Defender front axle problem
Discussion
Hello,
Went green laning for the first time last week and ended up with a small hole in my front diff about 2mm big. Think it was caused by a stone or something. Anyway oil started leaking. I don't really want to replace the axle for the sake of the small hole. Was wondering if I would get away with a self tapping screw to plug the hole, with a bit of araldite to seal it off?
Cheers
Ian
Went green laning for the first time last week and ended up with a small hole in my front diff about 2mm big. Think it was caused by a stone or something. Anyway oil started leaking. I don't really want to replace the axle for the sake of the small hole. Was wondering if I would get away with a self tapping screw to plug the hole, with a bit of araldite to seal it off?
Cheers
Ian
how about this
some website said:
I have a Toyota conversion in my 88" and am doing a second in the 109 I am building. This conversion consists of installing Toyota differential carriers and 30-spline axles into the original Land Rover axle housings. I also opted for factory electric lockers for both trucks. This conversion isn't cheap but it is pretty straight forward and builds an axle that rivals, if not exceeds a Dana 44 in strength. It does, however, require changing both differentials as 4:70 gears were not and are not available for the V6/Turbo style differential. Here is what it looks like when done:
Here's the difference between 10-spline and 30-spline axles:
You can also upgrade to a newer style Rover differential carrier and install the Series 4:70 gears but have the better 24-spline side gears and even install an aftermarket locker. This will allow you to have a fairly strong rear differential but keep the cost down as you won't need to change anything in the front axle. If the front axle concerns you, the same upgrade can be done there too.
There is also a rare Toyota T-100 that used a 4:70 gear ratio from the factory. Another option is to find one of those carriers, modify the Rover housing to accept it and the 30-spline axles. As this carrier was never offered with a factory locker, an aftermarket locker would need to be installed if desired. Again, no changes to the front axle are necessary but you would end up with an extremely strong rear axle.
Or you can choose to do nothing and keep running the 10-splines. With an 88" that doesn't see much abuse you can get away with it. These axles fail from fatigue more than anything so change them out every 20k-30k, carry a spare set and in most cases you'll get away with it.
If you're interested in going the Toyota route or the 24-spline route, I can help you with axles.
jim
______________
http://www.seriestrek.com
Here's the difference between 10-spline and 30-spline axles:
You can also upgrade to a newer style Rover differential carrier and install the Series 4:70 gears but have the better 24-spline side gears and even install an aftermarket locker. This will allow you to have a fairly strong rear differential but keep the cost down as you won't need to change anything in the front axle. If the front axle concerns you, the same upgrade can be done there too.
There is also a rare Toyota T-100 that used a 4:70 gear ratio from the factory. Another option is to find one of those carriers, modify the Rover housing to accept it and the 30-spline axles. As this carrier was never offered with a factory locker, an aftermarket locker would need to be installed if desired. Again, no changes to the front axle are necessary but you would end up with an extremely strong rear axle.
Or you can choose to do nothing and keep running the 10-splines. With an 88" that doesn't see much abuse you can get away with it. These axles fail from fatigue more than anything so change them out every 20k-30k, carry a spare set and in most cases you'll get away with it.
If you're interested in going the Toyota route or the 24-spline route, I can help you with axles.
jim
______________
http://www.seriestrek.com
The diff cover is pressed steel. Unless you get it very clean welding in situ is going to be tricky; because of the oil and the steel is very thin.
The 'fix it once' route is to remove the axle, strip the casing, cut off the cover and weld on a replacement cover (thicker ones are avaliable)
http://www.google.co.uk/#q=land+rover+diff+pan+rep...
The 'fix it once' route is to remove the axle, strip the casing, cut off the cover and weld on a replacement cover (thicker ones are avaliable)
http://www.google.co.uk/#q=land+rover+diff+pan+rep...
andyb66 said:
The diff cover is pressed steel. Unless you get it very clean welding in situ is going to be tricky; because of the oil and the steel is very thin.
We have done many of these in situ with no problem, good man with the welder and a new pan in no problem.Make sure it's not the diff broken and has popped a hole from the inside first.
Sarge 4x4 said:
Had to mend more broken L/Rovers than I care to remember........Mind you it pays the bills.
But Land Rover axles, really? They're good for 500-600bhp and unless seriously seriously abused or neglected are bullet proof. My Disco has had it's share of wear and tear faults but has only ever let me down once when the clutch fork broke while I was towing and If I hadn't had the loaded trailer on the back I would have been able to complete my journey anyway.
"Bullet Proof" ? Really?
I have broken at least 6 rear and 4 front diffs over the past 8 yrs and a few half shafts and CV's I have finally decided to throw some money at it and upgrade to ashcroft components. You will struggle to find anyone who attends pay and play days frequently who hasn't broken a diff.
I have broken at least 6 rear and 4 front diffs over the past 8 yrs and a few half shafts and CV's I have finally decided to throw some money at it and upgrade to ashcroft components. You will struggle to find anyone who attends pay and play days frequently who hasn't broken a diff.
Muf90 said:
"Bullet Proof" ? Really?
I have broken at least 6 rear and 4 front diffs over the past 8 yrs and a few half shafts and CV's I have finally decided to throw some money at it and upgrade to ashcroft components. You will struggle to find anyone who attends pay and play days frequently who hasn't broken a diff.
Indeed regulary nuked diffs and half shafts at play days until I upgraded it all.I have broken at least 6 rear and 4 front diffs over the past 8 yrs and a few half shafts and CV's I have finally decided to throw some money at it and upgrade to ashcroft components. You will struggle to find anyone who attends pay and play days frequently who hasn't broken a diff.
Experienced the little hole in diff casing problem - and it was broken bits coming out rather that bits going in.
Crossflow Kid said:
I think that says more about pay and play days than LR quality ;-)
Hope you dont mind if i go by the general opinion of these guys www.pirate4x4.com rather than you.they fit 42" - 49" tyres to their "rigs" and go crawling up boulders the size of houses etc out in the wilderness with no hope of a quick rescue if it all goes wrong...
Toy axles with this upgrade
"Longfields new 30 spline chromoly super set is the worlds strongest axle for Toyota's.
They are made out of 4340 chromoly and 300M material. They allow up to 40 degrees of turning radius and have a consistant breaking point of 8900-9000 foot pounds of torque."
will do everything you could hope for.. pretty much indefinitely.
next step up is portals from a moggy
or 2.5 tonne rockwells
Edited by SystemParanoia on Saturday 27th April 17:47
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