Defender Off Road Preperation
Discussion
Apologies in advance for the lengthy post, and the numerous questions that I am about to ask.
I have had a classic Range Rover since 2008. I was very spoilt as the previous owner had prepared the car to a very high spec including underbody guards protecting everything, twin batteries and up rated alternator and loads of other things.... I have given that car a lot of abuse over the years and the level to which the previous owner prepared it has always given me piece of mind. (still managed to break it occasionally though)
I have recently bought an old 110 to compliment it. This car is relatively standard other than sitting on large tyres, winch bumper and rock sliders. I have sitting in the garage, but not yet fitted, a steering guard, a winch and snorkel. It is 20 years / 200,000 miles young, and has a 300 TDi engine. The proposed use of the car is for green laning and pay & play.
SNORKEL
On the standard air filter, there is what looks like a non return drain valve to release any water that gets as far as the air filter housing. As the car is not in its first flush of youth, is that likely to be effective as a non return valve? i.e. should I remove it and blank it off, or seal it permanently, or am I best to leave it there? One compromise may be to leave it in place, but secure (and seal) a small clear plastic bag (such as used for coins) around it. Should any water want to drain into the bag, I will see it and empty it, but should the filter housing become submerged, the bag will also prevent water entering the non return valve.
ELECTRICAL
I am not planning on winch challenges or anything, but obviously the winch will be used occasionally. I was thinking of fitting a second battery and split charge system. I happen to have a nearly new leisure battery sitting in my garage (ex caravan that has just been sold), so the only real cost would be for a battery tray / holder / brackets and a split charge relay kit.
Is it worth me fitting a second battery and/or an uprated alternator, or are these not really required? Does anyone have any links to a decent split charge kit, battery tray / holder / clamps or uprated alternator? Other than the general principal that I should go for as big as possible, what amp rating should the split charge relay be? What is the output of the standard alternator?
WHEEL ARCH EXTENSIONS
The tyres currently extend beyond the wheel arches. Not sure how it got an MOT, but I am not arguing with that. As the tyres have plenty of life left I dont want to change them. Can you buy wheel arch extensions off the shelf? Ideally I would like something that is easy to fit and also flexible so if (when) I scrape it against a tree, it wont damage it. Any links please?
UNDERBODY PROTECTION
What are peoples opinions on diff guards, fuel tank guards, sump guards and transmission guards for defenders? On one hand, I dont want to spend money if these are not required; on the other hand I would rather spend a bit now than have an expensive bill in a years time if I break it. (I do have a track record of being a bit over enthusiastic and as such the car may not always be treated gently). Any links please? Oh, it sits on a wolf chassis. Does that mean that standard guards may not fit, or are all the holes & brackets etc on the chassis the same? The axles are also wolf spec, which I think is the same as a P38 Range Rover and defenders from 2002 onward, but am happy to be corrected on that.
LIGHTS
Finally, my better half (who is the actual owner), is very keen on some extra lights, preferably mounted on a roof bar, but possibly on the winch bumper. Any links for something decent?
I have had a little look on fleabay and google for the items I have asked about links for.
However, I would much rather buy from a recommendation rather than a random internet site only to find I am buying a poor quality product.
Thanks for reading this far, and for any positive advice.
I have had a classic Range Rover since 2008. I was very spoilt as the previous owner had prepared the car to a very high spec including underbody guards protecting everything, twin batteries and up rated alternator and loads of other things.... I have given that car a lot of abuse over the years and the level to which the previous owner prepared it has always given me piece of mind. (still managed to break it occasionally though)
I have recently bought an old 110 to compliment it. This car is relatively standard other than sitting on large tyres, winch bumper and rock sliders. I have sitting in the garage, but not yet fitted, a steering guard, a winch and snorkel. It is 20 years / 200,000 miles young, and has a 300 TDi engine. The proposed use of the car is for green laning and pay & play.
SNORKEL
On the standard air filter, there is what looks like a non return drain valve to release any water that gets as far as the air filter housing. As the car is not in its first flush of youth, is that likely to be effective as a non return valve? i.e. should I remove it and blank it off, or seal it permanently, or am I best to leave it there? One compromise may be to leave it in place, but secure (and seal) a small clear plastic bag (such as used for coins) around it. Should any water want to drain into the bag, I will see it and empty it, but should the filter housing become submerged, the bag will also prevent water entering the non return valve.
ELECTRICAL
I am not planning on winch challenges or anything, but obviously the winch will be used occasionally. I was thinking of fitting a second battery and split charge system. I happen to have a nearly new leisure battery sitting in my garage (ex caravan that has just been sold), so the only real cost would be for a battery tray / holder / brackets and a split charge relay kit.
