Tidy 1996 petrol 3.0 Shogun for two grand - is this madness?
Discussion
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2015...
I am thinking about this motor as a third car solution to be used for weekend towing of a horse box (Max total weight to pull about 2300kg). Won't be going to far so fuel consumption not a consideration. Want something easy to drive, reliable to start/stop and something where I don't care if it gets dented, scraped or full of sand if we take four children to the beach for the day etc (so must seat seven).
It's got full Mitsubishi service history and 79000 miles and looks pretty tidy.
Is this a mad idea and are there any famous problems with that era Shogun?
Thanks in advance.
I am thinking about this motor as a third car solution to be used for weekend towing of a horse box (Max total weight to pull about 2300kg). Won't be going to far so fuel consumption not a consideration. Want something easy to drive, reliable to start/stop and something where I don't care if it gets dented, scraped or full of sand if we take four children to the beach for the day etc (so must seat seven).
It's got full Mitsubishi service history and 79000 miles and looks pretty tidy.
Is this a mad idea and are there any famous problems with that era Shogun?
Thanks in advance.
Rot. Rot. A bit more rot. Oh, and did I mention rot? All those plastic trims, arches, sills - they hide... ROT.
Mine ('96 SOHC 24v LWB) died last summer. A week shy of an MOT that was going to be very ambitious without a lot of sparks flying, what actually killed it was the crank pulley stripping the thread in the nose of the crank, and smearing the locating pin everywhere. It'd already come off once, with the previous owner, and he'd upgraded the (very small) pin, but the damage was clearly there in the thread already. But that was with about 220k miles on. If that sort of barge floats your boat, then there's nothing fundamentally wrong with it. Went OK, steered OK, stopped OK. Nothing very exciting about it.
If it's solid, and if it ticks your boxes, go for it. But at that price...? <wince>
(BTW, I've got the alternator, brand new from Milner about 200 miles earlier...)
Mine ('96 SOHC 24v LWB) died last summer. A week shy of an MOT that was going to be very ambitious without a lot of sparks flying, what actually killed it was the crank pulley stripping the thread in the nose of the crank, and smearing the locating pin everywhere. It'd already come off once, with the previous owner, and he'd upgraded the (very small) pin, but the damage was clearly there in the thread already. But that was with about 220k miles on. If that sort of barge floats your boat, then there's nothing fundamentally wrong with it. Went OK, steered OK, stopped OK. Nothing very exciting about it.
If it's solid, and if it ticks your boxes, go for it. But at that price...? <wince>
(BTW, I've got the alternator, brand new from Milner about 200 miles earlier...)
OK so I need it up on Ramps or over a pit to make sure I can do a really thorough rot check.
I just get the feeling that a dealer would just shove it off to auction if it wasn't particularly straight and in good order. They still have to stand by the sales of goods act for three months with the thing be retailing it. Given its an established four by four specialist I don't see them trying to sell a rot box mot failure.
I could of course be completely wrong.
I can up my budget so it's not the price that's key it's more that I think that era petrol cars are easier and cheaper to keep running than more modern stuff with more to go wrong or anything with a dpf...
If the big Jeeps had seven seats I'd go that way but it just seems a bit limiting to run a big thirsty weekend monster that can only seat the same as the weekday Astra.
I just get the feeling that a dealer would just shove it off to auction if it wasn't particularly straight and in good order. They still have to stand by the sales of goods act for three months with the thing be retailing it. Given its an established four by four specialist I don't see them trying to sell a rot box mot failure.
I could of course be completely wrong.
I can up my budget so it's not the price that's key it's more that I think that era petrol cars are easier and cheaper to keep running than more modern stuff with more to go wrong or anything with a dpf...
If the big Jeeps had seven seats I'd go that way but it just seems a bit limiting to run a big thirsty weekend monster that can only seat the same as the weekday Astra.
converted lurker said:
OK so I need it up on Ramps or over a pit to make sure I can do a really thorough rot check.
Don't even need do that. Just stick your head under the sills, under the arches, in the shuts, and have a good poke around where the tupperware ends. If it's there, you'll see it. If you can't, it's probably still there, but you'll need the tupperware off to find it.converted lurker said:
If the big Jeeps had seven seats I'd go that way but it just seems a bit limiting to run a big thirsty weekend monster that can only seat the same as the weekday Astra.
Let's just say that the rearmost pair of seats are hardly business class.Friend bought one recently, we had it at an off road day on Sunday. Was super craic and the shogun performed very well. It has a rear diff lock which Was an expensive factory option but made a good difference! (May be standard on a v6, yet to be established!)
http://reallymeansounds.com/forum/threads/shogun-v...
http://reallymeansounds.com/forum/threads/shogun-v...
2k sounds pricey. I had a '96 V6 LWB GLS for 8 years and let it go last year fo £800 and thats with absolutely no rot, an engine with 183k miles on it never used a drop of oil, 12v winch with a HD bullbar and big spots up front and 16" wheels from a mk3 with 5 nearly new tyres. I agree that rot is a problem but I sprayed the underside of mine liberally with old engine oil every 12 months so never a problem. I'd have a good look around first before buying that.
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