'87 Camaro follow-up questions
Discussion
Hi all, from my earlier thread, I've borrowed said Camaro for the weekend to check her over.
A few questions if you wouldn't mind, since I'm not too familiar with this model.
What should oil pressure read? This ones about 30 on tick-over, rises up to 50-ish when revving.
What does the lever on the right side of the steering column do, the one behind the hazard switch?
What is the button and switch for thats in front of my right knee, under the dash?
Are rubbers and other perishables available in the UK or just the US?
I see no rust on the rear arches, there is some under the leading edge of the hood (see I got the Yank terminology organised!) and around the two white lights in the grille, which I assume are fog lights, which also don't seem to work.
Any other things I should look for appreciated.
Cheers
Andy.
A few questions if you wouldn't mind, since I'm not too familiar with this model.
What should oil pressure read? This ones about 30 on tick-over, rises up to 50-ish when revving.
What does the lever on the right side of the steering column do, the one behind the hazard switch?
What is the button and switch for thats in front of my right knee, under the dash?
Are rubbers and other perishables available in the UK or just the US?
I see no rust on the rear arches, there is some under the leading edge of the hood (see I got the Yank terminology organised!) and around the two white lights in the grille, which I assume are fog lights, which also don't seem to work.
Any other things I should look for appreciated.
Cheers
Andy.
alinton said:
Hi all, from my earlier thread, I've borrowed said Camaro for the weekend to check her over.
A few questions if you wouldn't mind, since I'm not too familiar with this model.
What should oil pressure read? This ones about 30 on tick-over, rises up to 50-ish when revving.
What does the lever on the right side of the steering column do, the one behind the hazard switch?
What is the button and switch for thats in front of my right knee, under the dash?
Are rubbers and other perishables available in the UK or just the US?
I see no rust on the rear arches, there is some under the leading edge of the hood (see I got the Yank terminology organised!) and around the two white lights in the grille, which I assume are fog lights, which also don't seem to work.
Any other things I should look for appreciated.
Cheers
Andy.
"Borrowed" dont you mean bought....A few questions if you wouldn't mind, since I'm not too familiar with this model.
What should oil pressure read? This ones about 30 on tick-over, rises up to 50-ish when revving.
What does the lever on the right side of the steering column do, the one behind the hazard switch?
What is the button and switch for thats in front of my right knee, under the dash?
Are rubbers and other perishables available in the UK or just the US?
I see no rust on the rear arches, there is some under the leading edge of the hood (see I got the Yank terminology organised!) and around the two white lights in the grille, which I assume are fog lights, which also don't seem to work.
Any other things I should look for appreciated.
Cheers
Andy.
For parts i normally use Rockautos in the states......http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php Excellent service and better than most parts suppliers in this country.Popular rust spots are - behind the headlight on the front panel, inner wheel wells or rear arched, bottom of doors, front of bonnet (hood 
)
most parts for these cars are off the shelf in the UK, but often cheaper to buy from US suppliers like Rock Autos, NPD, Classic Industries or from US ebay.
can't help with the switches as haven't had a 3rd gen for a while.. checkout www.thirdgen.org
)most parts for these cars are off the shelf in the UK, but often cheaper to buy from US suppliers like Rock Autos, NPD, Classic Industries or from US ebay.
can't help with the switches as haven't had a 3rd gen for a while.. checkout www.thirdgen.org
Edited by chevy-stu on Saturday 1st May 20:36
Thanks all so far, during my inspection I've found some rust on the centre panel between the two removable top panels. Obviously water seeps in there and just collects.
I wonder how easy thats to fix?
This car has been sitting outside, rarely driven for about 2 years. So the all the rubbers look a bit iffy and rust is starting to show itself there, a little at the top corner of the windscreen, and as the bottom corner of the windscreen has been leaking under there where the VIN number is is rusty, and the screen itself is starting to delaminate.
I offered the guy silly money, if he goes for it I'll take it, just to stop it turning to sh!t.
A.
I wonder how easy thats to fix?
This car has been sitting outside, rarely driven for about 2 years. So the all the rubbers look a bit iffy and rust is starting to show itself there, a little at the top corner of the windscreen, and as the bottom corner of the windscreen has been leaking under there where the VIN number is is rusty, and the screen itself is starting to delaminate.
I offered the guy silly money, if he goes for it I'll take it, just to stop it turning to sh!t.
A.
alinton said:
What does the lever on the right side of the steering column do, the one behind the hazard switch?
That sounds like the steering wheel height adjustment.alinton said:
What is the button and switch for thats in front of my right knee, under the dash?
Under the dash? Do you mean the switch under the cigerette lighter or lower down? If so it sounds like something that's been added afterwards. There's a good chance it'll be the rear foglight or someone has fitted an overide switch for the cooling fan.alinton said:
Are rubbers and other perishables available in the UK or just the US?
You could try UK suppliers but I doubt they'll have them on the shelf so they will probably order them from the USA. In which case I'd just bypass that and get them from somewhere like www.rockauto.com. They deliver within a few days straight from the USA and it'll probably cost you the same (if not more) to get them in the UK.Edited by IROC-Z on Saturday 1st May 23:02
The steering height adj is on the left, the lever of the right appears to allow the ing switch to go to the lock position, and release the key. Is that right?
