Pajero/Shogun 1999-2006 advice

[wolfy1988]

Hi All

We live in Kuwait and are looking to buy a Pajero, ideally we are after the SWB model with the 3.8 petrol. They are proving rare however and I stupidly let a good one slip through my fingers a few weeks back.

90% of what is available over here is 3.5 petrol and LWB, which we would settle on, so we have to consider that.

I'm looking for any feedback and advice any of you guys have to offer? Fuel costs are not an issue and its just the two of us. Driving will be 95% on road, the rest is 'urban off roading' as its often necessary to take interesting diversions in Kuwait

What should I look out for?

Edited by wolfy1988 on Monday 21st September 15:06

[richs2891]

Pretty solid proper 4x4's
My experience is based on a 3.2 DID one as petrols are not v popular over in the UK for some reason. And not sure iof some of the issue will effect you living in a warmer climate. Fuel consumption is not clever on them regardless if petrol or diesel, 22 to 28 mpg is realistic depending on how drive.
Auto's are more popular than manual - not sure what you where looking at.
Be aware of mud behind the fuel pipes down to the tanks - plastic cover in the rear wheel arch - a real mud trap -
As are the rear wheel arches - need to run finger around them to keep them clean / rot free. Rust in rear quarters of arches, R Rear bumpers can act as a scoop and fill with mud as well.
Early models (in the UK up to 2004 has locking rear diff - easy to see if this version has locking diff switch by the gear lever.
Later models had electronic traction control which is a bit marmite in my eyes. I'm not a fan of it as it cuts power at the wrong time.
Mine has traction control and I retro fitted a locking rear diff with manual control, and a switch to turn all electronic stability / traction control off. Handy I'm told in sand though as the traction cuts the power at the wrong time. Most who drive the pajero in the sand either pull the ABS fuse or pull the wire from the ABS pick up. I put a switch in here.

Have a look on these site as I've probably missed a load out, and the petrol is a bot more popular in Aus
http://www.pocuk.com/forums/index.php?sid=9cfc5612...
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/index.php
http://forum.australia4wd.com/

[wolfy1988]

richs2891 said:

Lots of helpful stuff

Thanks Richard, I really appreciate you taking the time to write all that!

You also answered another question of mine, why some don't have the Lock R/diff button. I prefer the idea of the mechanical diff more but purely because I better understand how it works and when to use it.

Funny you should mention the rear bumper acting as a scoop, at least half of the LWBs I see here are bent back and up. Haven't noticed the same afliction on the SWB, perhaps the shorter overhang helps?

It's he autos we are looking at, can't say I've seen a manual car here yet.

I'll be sure to show the Pajero here once we find the right one.

Thanks again

[richs2891]

Oh forgot to mention AC not working on most lwb as aluminium pipe to the rear with a steel bracket around it, corrodes through and burst the pipe and loose AC. And expensive to repair with genuine parts, Some people get the pipes blanked off to the rear and have AC in the front only.
Keep and good eye on the coolant system - change it regular as if overheat, really easy to do the head gasket and not much room to skim the block.

yeah swb wont suffer as much with bent bumpers as it has a much shorter overhang at the rear. Though I feel the LWB drives better on the road compared to a swb. The tow bar help protect the rear bumper of firmer ground, would probably just act as a scoop in the sand.
Check that under body bash plates are in, One at very front front, 2nd one to protect the radiator at bottom, 3rd to protect gearbox. 2nd and 3rd ones most likely missing no big deal as standard fit ones where useless, easy to make out of sheet of aluminium or steel.
Ive never driven a shogun / pajero in the sand only V8 Toyota Landcruisers
PS rear locking diff is easy to retro fit - just buy a locking rear diff with the same ratio and the pump (can use the MK2 pump as its the same) and a switch, and 3 hours to unbolt old diff and bolt locking one in place.

Edited by richs2891 on Monday 21st September 19:40

[wolfy1988]

Ok great, I shall look out for those things. I prefer the look of the LWB actually, it looks more substantial and appears to boast more ground clearance although I haven't managed to find evidence to back that up though. Saying that, break over and departure angles are FAR better on the short ones

Oh you might be able to help me with another question, as you mentioned a tow bar is desirable if only for protection but I was toying with the idea of relocating the spare to the cargo area/boot. I have this paranoia of someone rear ending me (oo err) at 2mph and smacking my back door and smashing the rear screen by hitting the wheel before the bumper. Do you reckon it would fit?

Edited by wolfy1988 on Monday 21st September 19:43

Edited by wolfy1988 on Monday 21st September 19:45

[richs2891]

The spare tyre will fit in the boot, Not sure if it will stand up to one side like see on some 4x4's - not tied that but will certainly lay flat ok.
My tow bar is there for both towing and protection !

[RumRunner]

You might also given the climate find a mint late 2.8. I have one, and had many 4x4 and used 3.2s. However I have had this for over 4 years and it will be staying until it a major issue.