Jeep WK; educate me
Discussion
So, I took the advice of several people on this forum and acquired a jeep WK to go adventuring in.
so far I am quite happy with it, 215 diesel horsepower should make short work of steep scottish mountain roads and tracks, and its nice have heated seats etc
however, i have found a couple of (hopefully) minor issues with it;
- after first start up it judders when going around corners as if the centre diff is locked up. this goes away after 30 seconds or so of driving and is then fine for the rest of the journey; transmission / transfer fluid level too low?
- the manual override has worked only once in the last 5 days of use despite trying it every time i drive it; I've read it could be grotty electrical contacts, but maybe related to the above?
- backlight behind heater control is out on the right hand side; a common problem I think and a bit of a faff to sort out so just leave it as is?
- putting it in low range means centre diff is permanently locked which makes manoeuvring on hard surfaces all but impossible; I think this is just the way the system works so nothing can be done?
other than that im happy with it, (almost) all the gadgets work and it drives very nicely
oh and it has the 18" wheels from the overland model on it, recently refurbished. I don't really care about having the bigger wheels so I have been thinking I will sell the 18's and acquire some standard 17" wheels to recoup some money, but is this worth doing or will I pay just as much for a set of the smaller wheels?
so far I am quite happy with it, 215 diesel horsepower should make short work of steep scottish mountain roads and tracks, and its nice have heated seats etc
however, i have found a couple of (hopefully) minor issues with it;
- after first start up it judders when going around corners as if the centre diff is locked up. this goes away after 30 seconds or so of driving and is then fine for the rest of the journey; transmission / transfer fluid level too low?
- the manual override has worked only once in the last 5 days of use despite trying it every time i drive it; I've read it could be grotty electrical contacts, but maybe related to the above?
- backlight behind heater control is out on the right hand side; a common problem I think and a bit of a faff to sort out so just leave it as is?
- putting it in low range means centre diff is permanently locked which makes manoeuvring on hard surfaces all but impossible; I think this is just the way the system works so nothing can be done?
other than that im happy with it, (almost) all the gadgets work and it drives very nicely
oh and it has the 18" wheels from the overland model on it, recently refurbished. I don't really care about having the bigger wheels so I have been thinking I will sell the 18's and acquire some standard 17" wheels to recoup some money, but is this worth doing or will I pay just as much for a set of the smaller wheels?
Edited by deadtom on Friday 8th June 19:37
I can only answer one question in this but do not drive it on a paved surface in low range. It will damage or break the transfer case/diff lock. It is only for slippy surfaces.
Jeeps had a few different 4x4 configurations. If you give a good search on google it will tell you what is in your particular model. e.g I used to own an XJ. It could have two different options (I think selectrac and Commandtrac) cant remember now. One had two modes: 2wd and 4Wd via viscose coupling. Mine had 2wd, 4wd full time (this was through viscose coupling and could be used on the road) and 4WD part time. (This could only be used on slippery surfaces as it used a central diff lock.) I cant remember if that's the right way round!
PS you have rekindled my wish to own an XJ again!
Jeeps had a few different 4x4 configurations. If you give a good search on google it will tell you what is in your particular model. e.g I used to own an XJ. It could have two different options (I think selectrac and Commandtrac) cant remember now. One had two modes: 2wd and 4Wd via viscose coupling. Mine had 2wd, 4wd full time (this was through viscose coupling and could be used on the road) and 4WD part time. (This could only be used on slippery surfaces as it used a central diff lock.) I cant remember if that's the right way round!
PS you have rekindled my wish to own an XJ again!
- after first start up it judders when going around corners as if the centre diff is locked up. this goes away after 30 seconds or so of driving and is then fine for the rest of the journey; transmission / transfer fluid level too low?
If its got a diffs similar to my WJ, I get this sometimes (front mostly, not the centre). They call it crabbing I believe.
Ive read its the diff trying to lock, as the diff oil isn't warmed up / viscousity isnt low enough, when you first get going. Adding a touch more diff additive may/should help.
Actually, if you have any doubts as to the last diff oil cahnges, get them done asap. Cheaper than ruined diffs !
Also, the battery, a weak one will throw up all sorts of problems, if in doubt, get a new Bosch S5 from Euro carparts after their daily discount ! Mines going 6 years now and still strong.
Im sure the pro's will be along soon to offer you more authoritve advice. Good luck with the WK, Im thinking of one to replace my WJ in the future.
If its got a diffs similar to my WJ, I get this sometimes (front mostly, not the centre). They call it crabbing I believe.
Ive read its the diff trying to lock, as the diff oil isn't warmed up / viscousity isnt low enough, when you first get going. Adding a touch more diff additive may/should help.
Actually, if you have any doubts as to the last diff oil cahnges, get them done asap. Cheaper than ruined diffs !
Also, the battery, a weak one will throw up all sorts of problems, if in doubt, get a new Bosch S5 from Euro carparts after their daily discount ! Mines going 6 years now and still strong.
Im sure the pro's will be along soon to offer you more authoritve advice. Good luck with the WK, Im thinking of one to replace my WJ in the future.
WK is permanent 4wd so will be a bit 'crabby' at low speeds (front diff), especially when oils/fluids are cold. Recommend oil/fluid changes all round if no records. Cost me about £600 for a full service with all fluids changed. Other than that the front ball joints have a tendency to knock, also about £600 to rectify.
Probably not worth changing the wheels, you are unlikely to get much (if any) more for the 18s over the 17s. Could look at it when you need to change the tyres though.
Enjoy it!
