Advice on 80 series Land Cruisers
Discussion
I am looking at buying an 80 series Land Cruiser soon, and I was wondering if anyone had any advice on what to look out for?
I am after a manual 4.2td with front, centre and rear diff locks, preferably a 24 valve model. I know to check that the diff lock lights come on solidly to show that they are working, are there any other specific things to look out for?
I am thinking of spending up to £5k for a nice one, but I do enjoy spannering so one with a few fixable faults would be fine.
I would ideally like a bumper with towing eyes and a winch to go on it as well, does anyone know of any good ones for sale in the UK? Are there any other good mods that can be done without affecting the on-road driveability too much?
Thanks in advance.
I am after a manual 4.2td with front, centre and rear diff locks, preferably a 24 valve model. I know to check that the diff lock lights come on solidly to show that they are working, are there any other specific things to look out for?
I am thinking of spending up to £5k for a nice one, but I do enjoy spannering so one with a few fixable faults would be fine.
I would ideally like a bumper with towing eyes and a winch to go on it as well, does anyone know of any good ones for sale in the UK? Are there any other good mods that can be done without affecting the on-road driveability too much?
Thanks in advance.
I think you will be lucky to get a good 24 valve for that budget, you should find a good 12 valve though. Head over to http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forum/ for loads of Land Cruiser info and knowledge.
IanRubie said:
I think you will be lucky to get a good 24 valve for that budget, you should find a good 12 valve though. Head over to http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forum/ for loads of Land Cruiser info and knowledge.
Yes,however there are a few more basic GS spec ones about, sadly toyota GB buggered them all up with a cheap and nasty aftermarket sun roof fitted at the port, the main thing to watch
out for is rust and obvious mecanical issues otherwise they are like all the toyotas made in the 90s ie very good simple well made solid vehicles that we will
never see again now everything is plastic bumpered electronic laden crap...
A 12 valve would be fine actually, so long as it has the three diff locks fitted (I believe they were standard on the UK spec 24V models but optional on the 12V models). I might be going to look at one next weekend possibly, hopefully it will still be there by then and will be a good one.
chris182 said:
A 12 valve would be fine actually, so long as it has the three diff locks fitted (I believe they were standard on the UK spec 24V models but optional on the 12V models). I might be going to look at one next weekend possibly, hopefully it will still be there by then and will be a good one.
Um I think cross axle locks were standard on all the uk spec 80s there was some change to the center diff not sure but think it went to a viscous type on the later ones ...Yes, axle lockers were standard on all UK spec 80s. They don't all have a centre diff lock switch but the wiring is there you just need to plug one in. Those without the switch low box = locked centre, if you fit the switch you have total control.
The windows can be slow going up, usually fixed by fitting new guide rubbers.
The normal rust areas seem to be above the windscreen and on the upper tailgate under the window.
Some of the manuals are tricky to get into 2nd when cold. Different gear oil can help this.
On a 12 valve make sure the big end bearings have been changed.
The windows can be slow going up, usually fixed by fitting new guide rubbers.
The normal rust areas seem to be above the windscreen and on the upper tailgate under the window.
Some of the manuals are tricky to get into 2nd when cold. Different gear oil can help this.
On a 12 valve make sure the big end bearings have been changed.
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