Types of watch mechanisms

[benjdr]

Hi chaps,

I've been looking into getting myself a new watch recently. I've had a Tissot PR100 for nearly 5 years, since my 18th birthday, but have recently found myself wanting a change. I've been looking around but have found myself getting a bit confused when it comes to the inside workings of the watch, and the related costs.

So, could anyone give a quick run down of the main differences in price, quality, accuracy and anything else notable between different types (Mechanical, Automatic, Quartz...etc) of watch.?

Cheers.

[hutchingsp]

Mechanical is just that, you wind the movement up.

Automatic means the movement of your arm/wrist keeps the movement wound.

Quartz means it's battery driven.

Quartz will be the most accurate, not sure there should be anything in accuracy terms between mechanical and automatic.

Generally speaking unless you're spending a couple of grand or so anything you buy will have a fairly generic movement in it, the manufacturer may have tinkered with it but you're primarily paying for the casework and of course branding/reputation etc.

It's one of those bizarre things where a 99p quartz off the local market will be vastly more accurate than almost any mechanical watch at any price, you're paying primarily for engineering and quality.

[pastrana72]

hutchingsp said:

Mechanical is just that, you wind the movement up.

Automatic means the movement of your arm/wrist keeps the movement wound.

Quartz means it's battery driven.

Quartz will be the most accurate, not sure there should be anything in accuracy terms between mechanical and automatic.

Generally speaking unless you're spending a couple of grand or so anything you buy will have a fairly generic movement in it, the manufacturer may have tinkered with it but you're primarily paying for the casework and of course branding/reputation etc.

It's one of those bizarre things where a 99p quartz off the local market will be vastly more accurate than almost any mechanical watch at any price, you're paying primarily for engineering and quality.

well said

[Pesty]

Quartz are generaly more reliable and definately more accurate. Most Automatic watches will lose/gain secinds a day.

My best auto gains around a minute a week one of My poljots will gain a minute a day. Compare that against My Seiko pilots which gains around a second a fortnight. ( yes I am that sad) However my Omega Quartz is terible for keeping time.

so why buy an automatic? Mainly becuase I like to see the workmanship in all the little cogs and wheels spinning around

If we could liken it to cars I guess some would say A mitsubisi Lancer in the hands of most will perform as well as a Lamborghini and not break down as much.

Which would you rather have.

ps Not dissing Jap cars I love em

[The Leaper]

I have an Omega Seamaster Professional and I opted for the quartz version because of a) accuracy of timekeeping and b) known reliability, as it's my everyday, go everywhere watch. It's almost 100% accurate. I get it fully serviced maybe every 3-4 years.

I also have a Porsche Design PO11 automatic. This goes motor-racing and places where robustness might be an issue. It stops working if I do not wear it for a couple of days and it's also is less acurate....maybe it loses a minute or so a week.

Love 'em both.

So, as for mechanism, choose by how you're going to use the watch is my advice.

R.

[tertius]

hutchingsp said:

Mechanical is just that, you wind the movement up.

Automatic means the movement of your arm/wrist keeps the movement wound.

Quartz means it's battery driven.

Strictly, mechanical may be either hand wound or automatic - they are types of mechanical movement. The only difference being that the main spring of a handwound watch is would by turning the crown by hand, with an automatic the mainspring is turned by an eccentric rotor, which is itself "turned" by the movement of the wearer.

Here is a handwound movement:



and here is a pretty common automatic movement (ETA 2824), you can see the rotor clearly:



Typically an automatic movement will be thicker than a handwound due to the space required by the rotor, accordingly the thinnest (or most space-constrained mechanical movements, think JLC Reverso Duo) are handwound.

[sparkyhx]

my ORIS's accuracy varies between winter and summer - in the summer its about 5 secs fast per day and in winter about 15 secs slow , My Girard Perregaux in the week I have owned it has gained 17 secs in 9 days.

still nowhere near Quartz accuracy but not that bad.

Like everyone says its the 'engineering' side that attracts people. One factor that people who are just getting into watches don't think about is the cost of ownership. Similarly leather straps need replacing. 'Branded ones' are silly money.

If you buy an 'expensive quartz' then you are looking at £60 - £100 for a battery change and reseal (assuming its water resistent as I have only got experience of these). For a mechanical watch you are probably looking at between £200 and silly money for a manufacturers service.

Expensive watches are a committment.

P.S. I really like Tissot design, I think they do some really nice stuff.

There are of course some hybrid mechanical and electrical ones e.g. seiko kinetic which are 'charged' by the movement of the wrist, and variations on this

Edited by sparkyhx on Sunday 15th July 21:56

[Pesty]

sparkyhx said:

If you buy an 'expensive quartz' then you are looking at £60 - £100 for a battery change and reseal (assuming its water resistent as I have only got experience of these).

I got sick of Paying £40-£60 for a battery that lasts a year generaly so I decided to DIY

Battery 99p Case back removeal device £20 its a dress watch so not bothered about the seal however its in good condition anyway Im sure you could buy a seal somewhere for pence anyway

Edited by Pesty on Monday 16th July 19:31