Do you have a self-imposed price limit on Microbrands?
Discussion
I was having a discussion with a 'watch' friend of mine about some lesser known brands / microbrands, mostly unknown to non-watch people, and a lot of the time not even known that well amongst watch fans too.
So we were talking about pricing, and he said he wouldn't spend more than £1,000 on a 'microbrand' watch, regardless of movement quality etc. Which I thought was an interesting take, as I like a few watches around that price range (and some higher) that have some sort of modified, bought in movement, usually Sellita/Miyota.
For me it's usually the design aspect that catches my eye, as the movements are usually nothing spectacular. But being a small brand they can put a lot of time and money into design and finishing. So some of the watches can end up looking amazing, but how close can you get to lightly used Tudor / Grand Seiko money and still perceive a microbrand as good value for money?
So we were talking about pricing, and he said he wouldn't spend more than £1,000 on a 'microbrand' watch, regardless of movement quality etc. Which I thought was an interesting take, as I like a few watches around that price range (and some higher) that have some sort of modified, bought in movement, usually Sellita/Miyota.
For me it's usually the design aspect that catches my eye, as the movements are usually nothing spectacular. But being a small brand they can put a lot of time and money into design and finishing. So some of the watches can end up looking amazing, but how close can you get to lightly used Tudor / Grand Seiko money and still perceive a microbrand as good value for money?
Bob_Defly said:
So we were talking about pricing, and he said he wouldn't spend more than £1,000 on a 'microbrand' watch, regardless of movement quality etc. Which I thought was an interesting take, as I like a few watches around that price range (and some higher) that have some sort of modified, bought in movement, usually Sellita/Miyota.
Don't have a self imposed budget per se, but would struggle to justify to myself spending more than £500 on a microbrand. Personally, the design aspect is a big part, but the movement is equally as important. If it's a Miyota / Seiko / Cheaper Chinese movements I'd consider them almost throwaway watches. Don't know of a local watchmaker so won't know how easy it is to get it serviced if the Microbrand ceases to exists in a few years time.My Formex Essence was £1,500-odd, but it is COSC.
Otherwise, I'm a little surprised to discover I don't have many microbrands anymore.
Magrette (x3) = £700 or so each
Steinhart = £400
Omologato = £400
There's no conscious price limit, but when my entire collection was stolen a few years ago, I began to 'upgrade' to fewer, more expensive watches from bigger brands.
Otherwise, I'm a little surprised to discover I don't have many microbrands anymore.
Magrette (x3) = £700 or so each
Steinhart = £400
Omologato = £400
There's no conscious price limit, but when my entire collection was stolen a few years ago, I began to 'upgrade' to fewer, more expensive watches from bigger brands.
For entry level microbrands using Seiko or Miyota movements, £500 seems a sensible price to get yourself a well made and nicely styled watch.
Some of the higher end microbrands are using Sellita or Eta movements and cost over £1k, which I'd spend if I thought the quality justified it. There's usually enough information online to make an informed decision I think.
Some of the higher end microbrands are using Sellita or Eta movements and cost over £1k, which I'd spend if I thought the quality justified it. There's usually enough information online to make an informed decision I think.
Doofus said:
....
Omologato = £400
....
Omologato are probably the only microbrand that I'm tempted to buy. They at least have a decent theme to each watch, mostly in collaboration/approval of the circuit/race/car/etc being celebrated, rather than generic diver/dress/field watches that other brands offer (which to my uneducated eyes are no better than a random Ali-Express special).Omologato = £400
....
No idea why I have the figure of £400 in my head, but £400 it is...
I wouldn't spend more than that on a microbrand as once I go over that, I would rather put the money towards something (used) from a bigger brand. It only takes 3 or 4 microbrand purchases at that level before you realise "I could have bought a lovely Omega Aqua Terra/Seamaster, or a Breitling, or a Tudor..."
...and so on. I have owned a few microbrand watches, but ultimately I have just not loved them or worn them, and ended up selling them.
I wouldn't spend more than that on a microbrand as once I go over that, I would rather put the money towards something (used) from a bigger brand. It only takes 3 or 4 microbrand purchases at that level before you realise "I could have bought a lovely Omega Aqua Terra/Seamaster, or a Breitling, or a Tudor..."
...and so on. I have owned a few microbrand watches, but ultimately I have just not loved them or worn them, and ended up selling them.
enzo_ferrari said:
A mate sent me a link to a Christopher Ward recently and I nearly fell off my chair when I saw the price they are now.
Are they still a microbrand?
Others may feel differently, but IMO they aren't a microbrand. Are they still a microbrand?
Personally I really like CW. I don't own one, but I really like many of their models.
enzo_ferrari said:
A mate sent me a link to a Christopher Ward recently and I nearly fell off my chair when I saw the price they are now.
Are they still a microbrand?
They are still relatively unknown, but some of their movements are very nice, and way above the bought in movements of many other microbrands.Are they still a microbrand?
I'd normally consider a microbrand to come in at under £1000 but some of them offer something different so I'd pay more. I'd buy an An Ordain in a heartbeat if I didn't have to wait 3 years on a waiting list. The hand-crafted enamel dials justify the cost despite the more workman like movement.
That said, there's the mother of pearl dial Fears Brunswick Aurora. It's a lovely looking thing but despite the great dial, it costs about £4k and has a basic ETA movement. That's too rich for my taste for what it is for me despite loving the watch.
I only have one microbrand watch, a Steinhart OVM mil sub homage. I paid £300 new from Gunther a few years ago and its fantastic value and looks great. It's my beater watch and only gets worn when I'm gardening or doing DIY, etc. I like the Studio Underdog Goofy Panda and think the price is spot on for what you get. Mainly, I'd say sub £1000 is about right unless there's a unique selling point like an advanced dial.
