Just bought my first whole pig head
Discussion
I'm not averse to offal and am happy to eat tongue, kidneys, liver, brains, tripe, sweetbreads and even sheeps' testicles on occasion.
Last week I returned from a week at the office (in Paris) and happened to pick up some Fromage de Tête at Galleries Lafayette. Known as pork brawn or head cheese to some, I used to love this stuff and had forgotten how much. I wish it was easy to find here in the UK. Anyhow, I'd come back with a vague idea in the back of my mind that I should learn how to make it. I have been the owner of Hugh Whittington-Smith(as my mother used to call him)'s MEAT book for many years. In this book are details on how to prepare all kinds of meaty oddities.
This afternoon I popped down to the Old Windsor farm shop to see what goodies they had, and I asked for some pigs trotters and some pig ears. They had pig cheeks vacuum packed on the shelf, so I wondered out loud if they could get me a whole pig head. Actually, we've got one left out back, said the guy behind the counter. So I gulped a bit and asked how much. £4.95 he said. And at that price I decided to have a go. Apparently they sell 5 or 6 a week and most of their customers are wanting to make pork brawn.
Any butchers in here are bound to be laughing at me now, but this is kind of a big thing. A severed animals head is now sitting in my fridge, complete with human-like teeth, gums, eyeballs, eyelashes and a big bloody snout. I hope I have the stomach for it, so I'm going to have a crack at it tomorrow. Wish me luck!
No pictures as I can't quite bring myself to open the bag, and I am sparing you all unnecessary weekend barfage!
Last week I returned from a week at the office (in Paris) and happened to pick up some Fromage de Tête at Galleries Lafayette. Known as pork brawn or head cheese to some, I used to love this stuff and had forgotten how much. I wish it was easy to find here in the UK. Anyhow, I'd come back with a vague idea in the back of my mind that I should learn how to make it. I have been the owner of Hugh Whittington-Smith(as my mother used to call him)'s MEAT book for many years. In this book are details on how to prepare all kinds of meaty oddities.
This afternoon I popped down to the Old Windsor farm shop to see what goodies they had, and I asked for some pigs trotters and some pig ears. They had pig cheeks vacuum packed on the shelf, so I wondered out loud if they could get me a whole pig head. Actually, we've got one left out back, said the guy behind the counter. So I gulped a bit and asked how much. £4.95 he said. And at that price I decided to have a go. Apparently they sell 5 or 6 a week and most of their customers are wanting to make pork brawn.
Any butchers in here are bound to be laughing at me now, but this is kind of a big thing. A severed animals head is now sitting in my fridge, complete with human-like teeth, gums, eyeballs, eyelashes and a big bloody snout. I hope I have the stomach for it, so I'm going to have a crack at it tomorrow. Wish me luck!
No pictures as I can't quite bring myself to open the bag, and I am sparing you all unnecessary weekend barfage!
I haven't exactly figured that part out yet. I'm scouring recipes to see what I need to buy from the supermarket, but it looks like I already have most of what's needed, except perhaps a dry white wine and vinegar which most recipes I've seen call for.
For some reason I feel like I have more faith in a German or French recipe as both of those countries have a long tradition of making brawn.
In general terms though, the technique seems to be to simmer the head and trotters in wine, water, vinegar aromatics and spices until the meat is falling off the bone, and then to pack chunky pieces of meat and liquid into a form and let it set in the fridge. I'm really not sure about eyeballs though...
For some reason I feel like I have more faith in a German or French recipe as both of those countries have a long tradition of making brawn.
In general terms though, the technique seems to be to simmer the head and trotters in wine, water, vinegar aromatics and spices until the meat is falling off the bone, and then to pack chunky pieces of meat and liquid into a form and let it set in the fridge. I'm really not sure about eyeballs though...
Ingredients
1 pig’s head (4-5kg)
1 pig’s trotter
1 large onion, halved
3 star anise
4 bay leaves
8 sprigs of tarragon, leaves picked
2 tsp of red wine vinegar
Method
First, use a cloth dampened with hot water to wipe down the pig head, taking care to wash any mud, grime and wax off. Cut the ears from the head using a sharp knife, and put these and the trotter in a bowl full of warm water and again wipe to ensure the wax and dirt is removed. Use a disposable razor to shave any whiskers and stubble from the head. Cut the flesh attaching the eyelashes away with a sharp knife.
That’s the visceral stuff done. Have a coffee or a stiff drink.
Put the head into a large stockpot and cover with cold water. Add the trotter, ears, onion, star anise and bay leaves. Bring to the boil and then reduce to a simmer for 3-3½ hours, when the flesh will be soft and pull away from the head if you prod it.
Remove the ears after 2 hours, rinse and leave to cool. You will need to spoon scum from the surface of the simmering water from time to time.
Once cooked, pour the stock through a colander into another large container. Carefully lift the head out and leave to cool on a platter for 20 mins.
Tip about 2 litres of stock back into the stockpot and reduce by half. Tip into a container and leave to cool, then refrigerate overnight. This allows the stock to settle – leaving gristle at the bottom, fat on top. We want the jelly-like middle bit.
Meanwhile, return to the head and pick the meat from it. It’s best to use your hands. You’ll find plenty of meat in the cheeks, behind the jaw, in the tongue if it’s there (you’ll need to peel). Put all the meat in a container.
Chop one of the ears into very thin slices. Add to the picked meat. You can fry slices of other ear for crackling like salad toppings.
Locate the jowls, the firmer fat that was around the cheeks and has striations of meat throughout. Remove the skin and cut the fat into 1cm dice.
The snout has a kind of firmer, fleshy quality too. Include that in your meaty mix, cover and refrigerate.
The next day, scrape the fat off the top of the jelly-like stock and decant all but the bottom sediment into a saucepan. Gently warm and season with red wine vinegar and a good pinch of salt and pepper.
Chop the tarragon, stir through the pork meat, then tip this into a 2lb/900g terrine mould or loaf tin that’s been lined with clingfilm. Pour the stock over the top – so it covers the meat by about 1cm. Leave to cool for 30 mins, then cover with clingfilm and refrigerate for at least 6 hours.
sublime if done right. very nice with some rustic bread and a nice beer
21TonyK said:
Go for it OP. The most intimidating bit is pulling it apart after you have cooked it!
My grandpa used to make a simple roast, goes well with the pickled apples or cabbage.Nothing squeamish about it, just treat it as a meat/protein source.
Personally I wouldn’t touch eyes though.
Christ. This is the sort of thing my mum would relish doing. She grew up on a farm in the 50s/60s and she's always bringing home bags of pig inners and stuff to make faggots.
Me though, no. I'm too squeamish to cut eyelids off and shave a head before I boil it...
...That's something I'd rather not have written before breakfast...
Although, I'm intrigued to see how it goes for you OP!
Me though, no. I'm too squeamish to cut eyelids off and shave a head before I boil it...
...That's something I'd rather not have written before breakfast...
Although, I'm intrigued to see how it goes for you OP!
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