Boat repair advice:
Discussion
Here we go again!....... 
Have decided to refurb the exterior of the good ship Velocity for this coming season.
I need a bit of advice from those who have worked with exterior wood on their boats.... so all those out there with your large plastic tubs purchased with all that new money need not make comment
(unless it is over 30 years old with mahagony on it)
So far have removed all of the mahogany hand rails, stripped of horrible looking varvinsh and rubbed down smooth, as you can see from the piucs the varnish previously used is some cheap crap:
All stripped, filled, repaired, rubbed down and ready for 1 coat od 50/50 Epifarnes & thinners, 1 coat of 75/25 Epifarnes & Thinners and then 5 coats of Epifarnes 100% making 7 coats in total with a light rub of wet/dry between each coat.
That bit is fine... but I was wondering about the best way to Varnish the wood strips:
Do I;
1. Varnish the underside as above, then fix to boat, fill over bolt holes with hardwood plugs, sand down then varnish top edge as above?
2. Varnish both sides of the wood, at home, where there is no dust etc then fix to the boat, fill in the bolt holes with hardwood plugs, sand down the areas around the plugs and coat with varnish as above sanding between each coat to blend it in?
I prefer route 2 as it means the majority of the varnishing is done at home in controlled conditions.... however am worried about how the job would look after. Any advice please from you boat hardwood experts!!
Have decided to refurb the exterior of the good ship Velocity for this coming season.
I need a bit of advice from those who have worked with exterior wood on their boats.... so all those out there with your large plastic tubs purchased with all that new money need not make comment
(unless it is over 30 years old with mahagony on it)So far have removed all of the mahogany hand rails, stripped of horrible looking varvinsh and rubbed down smooth, as you can see from the piucs the varnish previously used is some cheap crap:
All stripped, filled, repaired, rubbed down and ready for 1 coat od 50/50 Epifarnes & thinners, 1 coat of 75/25 Epifarnes & Thinners and then 5 coats of Epifarnes 100% making 7 coats in total with a light rub of wet/dry between each coat.
That bit is fine... but I was wondering about the best way to Varnish the wood strips:
Do I;
1. Varnish the underside as above, then fix to boat, fill over bolt holes with hardwood plugs, sand down then varnish top edge as above?
2. Varnish both sides of the wood, at home, where there is no dust etc then fix to the boat, fill in the bolt holes with hardwood plugs, sand down the areas around the plugs and coat with varnish as above sanding between each coat to blend it in?
I prefer route 2 as it means the majority of the varnishing is done at home in controlled conditions.... however am worried about how the job would look after. Any advice please from you boat hardwood experts!!
Indeed, all my woodwork is safely inside now 
(and even the 'teak decking' turned out to be teak-effect plastic)
I much preferred to do varnishing at home under controlled conditions, than on a freezing bankside with no power. Slight brushmarks may not be an issue on exterior wood, but for the best, almost glassy, finish I found that foam brushes were much better.
But I agree that completing the plugs before varnishing would be technically better. Up to you!
(and even the 'teak decking' turned out to be teak-effect plastic)
I much preferred to do varnishing at home under controlled conditions, than on a freezing bankside with no power. Slight brushmarks may not be an issue on exterior wood, but for the best, almost glassy, finish I found that foam brushes were much better.
But I agree that completing the plugs before varnishing would be technically better. Up to you!
The best way if at all possible is to create a localised controlled environment on the boat, small plastic tent over each area, you can make hoops of plastic pipe, stanchion to stanchion the full length and then cover the whole boat or just a bit, soon gets nice and warm in there.
Here is a somewhat extreme version:
Here is a somewhat extreme version:
Did someone say where's mickrick?
12 coats of Epifanes PP followed by 2 coats of PU applied by spray under a tent as previously mentioned.
Here's one we did earlier...
Well, you did ask
Seriously though, I wouldn't bother with expensive Epifanes for that. I'd bang some Le Tonkinois on it. Quick and easy, no thinning, no solvents, and no rubbing down between coats.
I used it on my Spuce mast, as it's flexible.
http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/
Or, I'd use Decs Olje http://www.deksolje.com/index.php?langue=en&pa... .
I'd be inclined to do it at home in the warm, both sides, then fit it, plug the holes, give the plugs a couple of coats, then one or two more coats over the whole top when the weather permits.