That said, there's the mother of pearl dial Fears Brunswick Aurora. It's a lovely looking thing but despite the great dial, it costs about £4k and has a basic ETA movement. That's too rich for my taste for what it is for me despite loving the watch.
I only have one microbrand watch, a Steinhart OVM mil sub homage. I paid £300 new from Gunther a few years ago and its fantastic value and looks great. It's my beater watch and only gets worn when I'm gardening or doing DIY, etc. I like the Studio Underdog Goofy Panda and think the price is spot on for what you get. Mainly, I'd say sub £1000 is about right unless there's a unique selling point like an advanced dial.
Bob_Defly said:
They are still relatively unknown, but some of their movements are very nice, and way above the bought in movements of many other microbrands.
Christopher Ward sell 25,000 watches a year now, and many of their watches feature their in-house movements such as the Calibre SH21 and SH21 V2, as well as their much-praised Bel Canto FS01 'hourly chime' module. So 'relatively unknown' is a term that is, well, relative.
CW are certainly well known by anyone with a casual interest in watches and horology.
Mont Blanc said:
Bob_Defly said:
They are still relatively unknown, but some of their movements are very nice, and way above the bought in movements of many other microbrands.
Christopher Ward sell 25,000 watches a year now, and many of their watches feature their in-house movements such as the Calibre SH21 and SH21 V2, as well as their much-praised Bel Canto FS01 'hourly chime' module. So 'relatively unknown' is a term that is, well, relative.
CW are certainly well known by anyone with a casual interest in watches and horology.
I went through a real micro-brand phase and must have about 20.
A bit variable in terms of quality and some are too novel for me to wear that much.
Some really nice ones though. In that group Vilhelm, RZE, MWW, Evant and some others.
I have an Obris Morgan that has the best bezel of any watch I’ve ever tried at any price. So well engineered with these positive clicks.
A Meccaniche Veneziane that often gets commented on, people assume its very expensive in fact I picked it up off eBay for USD$120.
Sometimes when the hype has worn off you can pick micro-brands up very cheaply second hand. Some do hold their value though. Furlan Marri were selling second hand for three times the actual price at one point - for a mechaquartz! Over £1,200 for a £400 watch from Kickstarter. Crazy.
Ventus - I ended up with four. Great value. I didn’t need four different colours though. Two are bronze - remember when that was the big thing?
Ikepod and Olto8 - nice but too much of a novelty.
Some brands disappeared after their first watch but some have gone on to improve and now have a good range.
Also interesting to see how the big watch brands jump on some of the ideas. Forged carbon is one. Vilhelm did that before any of the bigger companies (as far as I’m aware).
Same with reclaimed plastic from the sea.
I should really sell some of the collection but can’t be arsed.
Happy to stick some photos on here if any one wants to see the different models.
Wearing this today:
https://www.maswatch.com/shop-1/aburi-salmon-arcti...
The most expensive:
https://www.vilhelmwatches.com/products/vilhelm-ta...
A bit variable in terms of quality and some are too novel for me to wear that much.
Some really nice ones though. In that group Vilhelm, RZE, MWW, Evant and some others.
I have an Obris Morgan that has the best bezel of any watch I’ve ever tried at any price. So well engineered with these positive clicks.
A Meccaniche Veneziane that often gets commented on, people assume its very expensive in fact I picked it up off eBay for USD$120.
Sometimes when the hype has worn off you can pick micro-brands up very cheaply second hand. Some do hold their value though. Furlan Marri were selling second hand for three times the actual price at one point - for a mechaquartz! Over £1,200 for a £400 watch from Kickstarter. Crazy.
Ventus - I ended up with four. Great value. I didn’t need four different colours though. Two are bronze - remember when that was the big thing?
Ikepod and Olto8 - nice but too much of a novelty.
Some brands disappeared after their first watch but some have gone on to improve and now have a good range.
Also interesting to see how the big watch brands jump on some of the ideas. Forged carbon is one. Vilhelm did that before any of the bigger companies (as far as I’m aware).
Same with reclaimed plastic from the sea.
I should really sell some of the collection but can’t be arsed.
Happy to stick some photos on here if any one wants to see the different models.
Wearing this today:
https://www.maswatch.com/shop-1/aburi-salmon-arcti...
The most expensive:
https://www.vilhelmwatches.com/products/vilhelm-ta...
Edited by jdw100 on Wednesday 29th May 02:57
Edited by jdw100 on Wednesday 29th May 03:04
Bob_Defly said:
Hence the word relatively. I've been a CW customer for ten years and have yet to meet someone outside of horology that has heard of them.
I would totally agree that most people haven't heard of them, but I honestly wouldn't use the horological knowledge of the general public as a yardstick of watch brand notability. I tend to think horology is like trainspotting. If you aren't 'into it' then you will likely know almost nothing.
The vast majority of people couldn't name any watch brand apart from Rolex and possibly Casio or Swatch. When pressed, they would likely claim that Michael Kors was also a well known watchmaker.
My Dad would probably claim he has a 'reasonable interest' in watches, and often likes to have a browse of the used watch dealers windows in the Burlington Arcade as he passes. Yet he questioned, he doesn't have a clue who Richard Mille, JLC, Vacheron Constantin, IWC, or Audemars Piguet are. He would know who Rolex, Omega, Cartier, and Breitling were.
This was all a very long and boring way of saying: Personally, I think CW are well known. The fact that people outside horology haven't heard of them doesn't really mean anything.
Just my opinion of course, and I have been wrong on many, many occasions!
Microbrands thread here:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Still haven't gotten around to getting a Straton.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Still haven't gotten around to getting a Straton.
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