Rust proofing for an old build
Discussion
Not to hijack the other thread
Currently re-commissioning an old 1988 Shogun for winter duties. It's been stood/stored for at least 3 years, probably longer and although it is rusty it is not terminal, i.e. there are no untoward holes in the chassis. I'm not in a position to dismantle the truck but I do want to stop the rust from getting any worse over this winter so I'm considering having the Shogun professionally waxoyled underbody and cavities too for about £440.
Bit new to this 4x4 lark - does this sound a reasonable proposition?
If you'd care to see the see the actual condition of the truck, it's here: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Currently re-commissioning an old 1988 Shogun for winter duties. It's been stood/stored for at least 3 years, probably longer and although it is rusty it is not terminal, i.e. there are no untoward holes in the chassis. I'm not in a position to dismantle the truck but I do want to stop the rust from getting any worse over this winter so I'm considering having the Shogun professionally waxoyled underbody and cavities too for about £440.
Bit new to this 4x4 lark - does this sound a reasonable proposition?
If you'd care to see the see the actual condition of the truck, it's here: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Sounds like the going rate for the few companies that offer this service. Upto you if it's worth spending that kind of money on your vehicle. It's entirely doable yourself but a very messy job.
Only thing I'd mention is that having it done in this weather would be mad, and I'd wait until next summer. They steam wash the chassis to remove all the crap, let it dry and then use waxoyl or similar to protect it. You can imagine that doing this during freezing weather will mean it takes days to dry out (which they won't have time for) and that the waxoyl stuff is very gloopy when applied cold, which means it wont penetrate. They can heat the stuff, but your chassis will still be cold, and even worse the waxoyl could trap moisture as it won't have had time to evaporate. Best time to do it is when it's warmest... Another winter won't kill it.
Other option is to get the wheels off, prepare and paint the areas you can access but again it's a summer job. Obviously painting then waxoyling is best of both.
Only thing I'd mention is that having it done in this weather would be mad, and I'd wait until next summer. They steam wash the chassis to remove all the crap, let it dry and then use waxoyl or similar to protect it. You can imagine that doing this during freezing weather will mean it takes days to dry out (which they won't have time for) and that the waxoyl stuff is very gloopy when applied cold, which means it wont penetrate. They can heat the stuff, but your chassis will still be cold, and even worse the waxoyl could trap moisture as it won't have had time to evaporate. Best time to do it is when it's warmest... Another winter won't kill it.
Other option is to get the wheels off, prepare and paint the areas you can access but again it's a summer job. Obviously painting then waxoyling is best of both.
Thanks for the reply
mikeh501 said:
Best time to do it is when it's warmest... Another winter won't kill it.
Yes, this is sort of my issue – it’s too cold now & I don’t have the premises (to really dry it out) either; I suppose I’m just a bit nervous about leaving the chassis untreated over the winter but I do accept that a couple of months until the Spring won’t make or break the Shogun (not that you'd notice)mikeh501 said:
painting then waxoyling is best of both.
This is my preferred solution too and what I certainly want to do next year; I have some Bilt Hamber products that I should be able to apply in the Summer to clean, paint & wax. Again, I agree that I have used some of these rust removal products over the last few weeks on bodywork and I think they have not worked as well as they might had the ambient temperature been considerably higher.Having had a look at your pictures (nice project btw) then I'd definitely wait until spring to finish off your build and ensure its nicely painted etc. you could spend the winter to knock back any bad rust areas and prep the chassis for painting whilst panels are off and its in bits, then get painting (rust killer + zinc primer + topcoat) in the spring, then waxoyl and underseal in the summer. All be nicely sorted for next winter.
I waxoyled and undersealed the external chassis parts and arches on my defender a few months ago and it's a messy job but you get to examine all the vehicle which is good. I'll be doing the internals of the rails next summer when I can be sure there's no moisture in the rails.
Other thing to remember is that whatever you do with it then if your off reading like me, then it's important you choose a covering which is easily touched up as for me I can be sure that when I've scraped the chassis over some obstacles ill need to touch up areas every few months.
I waxoyled and undersealed the external chassis parts and arches on my defender a few months ago and it's a messy job but you get to examine all the vehicle which is good. I'll be doing the internals of the rails next summer when I can be sure there's no moisture in the rails.
Other thing to remember is that whatever you do with it then if your off reading like me, then it's important you choose a covering which is easily touched up as for me I can be sure that when I've scraped the chassis over some obstacles ill need to touch up areas every few months.
mikeh501 said:
...you could spend the winter to knock back any bad rust areas and prep the chassis for painting whilst panels are off and its in bits, then get painting (rust killer + zinc primer + topcoat) in the spring, then waxoyl and underseal in the summer. All be nicely sorted for next winter.
Thanks, that's a good plan - which I'll try and put into action.I'd agree with the above... Waxoyl is a sod to apply when cold!!
I think I'd be inclined to wait until spring but until then just keep the chassis clean. (It's the grit/grime/mud wedged in a corner or on top of the chassis that causes the problems as that will hold the salt & moisture, causing the most damage.)
M
I think I'd be inclined to wait until spring but until then just keep the chassis clean. (It's the grit/grime/mud wedged in a corner or on top of the chassis that causes the problems as that will hold the salt & moisture, causing the most damage.)
M
Thanks for all the advice.
Thinking aloud – on this forum, spurred me on to resolving the rust concern straight away. I do wish to use the Shogun from about the end of December and I didn’t think I could do nothing. The truck is at a workshop, being made ready for the road and they have kindly agreed to allow me to clean up and paint over the next couple of days.
I’ve some Bilt Hamber rust killer/barrier system paint & anti corrosion cavity wax to apply and that should see me through this winter at least.
Thanks again.
Thinking aloud – on this forum, spurred me on to resolving the rust concern straight away. I do wish to use the Shogun from about the end of December and I didn’t think I could do nothing. The truck is at a workshop, being made ready for the road and they have kindly agreed to allow me to clean up and paint over the next couple of days.
I’ve some Bilt Hamber rust killer/barrier system paint & anti corrosion cavity wax to apply and that should see me through this winter at least.
Thanks again.
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