Bed them down on some sealant around the holes, when you fit them.
Regards,
Mick.
12 coats of Epifanes PP followed by 2 coats of PU applied by spray under a tent as previously mentioned.
Here's one we did earlier...
Well, you did ask
Seriously though, I wouldn't bother with expensive Epifanes for that. I'd bang some Le Tonkinois on it. Quick and easy, no thinning, no solvents, and no rubbing down between coats.
I used it on my Spuce mast, as it's flexible.
http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/
Or, I'd use Decs Olje http://www.deksolje.com/index.php?langue=en&pa... .
I'd be inclined to do it at home in the warm, both sides, then fit it, plug the holes, give the plugs a couple of coats, then one or two more coats over the whole top when the weather permits.
Bed them down on some sealant around the holes, when you fit them.
Regards,
Mick.
Edited by mickrick on Wednesday 8th February 19:50
Looks good mickrick, what are coats of PU?
Tbf, the wood of mine came up lovely after sanding but sanding the 6 bits with a machine took around 15 hours or so but am pleased with how the mahogany came up bearing in mind how it looked.
Will do as recommended, do the lot indoors then when fitted and plugs added /sanded , varnish over with epifanes and a final 2 coats over the whole lot when the weather warms up, jobs a goodun
Tbf, the wood of mine came up lovely after sanding but sanding the 6 bits with a machine took around 15 hours or so but am pleased with how the mahogany came up bearing in mind how it looked.
Will do as recommended, do the lot indoors then when fitted and plugs added /sanded , varnish over with epifanes and a final 2 coats over the whole lot when the weather warms up, jobs a goodun
Epifanes PP here
http://www.toplicht.de/en/shop/farben-lack-oel-und...
Epifanes PU gives UV protection after building it up with PP.
Actually, I used 13 coats of PP, I spent something like €800 on varnish for that deck house!
I did the same on the inside, but used a satin/rubbed effect for the final coat.
I'm having a breather from it for a while. Need to get the coffers up again.
Don't forget we need pictures of progress.
http://www.toplicht.de/en/shop/farben-lack-oel-und...
Epifanes PU gives UV protection after building it up with PP.
Actually, I used 13 coats of PP, I spent something like €800 on varnish for that deck house!
I did the same on the inside, but used a satin/rubbed effect for the final coat.I'm having a breather from it for a while. Need to get the coffers up again.
Don't forget we need pictures of progress.
Will get some pics once the varnishing is complete mickrick.
I had a look at the epifanes you used and that product isn't even offered by my local chandlery or online....
I am using Epifanes high gloss finish suitable for internal and external use, seemed to be the main one on offer at most chandleries.... I think I paid around £29 for a litre, makes me wonder whether I should add a coat or 2 of something else on top?
Its amazing how durable a decent bit of hardwood can be. I have posted pics of the mahogany condition before when fixing the roof and these side rails were not much better, looks awful.... but hardwood can come up lovely with a bit of care attention and detail to prep and sanding, so far really pleased with the results.
Boat is going in for a full antifoul in March. Was thinking about repainting the blue on the hull above the waterline.
Q. How easy is it to repaint a hull (above waterline)?
Do I need to clean/ rub it down and re-paint with a roller?
What about the name? am I best off painting over it? stenciling after?
Any other tips?
Cheers
I had a look at the epifanes you used and that product isn't even offered by my local chandlery or online....
I am using Epifanes high gloss finish suitable for internal and external use, seemed to be the main one on offer at most chandleries.... I think I paid around £29 for a litre, makes me wonder whether I should add a coat or 2 of something else on top?
Its amazing how durable a decent bit of hardwood can be. I have posted pics of the mahogany condition before when fixing the roof and these side rails were not much better, looks awful.... but hardwood can come up lovely with a bit of care attention and detail to prep and sanding, so far really pleased with the results.
Boat is going in for a full antifoul in March. Was thinking about repainting the blue on the hull above the waterline.
Q. How easy is it to repaint a hull (above waterline)?
Do I need to clean/ rub it down and re-paint with a roller?
What about the name? am I best off painting over it? stenciling after?
Any other tips?
Cheers
m0ssy said:
Q. How easy is it to repaint a hull (above waterline)? Do I need to clean/ rub it down and re-paint with a roller?
Very easy. You find a scruffy herbert in a boiler suit and pay him money Or you could organise a PH working party; Bacardi will find it good practice for when he gets SS Dunsnappin while the rest of us will supervise from a safe distance and drink beer...