Is it worth me fitting a second battery and/or an uprated alternator, or are these not really required? Does anyone have any links to a decent split charge kit, battery tray / holder / clamps or uprated alternator? Other than the general principal that I should go for as big as possible, what amp rating should the split charge relay be? What is the output of the standard alternator?
WHEEL ARCH EXTENSIONS
The tyres currently extend beyond the wheel arches. Not sure how it got an MOT, but I am not arguing with that. As the tyres have plenty of life left I dont want to change them. Can you buy wheel arch extensions off the shelf? Ideally I would like something that is easy to fit and also flexible so if (when) I scrape it against a tree, it wont damage it. Any links please?
UNDERBODY PROTECTION
What are peoples opinions on diff guards, fuel tank guards, sump guards and transmission guards for defenders? On one hand, I dont want to spend money if these are not required; on the other hand I would rather spend a bit now than have an expensive bill in a years time if I break it. (I do have a track record of being a bit over enthusiastic and as such the car may not always be treated gently). Any links please? Oh, it sits on a wolf chassis. Does that mean that standard guards may not fit, or are all the holes & brackets etc on the chassis the same? The axles are also wolf spec, which I think is the same as a P38 Range Rover and defenders from 2002 onward, but am happy to be corrected on that.
LIGHTS
Finally, my better half (who is the actual owner), is very keen on some extra lights, preferably mounted on a roof bar, but possibly on the winch bumper. Any links for something decent?
I have had a little look on fleabay and google for the items I have asked about links for.
However, I would much rather buy from a recommendation rather than a random internet site only to find I am buying a poor quality product.
Thanks for reading this far, and for any positive advice.
If the airbox drain is still nice and pliable simply wash it thoroughly and apply a little oil to keep it soft. Optionally seal it with a little silicon but I've never bothered but do seal to the airbox lid with silicone.
Extend your axle breathers because water ingress into the diff is much bigger problem.
Wading plug are not essential but at 50pence each from plumbing supplies shop you might as well.
A split charger is only needed when using Batteries with different impedance such as when one is a leisure battery for running fridges etc.
To run a winch I strongly suggest you instead fit two matched (same type) batteries. Source a second hand 100Amp alternator from V8 Range Rover (Defender V8 Alternators are typically 90Amps), make sure the bearing are good and install a new set of bushes.
You will need wheel arches if you can see any tyre tread from above to avoid MOT and police problems on construction and use regs.
I've never bothered with any under body protection but do have custom built rock/tree sliders welded directly to chassis and sills and custom fabricated front and rear bumpers. I don't believe in diff guards because they trap the mud and slop and I've seem several diff pans rusted through because of this but not one with any significant impact damage.
I've never fitted any diff guard to my old 200TDi which got abused once or twice a month for nearly 5years but I did replace the diff pans with cast pipe caps but this was because of the number of diffs I busted out the pan.
If you have disc brakes on the rear remove the mud guard to allow good jet wash access.
On my old 200 TDI I had a light bar with four micro spots which are bright close but little range. Now on my 3000 TDi I pair of fogs lamps on the outside for defuse light to side over the wings and spotlights on the inner pair for range. This works well, these shouldn't be used on the road.
If you need to replace any track rod ends or prop UJ get the types with grease nipples and regularly re-grease.
I treat the wheel bears as a service item and regularly replace these, probably once a year because the mud at Kirton is more like rubbing paste
Discovery Headlamp easily fill with water if wading, I try to seal mine with liberal application of silicon but this regularly fails but you have the option of sealed units if not already fitted.
My current 300 TDi Discovery before and after
My previous 200 TDi Discovery before and after
Extend your axle breathers because water ingress into the diff is much bigger problem.
Wading plug are not essential but at 50pence each from plumbing supplies shop you might as well.
A split charger is only needed when using Batteries with different impedance such as when one is a leisure battery for running fridges etc.
To run a winch I strongly suggest you instead fit two matched (same type) batteries. Source a second hand 100Amp alternator from V8 Range Rover (Defender V8 Alternators are typically 90Amps), make sure the bearing are good and install a new set of bushes.
You will need wheel arches if you can see any tyre tread from above to avoid MOT and police problems on construction and use regs.
I've never bothered with any under body protection but do have custom built rock/tree sliders welded directly to chassis and sills and custom fabricated front and rear bumpers. I don't believe in diff guards because they trap the mud and slop and I've seem several diff pans rusted through because of this but not one with any significant impact damage.
I've never fitted any diff guard to my old 200TDi which got abused once or twice a month for nearly 5years but I did replace the diff pans with cast pipe caps but this was because of the number of diffs I busted out the pan.
If you have disc brakes on the rear remove the mud guard to allow good jet wash access.
On my old 200 TDI I had a light bar with four micro spots which are bright close but little range. Now on my 3000 TDi I pair of fogs lamps on the outside for defuse light to side over the wings and spotlights on the inner pair for range. This works well, these shouldn't be used on the road.
