no answer in Landrover section, any help here?

[siwil1]

Hi, I posted the below in the Landrover section but it appears about 2 people visit a year in their !!

Can anyone in here help pls ?


I have a 98 Freelander 1.8 which is used for Dog and mud duties and the immobiliser dosent seem to be de activating, The car opens and you can hear the fuel pump prime but the engine will not turn over. The red light on the dash (alarm) stays on.

Now I dont want to spend a fortune on this so is their any way to bypass the immobiliser or is it a send it to the garage job?

Thanks

[Ledaig]

Not sure how to go about ripping the guts out of the immobiliser, but assuming it works off a transponder in the key, do you have a second key you could try?

[ratboy]

as above, look in the manual and im sure there is a sequence of unlocking the car using the key in the door that reboots the fob, apart from that disconect the battery for a night and let it power down the reconnect and try again?

[siwil1]

Ledaig said:

Not sure how to go about ripping the guts out of the immobiliser, but assuming it works off a transponder in the key, do you have a second key you could try?

The transponder is in the key fob as far as im aware, the key is just a flat blade no electronics in it.

I dont have a spare fob unfortunately

[Ledaig]

siwil1 said:

The transponder is in the key fob as far as im aware, the key is just a flat blade no electronics in it.

I dont have a spare fob unfortunately

I did mean in the key itself, it will just be a sealed transponder - no battery or anything.

Verified from here:

My freelander said:

My FreelanderEngine Immobilisation

Freelander's engine is automatically immobilised as soon as the key is removed from the ignition. The engine is remobilised as soon as the key is inserted and turned in the ignition.

Freelander's engine immobilisation system, which scrambles the engine management Electronic Control Unit, is the ultimate theft deterrent. Even if a thief breaks into the vehicle (setting off the alarm), it cannot be driven. It is impossible to hot wire the system, or to defeat it by attempting to reprogram it.

At the heart of this advanced technology is a coil on the steering lock which communicates with the key transponder as soon as the ignition is switched on. The key in turn talks to the Security Electronic Control Unit, which remobilises the engine by communicating with the Engine Management ECU.

A further advantage of passive engine immobilisation is that it is always automatically activated, even if the driver forgets to lock the doors and set the alarm.

So if you have a second key it's worth trying.

[madmover]

If you send me a PM I can potentially try and send you a place where you can get the relative section of the RAVE manual corresponding to your car... I think if anyone can help you they wouldn't post it on a public forum anyways due to security concerns... Thats my experience in the past and will probably explain why immobilizer posts and alarm posts are often brief or non existent opposed to people not wanting to help etc

Andy

[siwil1]

I thought I would just close off this thread incase someone stumbles on it and needs some help.

It turns out it was the battery post in the remote fob had broken its solder from the board thus the connection was intermittent and gave me the probs as described,It was a very helpful RAC man which diagnosed this. I got the guy in the electrical shop next door to me to re solder it and Bobs your uncles brother now works perfectly.

Hope it helps someone

[Conian]

if id have found this thread in time i could have told you this
happens on my motorbike now and again

might happen less often now i've learned how to solder better