Simpo Two said:
m0ssy said:
Q. How easy is it to repaint a hull (above waterline)? Do I need to clean/ rub it down and re-paint with a roller?
Very easy. You find a scruffy herbert in a boiler suit and pay him money Or you could organise a PH working party; Bacardi will find it good practice for when he gets SS Dunsnappin while the rest of us will supervise from a safe distance and drink beer...
Have you got your shetland yet simpo? or is it still being fitted out?
m0ssy said:
Boat is going in for a full antifoul in March. Was thinking about repainting the blue on the hull above the waterline.
Q. How easy is it to repaint a hull (above waterline)?
Do I need to clean/ rub it down and re-paint with a roller?
What about the name? am I best off painting over it? stenciling after?
Any other tips?
Cheers
Q. How easy is it to repaint a hull (above waterline)?
Do I need to clean/ rub it down and re-paint with a roller?
What about the name? am I best off painting over it? stenciling after?
Any other tips?
Cheers
Roller and tip off with a brush works well with Awgrip.
You can buy the hardener and thinners especially for roller and brush application.
It will only be as good as the preperation though. Take the name off, and re-apply it after a shiny new paint job.
Stickers are very impressive these days. I know a guy here who does real turned Gold and platinumn leaf with stickers. Luurvely!
You can buy the hardener and thinners especially for roller and brush application.
It will only be as good as the preperation though. Take the name off, and re-apply it after a shiny new paint job.
Stickers are very impressive these days. I know a guy here who does real turned Gold and platinumn leaf with stickers. Luurvely!
mickrick said:
Roller and tip off with a brush works well with Awgrip.
You can buy the hardener and thinners especially for roller and brush application.
It will only be as good as the preperation though. Take the name off, and re-apply it after a shiny new paint job.
Stickers are very impressive these days. I know a guy here who does real turned Gold and platinumn leaf with stickers. Luurvely!
Thanks for the reply mickrick You can buy the hardener and thinners especially for roller and brush application.
It will only be as good as the preperation though. Take the name off, and re-apply it after a shiny new paint job.
Stickers are very impressive these days. I know a guy here who does real turned Gold and platinumn leaf with stickers. Luurvely!
um... in laymans terms would I....
rub down all blue with an electric orbital sander filling any defects? if so what would be the suggested filler?
Use perhaps 80 grit and finishing off with 240 when sanding?
Paint with the blue coating with a roller/ brush as per your suggestion then finish off with some kind of topcoat from awlgrip?
is this the stuff?:
http://www.marineware.com/index.php?option=com_con...
Yep, that's the stuff. Without seeing your boat, I wouldn't know what it's been painted with before. but you'd need to make sure there isn't going to be any reaction with the paint and primer you're going to use. But usually the 545 primer is O.K. with most stuff.
But you will have to flat it before priming, and filling, and re-priming the filler.
As I said, the preperation will define the final finish.
In the past I guide coat the primer (A light dusting with a black aerosol) then nib it off to expose any low spots. On a hull, I would use a long board to loose any ripples.
I would do the initial flatting of the old paint with something like 220, then move onto 400 0r 600 for flatting the primer. (I used to use 800 for cars).
It's been a few years since I did any painting myself though.
If you doo use Awlgrip, invest in the best respirator, and protective gear you can get.
It's very nasty stuff!
I sprayed a mast with it many years ago, in Spain, in the summer. I was wearing flip flops, and it made my feet tingle!
Pictures, we need pictures!
But you will have to flat it before priming, and filling, and re-priming the filler.
As I said, the preperation will define the final finish.
In the past I guide coat the primer (A light dusting with a black aerosol) then nib it off to expose any low spots. On a hull, I would use a long board to loose any ripples.
I would do the initial flatting of the old paint with something like 220, then move onto 400 0r 600 for flatting the primer. (I used to use 800 for cars).
It's been a few years since I did any painting myself though.
If you doo use Awlgrip, invest in the best respirator, and protective gear you can get.
It's very nasty stuff!
I sprayed a mast with it many years ago, in Spain, in the summer. I was wearing flip flops, and it made my feet tingle!
Pictures, we need pictures!
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