If you need to replace any track rod ends or prop UJ get the types with grease nipples and regularly re-grease.
I treat the wheel bears as a service item and regularly replace these, probably once a year because the mud at Kirton is more like rubbing paste
Discovery Headlamp easily fill with water if wading, I try to seal mine with liberal application of silicon but this regularly fails but you have the option of sealed units if not already fitted.
My current 300 TDi Discovery before and after
My previous 200 TDi Discovery before and after
Edited by Martin4x4 on Monday 20th April 13:03
Forgot to mention with the V8 alternator swap you will need to keep the old pulley wheel and swap that on to the 100 Amp alternator. Take care to get the new pulley aligned nicely. It is very easy to shred the serpentine belt on the 300TDi if the alignment in not very good.
On the extended breathers I also extended the transfer and gearbox breathers and fed them into 2 to 1 pneumatic manifolds like these to reduce the final count. Given you've already run them under the bonnet you should probably use a 4 to 1 under bonnet and only need too route one breather. Many people run these up the snorkel, but I suggest bulkhead union this into the air box.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/pneumatics-hydraulic...
Another neat trick I've seen for defenders, which I don't need since my batteries are under the bonnet, is to put an Anderson plug on the front bulkhead of the defender seat battery box. You can also easily fit a battery isolator on this, these are a right pain to find the right place to fit on a Discovery.
On the extended breathers I also extended the transfer and gearbox breathers and fed them into 2 to 1 pneumatic manifolds like these to reduce the final count. Given you've already run them under the bonnet you should probably use a 4 to 1 under bonnet and only need too route one breather. Many people run these up the snorkel, but I suggest bulkhead union this into the air box.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/pneumatics-hydraulic...
Another neat trick I've seen for defenders, which I don't need since my batteries are under the bonnet, is to put an Anderson plug on the front bulkhead of the defender seat battery box. You can also easily fit a battery isolator on this, these are a right pain to find the right place to fit on a Discovery.
Edited by Martin4x4 on Monday 20th April 13:05
Snorkel - I filled the beather on mine with grease. Kinda a semi-permanent measure as i didnt want to blank it off either as its there for a purpose.
Electrical - If you do go split charge then make sure the relay used is up to the job. Id advise something at least 100 amps or more. The reason is that the winch load will go through that relay as both batteries will be servicing the load. Id also say that for occassional P&P use a single decent size battery is fine. I run a goodwinch, 2 optima blue batteries and a 500a split charge system; and my alt is 75a IIRC.
Wheel arch extensions - you can get these off the shelf which are moulded plastic, but i think they look rubbish! What tyres are they? sometimes its the offset of the wheel that causes them to stick out when its not necessary on a 265 for instance. Ive seen people putting thick rubber sheeting onto the existing wheel arches to make them wider. would be flexible then.
Underbody protection - You wont need fuel, sump or transmission guards on a 200tdi, but I would get some diff guards. You can get the ones (like from QT) which wrap around the diff rather than the "half moon" clamp on type which id agree do rot out the diff pan. Obviously ive heard people filling the cavity with waxoyl to sort that too!
Lights - Whatever you do, get some LED ones. Easier to fit and most of the time brighter.
Electrical - If you do go split charge then make sure the relay used is up to the job. Id advise something at least 100 amps or more. The reason is that the winch load will go through that relay as both batteries will be servicing the load. Id also say that for occassional P&P use a single decent size battery is fine. I run a goodwinch, 2 optima blue batteries and a 500a split charge system; and my alt is 75a IIRC.
Wheel arch extensions - you can get these off the shelf which are moulded plastic, but i think they look rubbish! What tyres are they? sometimes its the offset of the wheel that causes them to stick out when its not necessary on a 265 for instance. Ive seen people putting thick rubber sheeting onto the existing wheel arches to make them wider. would be flexible then.
Underbody protection - You wont need fuel, sump or transmission guards on a 200tdi, but I would get some diff guards. You can get the ones (like from QT) which wrap around the diff rather than the "half moon" clamp on type which id agree do rot out the diff pan. Obviously ive heard people filling the cavity with waxoyl to sort that too!
Lights - Whatever you do, get some LED ones. Easier to fit and most of the time brighter.
roof lights. If you want HG Wells Heat-Ray bright have a look at these...
24,000 lumens of heat-ray goodness £187. Smaller lower brightness models are available too.
Don't be put off by the HK location, I've bought loads of stuff from them in the past without problem.
Video of similar but lower power below...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=922lBD_bW30
24,000 lumens of heat-ray goodness £187. Smaller lower brightness models are available too.
Don't be put off by the HK location, I've bought loads of stuff from them in the past without problem.
Video of similar but lower power below...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=922lBD_bW30
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