the metal work and the arch liners, or on the drivers side where the fule filler is periodically take it out and give it a good clean of all mud / debris.
Also keep an eye of the front drain points, make sure they are cleaned out as well.
A 2003 model should have a locking rear diff which is good, make sure its working, mine had the traction control which is not so good (personally I though it rubbish), so I had a selectable cut out switch for the TC and had a locking rear diff fitted instead.
Oh and they have an odd habit of, if you splash through a puddle, even fairly small ones it just covers the front windscreen.
Air con leak is common, its the aluminium air con pipe goes to the rear and has a mild steel bracket holding it in place, the two metals react and the softer aluminium eventually holes itself and hence all the AC no longer works.
Edited by richs2891 on Monday 17th January 15:30
Gentlemen, Thank you for all your kind advice.
I went to see the vehicle but the owner didn’t show up. I was a little pissy as I had driven 130km to see it. He has since sent me a n apology.
Aaanyway! I found a nice second hand dealer and I have bought a 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander. It will be my 7th (perhaps 8th) Mitsubishi so I must be an addict.
I went to see the vehicle but the owner didn’t show up. I was a little pissy as I had driven 130km to see it. He has since sent me a n apology.
Aaanyway! I found a nice second hand dealer and I have bought a 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander. It will be my 7th (perhaps 8th) Mitsubishi so I must be an addict.
Well, this was a timely post - going to look at a 53 plate LWB Diesel Shogun this weekend so more clued up what to look for.
Seller's asking £2000 and will put it through the MOT first.
Last MOT was in Feb 2001 (so only just run out), which had these advisories:
Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):
Thanks
Seller's asking £2000 and will put it through the MOT first.
Last MOT was in Feb 2001 (so only just run out), which had these advisories:
Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):
- Nearside Headlamp reflector slightly defective (4.1.1 (b) (i))
- Offside Headlamp reflector slightly defective (4.1.1 (b) (i))
- Corrosion in Nearside rear and offside Wheel Arches Both sides
- Towbar Electrical Socket Corroded
Thanks
I’ve used Milner for parts when I had a Shogun and I’ve used them for both Landcruisers I’ve owned and never had any problems, I tend to use Roughtrax now as they seem to have really good quality parts but think they’re Toyota only, reckoned Milners for a Shogun though parts were ok and turned up promptly.
The Mitsubishi Pajero Long Wheelbase SUV is a triumph of engineering that has been put to the test time and time again in epic off-road races such as the Dakar Rally. The Pajero LWB has proven that no matter where you go and what you put in front of your Pajero it will always conquer even the harshest of terrain. Click here for more details: 2014 jeep grand cherokee srt review
Update.
Outlander purchase.
This car has broken my love of mushybushies.
Just a big bag of nope. Water leaks - loads of them. The worst ride and road manners. I was surprised to find it is a VW engine. It is a pig. Sod all power, what power is delivered in such a narrow band that you are always stirring the box to find some power. The rest is just niggly.
Really Really wish I had got a poonjero…
Outlander purchase.
This car has broken my love of mushybushies.
Just a big bag of nope. Water leaks - loads of them. The worst ride and road manners. I was surprised to find it is a VW engine. It is a pig. Sod all power, what power is delivered in such a narrow band that you are always stirring the box to find some power. The rest is just niggly.
Really Really wish I had got a poonjero…
If you're looking for wheels and tires near me, I'd recommend checking local shops or online platforms that offer specialized off-road options. Ensure they have a good selection for the 2003 Pajero/Shogun to handle various terrains and conditions. Websites like Milner Off-Road or Japanese 4x4 Parts might be helpful, as well as local classifieds and forums for personal recommendations. Happy off-roading!
sparkythecat said:
Rust, rust and more rust. Sills and rear arches in particular, but more or less anywhere.
The Achilles heel of the Mk3 Shogun 2000-2006 is the fuel pump. The fuel filler and breather pipes are In the rear os wheelarch and rot through. The rust drops into the tank, which and gets into the high pressure fuel pump completely knackering it. A recon pump is £1500+ and a lot of cars are scrapped because of this.
The MK4 shoguns suffer to a lesser degree and the cost of a pump for one of those is about £300.
If you go to look at one, look behind the rear os wheelarch liner and make sure the fuel filler pipes and the tank itself are in good order. Any stalling or running problems with the car are often because the fuel pump I'd on its way out.
Get a good one, and they are great, if a little agricultural sounding. I read a post from a guy in Ukraine saying that they seldom come for sale over there with less than 500,000 km on, so don't let mileage put you off if everything else is ok.
I ran a 2004 SWB model for over 6 years and only sold it a couple of months ago. Other than routine maintenance and a new clutch at 115,000miles, it had no mechanical problems, however, I had to completely rebuild the rear wheel arches and patch the sills.
Excellent adviceThe Achilles heel of the Mk3 Shogun 2000-2006 is the fuel pump. The fuel filler and breather pipes are In the rear os wheelarch and rot through. The rust drops into the tank, which and gets into the high pressure fuel pump completely knackering it. A recon pump is £1500+ and a lot of cars are scrapped because of this.
The MK4 shoguns suffer to a lesser degree and the cost of a pump for one of those is about £300.
If you go to look at one, look behind the rear os wheelarch liner and make sure the fuel filler pipes and the tank itself are in good order. Any stalling or running problems with the car are often because the fuel pump I'd on its way out.
Get a good one, and they are great, if a little agricultural sounding. I read a post from a guy in Ukraine saying that they seldom come for sale over there with less than 500,000 km on, so don't let mileage put you off if everything else is ok.
I ran a 2004 SWB model for over 6 years and only sold it a couple of months ago. Other than routine maintenance and a new clutch at 115,000miles, it had no mechanical problems, however, I had to completely rebuild the rear wheel arches and patch the sills.
Edited by sparkythecat on Sunday 16th January 13:22
sparkythecat said:
You were unlucky to buy one with the VW engine as they were only sold for a very limited period and were quickly superceded by the 2.2 Ford PSA engine which is in the Freelander 2 and is a much better engine.
Missed this first time around.Agree completely, i was still driving car transporters at the time and those VW engined Outlanders were unbelievably easy to stall making loading an unpleasant experience (this lack of torque is shared by many 4x4s with poor/small engines, often requiring low range if fitted to be selected to load up), the 2.2 engine is a different beast altogether.
Not a bad car with the bigger engine, also available in PSA colours as Peug 4007 and Citroen C Crosser.
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