The button and switch I mentioned are below the dash, the switch is def an addition, the black button could be. No idea what they do.
I've also got an LED sticking up in the centre console. I imagine this lot might be something to do with an alarm.
Whats the story with a fan override then?
A.
The button and switch I mentioned are below the dash, the switch is def an addition, the black button could be. No idea what they do.
I've also got an LED sticking up in the centre console. I imagine this lot might be something to do with an alarm.
Whats the story with a fan override then?
A.
alinton said:
The steering height adj is on the left, the lever of the right appears to allow the ing switch to go to the lock position, and release the key. Is that right?
Do you mean this?
In which case yes, I assume it's some kind of safety feature! Have you driven the car? If not then you put the key in and push the lock barrell in slightly before you can turn it to start the car.
alinton said:
The button and switch I mentioned are below the dash, the switch is def an addition, the black button could be. No idea what they do.
Hmmm........
A button and a switch? My guess is one of them might be a rear fog light switch. American cars don't have these fitted from the factory but are a requirement in the UK. This could be attached to the rear bumper or, like my car, someones converted one of the reversing lights into a fog light. Press it and see what it does! (But don't blame me if anything goes bang!)alinton said:
I've also got an LED sticking up in the centre console. I imagine this lot might be something to do with an alarm.
Most likely. alinton said:
Whats the story with a fan override then?
It was just a suggestion as to what second switch under the dash might be. These cars run very hot so I've seen some that have had over ride switches put in to turn the cooling fan on before the temp sensor cuts the fan in. Also if the temp sensor or fan relays have given up the ghost it might have been put in. It's just a guess tho so don't worry too much!alinton said:
Thanks all so far, during my inspection I've found some rust on the centre panel between the two removable top panels. Obviously water seeps in there and just collects.
I wonder how easy thats to fix?
This car has been sitting outside, rarely driven for about 2 years. So the all the rubbers look a bit iffy and rust is starting to show itself there, a little at the top corner of the windscreen, and as the bottom corner of the windscreen has been leaking under there where the VIN number is is rusty, and the screen itself is starting to delaminate.
I offered the guy silly money, if he goes for it I'll take it, just to stop it turning to sh!t.
A.
Complete rubber/weatherstrip sets are available from a number of sources already mentioned. The quality and prices seem to vary according to who you speak to and their experiences.. I wonder how easy thats to fix?
This car has been sitting outside, rarely driven for about 2 years. So the all the rubbers look a bit iffy and rust is starting to show itself there, a little at the top corner of the windscreen, and as the bottom corner of the windscreen has been leaking under there where the VIN number is is rusty, and the screen itself is starting to delaminate.
I offered the guy silly money, if he goes for it I'll take it, just to stop it turning to sh!t.
A.
IROC-Z said:
alinton said:
The steering height adj is on the left, the lever of the right appears to allow the ing switch to go to the lock position, and release the key. Is that right?
Do you mean this?Interesting - behind the lock barrel on this one is a kinda lever, that you have to press to allow the key to rotate fully anti-clockwise and release the key.
Without pressing it the key can't be removed.
Spend a day driving it today. All seems ok except the throttle seems to stick open when changing down, i.e. the revs will stay up at 2,500 - 3,000 rpm with the clutch down.
A blip on the throttle pedal causes it to drop to tickover.
The throttle linkage where the cables attach seem free, so any ideas?
Which reminds me - how the hell does the cruise-control operate? The legends are worn off the stick, so what are the switch positions and whats the centre button for please?
Is there a downloadable owner manual for this car anywhere?
Thanks,
Andy.
alinton said:
Interesting - behind the lock barrel on this one is a kinda lever, that you have to press to allow the key to rotate fully anti-clockwise and release the key.
Without pressing it the key can't be removed.
Spend a day driving it today. All seems ok except the throttle seems to stick open when changing down, i.e. the revs will stay up at 2,500 -3,000 rpm with the clutch down.
A blip on the throttle pedal causes it to drop to tickover.
The throttle linkage where the cables attach seem free, so any ideas?
Which reminds me - how the hell does the cruise-control operate? The legends are worn off the stick, so what are the switch positions and whats the centre button for please?
Is there a downloadable owner manual for this car anywhere?
Thanks,
Andy.
Mine is a 1992 model so I daresay they introduced changes year by year, although curiously my '87 IROC-Z had the same ingnition switch as my '92.Without pressing it the key can't be removed.
Spend a day driving it today. All seems ok except the throttle seems to stick open when changing down, i.e. the revs will stay up at 2,500 -3,000 rpm with the clutch down.
A blip on the throttle pedal causes it to drop to tickover.
The throttle linkage where the cables attach seem free, so any ideas?
Which reminds me - how the hell does the cruise-control operate? The legends are worn off the stick, so what are the switch positions and whats the centre button for please?
Is there a downloadable owner manual for this car anywhere?