Probably not worth changing the wheels, you are unlikely to get much (if any) more for the 18s over the 17s. Could look at it when you need to change the tyres though.
Enjoy it!
With regards to the ball joints, alot of garages will just replace the control arm as it saves effort, but you can have the joints/ bushes replaced. It saved me a fair bit as an original control arm is not cheap and I had little faith in the patent parts which still came in, if memory serves me right about 300 quid each.
I had a friendly local garage do the work for me.
Another time during a service I had them do the gearbox oil aswell as the engine oil, I'm sure it only came to about 250 for fluids, filters and labour, a main dealer would have been significantly more.
I had a friendly local garage do the work for me.
Another time during a service I had them do the gearbox oil aswell as the engine oil, I'm sure it only came to about 250 for fluids, filters and labour, a main dealer would have been significantly more.
http://www.wkjeeps.com/kmenu.htm Lots of usefull stuff in there
diffs are ELSDs not varilocks as per the WJs
As above, interior on a WJ is alot more robust, I did around 240k miles in WJs with no break downs just replacing worn parts. Bought my current WK on 83k in november and it is just about to do 100k. I looked at a few and buy on condition, pre 07 ones were a bag of nails, there were a load of improvements in the 07MY. Hope yours lasts well.
diffs are ELSDs not varilocks as per the WJs
As above, interior on a WJ is alot more robust, I did around 240k miles in WJs with no break downs just replacing worn parts. Bought my current WK on 83k in november and it is just about to do 100k. I looked at a few and buy on condition, pre 07 ones were a bag of nails, there were a load of improvements in the 07MY. Hope yours lasts well.
Edited by scrw. on Friday 8th June 21:26
OK thanks for the replies.
any thoughts on what to do about the manual mode on the gearbox? that is my main annoyance at the moment.
did a bit of towing with it today, probably 1400 kg on the back and it was excellent
kevincamaroSS, did you find that the full service made any appreciable difference? it was last serviced 3000 miles ago and the on board computer suggests its fine for another 8000 or so I think so I'd rather not spend £600 ish unnecessarily
I'll have a close look through the service history to see when trans. fluids were last done
as for interior quality it is a sea of hard scratchy plastic, but there are very few squeaks or rattles and everything is still held firmly in place so its not too bad (so far)
any thoughts on what to do about the manual mode on the gearbox? that is my main annoyance at the moment.
did a bit of towing with it today, probably 1400 kg on the back and it was excellent
kevincamaroSS, did you find that the full service made any appreciable difference? it was last serviced 3000 miles ago and the on board computer suggests its fine for another 8000 or so I think so I'd rather not spend £600 ish unnecessarily
I'll have a close look through the service history to see when trans. fluids were last done
as for interior quality it is a sea of hard scratchy plastic, but there are very few squeaks or rattles and everything is still held firmly in place so its not too bad (so far)
There is some controller gubbins below the shifter, unsure of fixes/issues. Try on jeepforum.com for the techy questions, the v6 CRD was sold in the US so plenty of support over there. Seriously though, I used the manual shift on day 1 and have left it alone ever since, TCU seems to have good shift points on mine and copes with downhill stuff with trailers well, knowing when to do engine braking.
I did the full service and fluids because the history on mine was patchy. If you have a good history with fluids being done on time then not to worry. Check the brake fluid changes if you are towing a lot. Never bothered about the manual over-ride, used it a couple of times, but also found the auto mode to be fine for me.
I understand the WK2 came along in 2011 and the interior quality was improved. Anyone here have any experience of this ?
Also.... the 3.0 CRD, through WK the WK2, has that always been the same V6 (as I assume it was still under MB's ownership when first arrived in 2005 and now its Fiat) and who's engine design was it ?
Cheers
Also.... the 3.0 CRD, through WK the WK2, has that always been the same V6 (as I assume it was still under MB's ownership when first arrived in 2005 and now its Fiat) and who's engine design was it ?
Cheers
pcn1 said:
I understand the WK2 came along in 2011 and the interior quality was improved. Anyone here have any experience of this ?
Also.... the 3.0 CRD, through WK the WK2, has that always been the same V6 (as I assume it was still under MB's ownership when first arrived in 2005 and now its Fiat) and who's engine design was it ?
Cheers
New interior is OK for me. 3.0CRD is a development of the Mercedes engine by Fiat/VM Motori.Also.... the 3.0 CRD, through WK the WK2, has that always been the same V6 (as I assume it was still under MB's ownership when first arrived in 2005 and now its Fiat) and who's engine design was it ?
Cheers
KevinCamaroSS said:
I did the full service and fluids because the history on mine was patchy. If you have a good history with fluids being done on time then not to worry. Check the brake fluid changes if you are towing a lot. Never bothered about the manual over-ride, used it a couple of times, but also found the auto mode to be fine for me.
fair enough, overall I like the way the autobox goes about its business but there have been one or two times where it holds a gear a little too long on a hill where I'd prefer to be able to knock it down a gear.I got a transmission over temp warning the other day while towing ~2.5 tonnes around small country lanes with a few hills wand a bit of low speed manoeuvring thrown in. The car was working reasonably hard but I was surprised that the trans. was overheating from just that. It never misbehaved in any way so the warning on the dash was the only sign. Should I be worried or is that sort of use on the limit for these cars?
scrw. said:
shouldn't get that, whats the fluid level like?
couldn't tell you, it's one of those retarded 'dealer only' security caps on the top of the dipstick tube. If i have time I will drop by my local garage tomorrow and see if they have the necessary bits to check / top up the trans fluidGassing Station | Off Road | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff