Old school off roading.....
Discussion
Someone forwarded me this link, amazing what the old girl will do!
http://www.youtube.com/embed/nq2jY1trxqg?rel=0
Enjoy!
http://www.youtube.com/embed/nq2jY1trxqg?rel=0
Enjoy!
Ledaig said:
Nice vid - what it does clearly show is how a narrow tyre can cut down through the crud to obtain grip instead of floating on top like most do now.
Yet that is only true of certain conditions. If there is something grippy to cut through too, however that isn't always the case. Hence why none of the Icelandic 4x4's run narrow tyres on deep snow.300bhp/ton said:
Ledaig said:
Nice vid - what it does clearly show is how a narrow tyre can cut down through the crud to obtain grip instead of floating on top like most do now.
Yet that is only true of certain conditions. If there is something grippy to cut through too, however that isn't always the case. Hence why none of the Icelandic 4x4's run narrow tyres on deep snow....but over here it is more the exception rather than the rule.
M
camel_landy said:
300bhp/ton said:
Ledaig said:
Nice vid - what it does clearly show is how a narrow tyre can cut down through the crud to obtain grip instead of floating on top like most do now.
Yet that is only true of certain conditions. If there is something grippy to cut through too, however that isn't always the case. Hence why none of the Icelandic 4x4's run narrow tyres on deep snow....but over here it is more the exception rather than the rule.
M
Both can and do work in the UK very well. On anything lose, like sandy soil, or just plain sand, then a narrow tyre will likely just dig you in very quickly. A wide tyre will help you stay on top.
Even on soft soil wide tyres can deliberately help you stay on top. This is something we often use when driving over ploughed fields on the farm. No need to dig in and make wheel trenches when you don't need too.
300bhp/ton said:
Don't agree at all I'm afraid. Narrow and wide tyres both have place. But dismissing wide tyres purely because they are wide is silly.
Both can and do work in the UK very well. On anything lose, like sandy soil, or just plain sand, then a narrow tyre will likely just dig you in very quickly. A wide tyre will help you stay on top.
Even on soft soil wide tyres can deliberately help you stay on top. This is something we often use when driving over ploughed fields on the farm. No need to dig in and make wheel trenches when you don't need too.
No... We're saying the same things but in different ways.Both can and do work in the UK very well. On anything lose, like sandy soil, or just plain sand, then a narrow tyre will likely just dig you in very quickly. A wide tyre will help you stay on top.
Even on soft soil wide tyres can deliberately help you stay on top. This is something we often use when driving over ploughed fields on the farm. No need to dig in and make wheel trenches when you don't need too.
As you correctly say, on a ploughed field, you'll need floatation and tyres with a large surface area (like with snow & sand). However, for most driving in the UK (i.e. for most people on here), I'd still see that as more the exception rather than the rule.
M
camel_landy said:
No... We're saying the same things but in different ways.
As you correctly say, on a ploughed field, you'll need floatation and tyres with a large surface area (like with snow & sand). However, for most driving in the UK (i.e. for most people on here), I'd still see that as more the exception rather than the rule.
M
The thing is, I don't see it as the exception though.As you correctly say, on a ploughed field, you'll need floatation and tyres with a large surface area (like with snow & sand). However, for most driving in the UK (i.e. for most people on here), I'd still see that as more the exception rather than the rule.
M
I live near the Greensand ridge, which means we get a lot of sandy soil. Narrow tyres don't always fair well round here. Where it isn't sandy soil it's chalky (I also live near to a lime kilns). Chalky/clay mud often won't let you cut through the top as easily as you'd hope. So while narrow tyres certainly do their part and work very well, you might only need to drive for 5-10 miles and find they won't.
On this day on this terrain, narrow tyres just couldn't bite through the mud as it was too hard, you'd have needed studs. And I saw more than one Defender 90 turn sides ways coming down this very slope. Anything on wider tyres just had more grip and control.
300bhp/ton said:
On this day on this terrain, narrow tyres just couldn't bite through the mud as it was too hard, you'd have needed studs. And I saw more than one Defender 90 turn sides ways coming down this very slope. Anything on wider tyres just had more grip and control.
A set of 750/R16 XZLs would 'bite' into that nicely. M
300bhp/ton said:
camel_landy said:
A set of 750/R16 XZLs would 'bite' into that nicely.
M
Nope, they would have been fM
king awful. Remember I was actually there I've found XZLs to be perfect in those conditions as they have such a small contact patch (when inflated properly) & aggressive block pattern. Mind you, anything would struggle in those conditions if you're carrying too much momentum!
M
camel_landy said:
Genuinely surprised at that...
I've found XZLs to be perfect in those conditions as they have such a small contact patch (when inflated properly) & aggressive block pattern. Mind you, anything would struggle in those conditions if you're carrying too much momentum!
M
To be fair, XZL's can an do work. But there is a reason they aren't favoured for off road trialling. And they are just out classed by more aggressive patterns these days. Just like the XCL's before them.I've found XZLs to be perfect in those conditions as they have such a small contact patch (when inflated properly) & aggressive block pattern. Mind you, anything would struggle in those conditions if you're carrying too much momentum!
M
Traction depends as much on driver skill and tyre pressure as the width of the tread face and pattern. Obviously you can't make a 33 x 10.50 tyre act like a 7.50 and vice versa but very often a reduction in tyre pressure will make a very big difference in contact area. Dropping my 235 section Kumhos from 35 to 25 PSI almost doubles the contact patch and that is with a low corner mass of 350kg.
I favour narrow tyres for reduced rolling resistance on the road - with a V8 engine every percentage reduction in losses counts!
I favour narrow tyres for reduced rolling resistance on the road - with a V8 engine every percentage reduction in losses counts!
100SRV said:
Traction depends as much on driver skill and tyre pressure as the width of the tread face and pattern. Obviously you can't make a 33 x 10.50 tyre act like a 7.50 and vice versa but very often a reduction in tyre pressure will make a very big difference in contact area. Dropping my 235 section Kumhos from 35 to 25 PSI almost doubles the contact patch and that is with a low corner mass of 350kg.
I favour narrow tyres for reduced rolling resistance on the road - with a V8 engine every percentage reduction in losses counts!
Making use of the traction is, I agree largely driver related. Although on a straight descent when you are in low 1st, there really isn't a lot you can do but become a passenger. You could go faster to try and prevent wheel slip/slide, but on a trails section this may mean you won't make the turn at the bottom.I favour narrow tyres for reduced rolling resistance on the road - with a V8 engine every percentage reduction in losses counts!
For RTV trails we can run as low as 21psi, although CCV trails can drop to 12psi.
Anyhow, to the OP. Good vid and good find
Tyres will always be a hot topic though.
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