Thanks,
Andy.
Not sure about your sticking throttle I'm afraid. The throttle body butterfly valve could be sticking or it could be the throttle position sensor. If this is a TPI car this will be mounted on the left hand side of the throttle body (as you face the car). I highly recommend you check out www.thirdgen.org. There's a huge message forum plus a wealth of technical articles about how to fault find certain common problems.
I don't know if there are downloadable manuals but try searching google and see what you find. I would scan the page of mine but I'm away from home at the moment!
As for the cruise control the picture below should be similar or the same as what you've got in your car. The switch on the stalk is off when it's in the left most position, you click it into the centre to turn the cruise control on. When your at your desired speed, press down the round button you can see on the end of the stalk for a few seconds and you should feel the cruise control engage. The pedal may move away from your foot which is quite weird at first! The right most position of the switch says R/A which is resume/accelerate. With the cruise control engaged you can 'tap' the switch across and this will increase your speed in increments, or hold it in the R/A position and then release it when you're at the speed you want, it'll flick back to the on position. If you have to brake or slow down the cruise control will disengage, you can then flick it across to R/A and this will resume the cruise control.
alinton said:
Thanks for that, v. useful!
Where is that picture from? The switch on this car is actually broke, so I'll need to get a new one "if" I buy the car!
Thanks
Andy.
I'm not sure to be honest, I used google images and just copied the link!Where is that picture from? The switch on this car is actually broke, so I'll need to get a new one "if" I buy the car!
Thanks
Andy.
If you end up needing one I'd use www.rockauto.com or www.moderndaymuscle.com. The latter site has a huge selection of 'new old stock' parts and offers very reasonoble shipping from the US, they also trade on eBay.
Mystery switch may be an ignition cut-out. I had Bauer Millet install one on my 88 IROC when I bought it from them.
Be careful to check for air leak in the throttle body. These engines (5.0 and 5.7) have a wear issue, due to the steel choke spindle wearing an oval hole in the aluminium casting. The most common symptoms are engine rpm not falling immediately in off-throttle situations and/or rough idle - or the motor stalling from idle when drive engaged. Spray a little Eezy-Start around the linkage side of the throttle body while on tick-over. If the motor picks-up, it's leaking.
Mine (5.7 TPI) started leaking around 75,000 miles and the replacement part was something like 600 quid, if my memory serves me.
Be careful to check for air leak in the throttle body. These engines (5.0 and 5.7) have a wear issue, due to the steel choke spindle wearing an oval hole in the aluminium casting. The most common symptoms are engine rpm not falling immediately in off-throttle situations and/or rough idle - or the motor stalling from idle when drive engaged. Spray a little Eezy-Start around the linkage side of the throttle body while on tick-over. If the motor picks-up, it's leaking.
Mine (5.7 TPI) started leaking around 75,000 miles and the replacement part was something like 600 quid, if my memory serves me.
Well as predicted, the 'borrow' turned into 'keep'.
So I do need to sort the revs staying up problem alright. Without having the manual (Must look for a Haynes) how do the butterflies operate? I guess there aren't separate ones for each cylinder.
I had a similar problem in a TVR Cerbera, but each butterfly has a screw that locks it to the spindle. I was able to slacken the screws then 'flick' the butterflies open and closed a few times until they settled more centrally, then tighten the screws.
I wonder if this is possible with the Camaro's engine?
How do I get to the butterflies to see whats going on?
Ta
Andy.
So I do need to sort the revs staying up problem alright. Without having the manual (Must look for a Haynes) how do the butterflies operate? I guess there aren't separate ones for each cylinder.
I had a similar problem in a TVR Cerbera, but each butterfly has a screw that locks it to the spindle. I was able to slacken the screws then 'flick' the butterflies open and closed a few times until they settled more centrally, then tighten the screws.
I wonder if this is possible with the Camaro's engine?
How do I get to the butterflies to see whats going on?
Ta
Andy.
What you have is "Tuned Port Injection" - a throttle body sitting between the low pressure air intake and a high pressure plenum, leading to eight separate intake tubes, each with an electronically actuated fuel injector at it's base.
If the idle/running fault is the same as I experienced on my Camaro, it's the throttle body that you need to replace or re-build. See the section on throttle body bearing up-grade here:
http://www.xtremefi.com/QA.htm
A new OEM part is not cheap. Rodley Motors in Bradford rebuilt mine - but I don't even know if they are in business anymore.
If the idle/running fault is the same as I experienced on my Camaro, it's the throttle body that you need to replace or re-build. See the section on throttle body bearing up-grade here:
http://www.xtremefi.com/QA.htm
A new OEM part is not cheap. Rodley Motors in Bradford rebuilt mine - but I don't even know if they are in business anymore.
chevy-stu said:
Might be good to go to someone with the plug-in OBD diagnostic to check out the sensors.
Good advice - MAF sensor burn-off relay is a very common fault on LT1 Tpi induction system too. If the sensor gets sooted-up due to lack of burn-off heater on shutdown, your fuel/air mixture goes to sh!t in a hurry. Is your check engine light on?
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