Rustproofing a new build
Discussion
Assuming a Tomcat is being build with a good Discovery 1 chassis which has been shot blasted and checked for corrosion then supplied in bare metal:
After welding the roll cage structure to the chassis what is the best approach to rust proofing?
Would it be better to spray the bare chassis with weld through primer as soon after blasting as possible?
What are your thoughts about waxing inside the chassis after the cage has been welded on?
100SRV
After welding the roll cage structure to the chassis what is the best approach to rust proofing?
Would it be better to spray the bare chassis with weld through primer as soon after blasting as possible?
What are your thoughts about waxing inside the chassis after the cage has been welded on?
100SRV
wuckfitracing said:
Having raced one for a wee while, waxoil, and loads of paint as they get scratched back to bare metal offroad.
The bits that get scratched up tend not to be where the rot sets in though... 
Start off with the zinc & powder, then when it gets scratched up, touch up with waxoyl/paint.
M
Hi,
thank you for ideas.
I have one with a chassis which dates from 1972 and the RH rail has been decimated from the inside out by tinworm - the hammerite on the outside on 90% of the chassis is fine and has done a good job of protecting it despite 14 years of green laning and road use.
For the waxoyling I suppose if I weld the cage on then tip it on one end and waxoyl it that should get a good coat all over the inside...especially if
regards
100SRV
thank you for ideas.
I have one with a chassis which dates from 1972 and the RH rail has been decimated from the inside out by tinworm - the hammerite on the outside on 90% of the chassis is fine and has done a good job of protecting it despite 14 years of green laning and road use.
For the waxoyling I suppose if I weld the cage on then tip it on one end and waxoyl it that should get a good coat all over the inside...especially if
- the waxoyl is well thinned on application
- multiple coats with a long nozzle
- it is in a warm workshop
- left for a few days
regards
100SRV
Inside the chassis is the best place for the Waxoyl. It is great stuff but bear in mind that it gets everywhere... Especially when you're trying to work on the car. The tools in my toolbox are caked in the stuff!!!
The powdercoat route would mean that once the underside was blasted with a jet-wash, it would be a lot cleaner to work on.
M
The powdercoat route would mean that once the underside was blasted with a jet-wash, it would be a lot cleaner to work on.
M
Watch out for cage distortion with hot dipping. Will need some holes drilling to let hot air escape.
Personally, shot blast, zine primer, paint and waxoyl. Steam clean it regularly and check it over. Better to be looking to rust and weak spots than assume that nothing will appear and miss somehing.
Personally, shot blast, zine primer, paint and waxoyl. Steam clean it regularly and check it over. Better to be looking to rust and weak spots than assume that nothing will appear and miss somehing.
Hello,
I won't be galvanising the frame; I don't mind opening five-bar gates but I don't want to drive one. ;-)
Upon receipt the chassis ends will be cut open, then it will stood with one end higher than the other and be jetwashed from the inside. The chassis will then stored on end inside a dry workshop so that the remaining water can run out. After a few hours I will spray it with light oil inside and out until I can fit the cage structure.
After fitting the cage structure the chassis will be painted with primer then paint and once dry will be again stood on one end and have waxoyl applied on the inside working from the lowest point up. This might take a few coats!
Any flaws?
100SRV
I won't be galvanising the frame; I don't mind opening five-bar gates but I don't want to drive one. ;-)
Upon receipt the chassis ends will be cut open, then it will stood with one end higher than the other and be jetwashed from the inside. The chassis will then stored on end inside a dry workshop so that the remaining water can run out. After a few hours I will spray it with light oil inside and out until I can fit the cage structure.
After fitting the cage structure the chassis will be painted with primer then paint and once dry will be again stood on one end and have waxoyl applied on the inside working from the lowest point up. This might take a few coats!
Any flaws?
100SRV
Sounds good to me. I'd also have a few goes at the inside with the water so that it has time to soak in & loosen the stubborn stuff.
Having gone the waxoyl route myself previously, I'd still prefer the zinc/powder route for the exterior... If you are going to paint, at least consider something like POR15.
M
Having gone the waxoyl route myself previously, I'd still prefer the zinc/powder route for the exterior... If you are going to paint, at least consider something like POR15.
M
2 part Jotun butamastic repair part (it is brushable compared to the "real stuff") aka Frost 2 part chassis paint. About £70 for 5 litres from a good industrial/commercial suppplier. Blast and zinc rich primer from Bilthammer under it or if you want to go real shipbuilding Jotun 78 aluminium primer but that is OTT. Hammerite really does not stop water.. Butamastic is used on ships/oil rigs to stop water and it works; offically you need a UV coating (like hammerite!) if you want to stop it chalking up but not a real issue. Hot dip galvanising is nice but the size of the holes to drain compromise the strength and you get 5 bar gates rotting out from the inside if they do not get into every corner so it needs a Dinotrol etc spray on inside at least.
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