Mods for a 4th Gen Camaro Z28
Discussion
As I have been unable to sell my 1995 Z28, I think I have decided to keep it as a weekend toy, despite various other mad ideas nibbling away at me.
Now I have a sensible set of wheels for work, I will not use it every day. At the moment it is standard apart from some after market alloys and a Borla stainless steel exhaust. So, what suggestions are there for a program of mods? I am thinking of suspension/handling mods at first and then working on from there. Any ideas and links would be much appreciated.
Now I have a sensible set of wheels for work, I will not use it every day. At the moment it is standard apart from some after market alloys and a Borla stainless steel exhaust. So, what suggestions are there for a program of mods? I am thinking of suspension/handling mods at first and then working on from there. Any ideas and links would be much appreciated.
If you put a strut brace on and make the front end stiffer the car will probably only twist more in the middle so my next stop for my late 4th gen is sourcing some subframe connectors which should make the car much stiffer all round and save it from the dreaded stress creases in the rear quarters.
It seems a lot have swapped the crap pressed steel torque arm for a better adjustable tubular one too which will help get the power to the ground better rather than absorbing it and also there's the option of moving the front mounting of the torque arm off of the tail of the gearbox and onto a separate crossmember to remove stress from the gearbox. If you're doing this and working in this area I'd suggest having some sort of prop loop too as the propshaft is a known weak-spot in the 4th gen drivetrain. There's also tubular lower control arms available which are much stiffer again than the factory pressed ones.
It seems a lot have swapped the crap pressed steel torque arm for a better adjustable tubular one too which will help get the power to the ground better rather than absorbing it and also there's the option of moving the front mounting of the torque arm off of the tail of the gearbox and onto a separate crossmember to remove stress from the gearbox. If you're doing this and working in this area I'd suggest having some sort of prop loop too as the propshaft is a known weak-spot in the 4th gen drivetrain. There's also tubular lower control arms available which are much stiffer again than the factory pressed ones.
Cam can come out the front if you remove the radiator etc.
See here for a howto guide and info on cam selection http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
Personally I wouldnt go bigger than a 220/224 in an LS1 unless you like something a bit wilder.
See here for a howto guide and info on cam selection http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
Personally I wouldnt go bigger than a 220/224 in an LS1 unless you like something a bit wilder.
http://shbox.com/ci/cam_removal.html
I had a 93 which is the same except for the MAF. I installed a GM Hot Cam kit, it was excellent. Breaks traction into third gear at 70mph
Did a 12.8 quarter mile stock tyres.
What I did with mine was fit it with BMR stuff ewhich is the best cost-effective solution - subframe connectors, strut brace and lower control arms and adjustable panhard bar. The connectors mean you can jack the car without it simply flexing.
Second most cost-effective move was fitting a Bilstein BTS kit which has a listing for the 4th gen.
A good cold-air intake is essential.
The exhaust is a bit of a restriction as the axle will only allow a single pipe over the axle. You could try some pipes exiting in front of the rear wheels with an X-pipe but the clearance is very limited.
Stock brakes aren't too hot. I fitted grooved Powerslot rotors and Hawk performance pads - way better.
Didn't get to put much on my website about vthis car unfortunately.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/471412
Second most cost-effective move was fitting a Bilstein BTS kit which has a listing for the 4th gen.
A good cold-air intake is essential.
The exhaust is a bit of a restriction as the axle will only allow a single pipe over the axle. You could try some pipes exiting in front of the rear wheels with an X-pipe but the clearance is very limited.
Stock brakes aren't too hot. I fitted grooved Powerslot rotors and Hawk performance pads - way better.
Didn't get to put much on my website about vthis car unfortunately.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/471412
LuS1fer said:
The exhaust is a bit of a restriction as the axle will only allow a single pipe over the axle. You could try some pipes exiting in front of the rear wheels with an X-pipe but the clearance is very limited.
How come I have an X pipe and two over the axle then, as do most of the guys running good true dual systems in the US? OK a few go for the easy route and go one under the axle, but there is room under there to get both over its just a bit tight and needs someone with patience to put it together.What supplier did you use for your chassis stuff and the brakes? I'm thinking of shipping some Brembo blanks/ATE rotors to replace my just about knackered current OEM ones this week and the Hawk HPS's seem to be the way to go on pads going by the US gossip. I'm without a tunnel brace too at the moment as there wasn't enough room inside it to get the two exhausts one on top of the other up the side of the trans tunnel with it on so I need one with a bit more of a dip in it. I should be ok for clearance as I'm running stock ride height.
Edited by TheMighty on Thursday 26th February 11:30
TheMighty said:
LuS1fer said:
The exhaust is a bit of a restriction as the axle will only allow a single pipe over the axle. You could try some pipes exiting in front of the rear wheels with an X-pipe but the clearance is very limited.
How come I have an X pipe and two over the axle then, as do most of the guys running good true dual systems in the US? OK a few go for the easy route and go one under the axle, but there is room under there to get both over its just a bit tight and needs someone with patience to put it together.What supplier did you use for your chassis stuff and the brakes? I'm thinking of shipping some Brembo blanks/ATE rotors to replace my just about knackered current OEM ones this week and the Hawk HPS's seem to be the way to go on pads going by the US gossip. I'm without a tunnel brace too at the moment as there wasn't enough room inside it to get the two exhausts one on top of the other up the side of the trans tunnel with it on so I need one with a bit more of a dip in it. I should be ok for clearance as I'm running stock ride height.
I bought the chassis stuff from BMR direct but I understand they've stopped doing that. I got the brake stuff from a company called Redline Motorsports although that's a common name as you'll find when you google it. They specialise in GM stuff IIRC. The Hawks are brilliant but do create dust so you have to keep the wheels washed.
The BMR tunnel brace I had grounded every time I went over the slightest speed hump so I had to ditch it.
I can't honestly recall who I bought the Bilstein BTS kit off - it was the cheapest supplier I could find at the time. I assume they're made in Germany but I think they'd still be cheaper in the US.
Good point, I also had a bilstein setup. I think I got it from either thunderracing or LGM Motorsports. Did sway bars etc as well as Flowmaster catback and rksport headers, K&N Filtercharger setup worked really well too. That made a huge difference.
Do all the other stuff first before you decide on cam. You might find that 1. You have enough power already, or 2. You have spent far too much already.
Do all the other stuff first before you decide on cam. You might find that 1. You have enough power already, or 2. You have spent far too much already.
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