'68 Dodge Coronet upgrades
Discussion
Thought I would upload some pictures following the upgrades I am making to my '68 Dodge Coronet 440.
I bought it a number of years ago as a pale R/T clone. Really only the front and rear R/T badges and the rear stripe hinted at the previous owners attempts to have the more desireable model.
I removed the La Cucaracha air horns, purple undercar neons and various body stickers then set to research what I had. This turned out to be a fairly solid 1968 Dodge Coronet 440 with a three speed column change, power steering but not power brakes. The car sounded tough through the twin cherry bombs that had been 'roughly' welded into place.
A double pumper carb sat on top the 440 and swallowed the whole tank in a little over the 65 mile longest trip I have taken on the Brass Monkey Run to Wells next Sea.
Coupled with the tired steering and suspension, the brakes that needed a weeks notice to stop the 3950lb lump of finest B Body Mopar were on the list to be upgrade as well as the carb. Surely there was a better solution to fuel consumption without sacrificing power?
So, after plenty of reading and watching the various magazines, Youtube and TV programmes it was decided that a Hotchkis TVS kit and Wilwood brakes would be the answer to refresh the underneath of the car.
Having read good things about EFI conversions, I settled for a Holley Sniper EFI kit for the 440. Installation seemed straight forward but the main issue was running a base map then getting dyno time to sort out a reliable map that gave better consumption but without hurting the horsepower.
I also wanted to upgrade the steering so was recommended the Borgeson kit from Bergman Autos which negates the need to cut the steeing column.
So the upgrades start....
I bought it a number of years ago as a pale R/T clone. Really only the front and rear R/T badges and the rear stripe hinted at the previous owners attempts to have the more desireable model.
I removed the La Cucaracha air horns, purple undercar neons and various body stickers then set to research what I had. This turned out to be a fairly solid 1968 Dodge Coronet 440 with a three speed column change, power steering but not power brakes. The car sounded tough through the twin cherry bombs that had been 'roughly' welded into place.
A double pumper carb sat on top the 440 and swallowed the whole tank in a little over the 65 mile longest trip I have taken on the Brass Monkey Run to Wells next Sea.
Coupled with the tired steering and suspension, the brakes that needed a weeks notice to stop the 3950lb lump of finest B Body Mopar were on the list to be upgrade as well as the carb. Surely there was a better solution to fuel consumption without sacrificing power?
So, after plenty of reading and watching the various magazines, Youtube and TV programmes it was decided that a Hotchkis TVS kit and Wilwood brakes would be the answer to refresh the underneath of the car.
Having read good things about EFI conversions, I settled for a Holley Sniper EFI kit for the 440. Installation seemed straight forward but the main issue was running a base map then getting dyno time to sort out a reliable map that gave better consumption but without hurting the horsepower.
I also wanted to upgrade the steering so was recommended the Borgeson kit from Bergman Autos which negates the need to cut the steeing column.
So the upgrades start....
Edited by KevF on Monday 20th March 15:56
Edited by KevF on Monday 20th March 16:55
So not great. First job was to remove the battery prior to starting work only to find a rusty hole where the battery tray sat. Surely not the only rusty bit I will find.
Stripped off front suspension including torsion bars which will be relaced by stiffer Hotchkis versions. Rear leaf springs and drum brakes removed too.
Front had discs although from original, it was fitted with drums up front too. Some time in its past it has had a Dodge / Plymouth disc brake swap. Will sell these off once the Wilwood stuff is on and fitted all ok.
Stripped off front suspension including torsion bars which will be relaced by stiffer Hotchkis versions. Rear leaf springs and drum brakes removed too.
Front had discs although from original, it was fitted with drums up front too. Some time in its past it has had a Dodge / Plymouth disc brake swap. Will sell these off once the Wilwood stuff is on and fitted all ok.
So wheel choice is something I have thought about and the wheels which came on the car just werent what I was looking for.
The idea with this car is to go a Pro Touring route with running gear that gives it a more modern feel with a motor that is tuneable but doesnt lose the American muscle. So with a low purposeful look, it had to be the iconic Torq Thrusts but will also get some 15 inch steels to give it that stockcar look.
Here is a comparison on the wheels. Will propably change the colour to a bronze / gold colour as I think it will complement the body colour. They will be similar to the colour of the Holley Sniper carb.
With a lower stance especially on the rears, I think these will work as long as they clear the Wilwood brake calipers
This is the colour the wheels and some details will be.
Undecided yet whether to stick with original colour or upgrade to a current Dodge Charger colour F8. Quite similar but a bit more flake in it.
The idea with this car is to go a Pro Touring route with running gear that gives it a more modern feel with a motor that is tuneable but doesnt lose the American muscle. So with a low purposeful look, it had to be the iconic Torq Thrusts but will also get some 15 inch steels to give it that stockcar look.
Here is a comparison on the wheels. Will propably change the colour to a bronze / gold colour as I think it will complement the body colour. They will be similar to the colour of the Holley Sniper carb.
With a lower stance especially on the rears, I think these will work as long as they clear the Wilwood brake calipers
This is the colour the wheels and some details will be.
Undecided yet whether to stick with original colour or upgrade to a current Dodge Charger colour F8. Quite similar but a bit more flake in it.
Rear Air shocks compared to the Hotchkis adjustable versions. These new ones feel so well put together.
Hotchkis tubular adjustable A arms will save a load of weigth over stock as well as giving a more dialled in setting.
Rather than saving weight the Hotchkis uprated torsion bars give a much firmer feel to the front end hopefully.
Uprated leaf springs with new mounts and bushings will give it a lower rear stance too.
Hotchkis tubular adjustable A arms will save a load of weigth over stock as well as giving a more dialled in setting.
Rather than saving weight the Hotchkis uprated torsion bars give a much firmer feel to the front end hopefully.
Uprated leaf springs with new mounts and bushings will give it a lower rear stance too.
ZedLeg said:
Colour’s tricky. It looks good in the green but a lighter colour would show off the scat pack stripe. Maybe orange or yellow?
Agree on it being tricky. The rear stripes have been painted on and include the R/T logo which the car isnt. I dont want to build a R/T clone as I would want it to be a true clone an the parts are super tricky to find especially the R/T rear panel.Toying with either no stripe at all but that is a long way off. Want to get all the suspension, brakes etc sorted then drive it this year and then next year do the paint and interior, if I can find a decent set of front bucket seats to replace the front bench.
Looks familiar, think it was for sale a few years back in the Alresford Alton area,
Could be wrong but not many in that shade of green with those wheels,
Been barn stored for a while.
Around the same time there was a genuine race R/T on Minilights in the same colour being advertised in Car & Classic.
Could be wrong but not many in that shade of green with those wheels,
Been barn stored for a while.
Around the same time there was a genuine race R/T on Minilights in the same colour being advertised in Car & Classic.
Edited by rat rod on Monday 20th March 23:06
Rather like the colour myself - yes, the TQ wheels (perhaps in body colour) nothing wrong with going with larger diameter wheels and lower profile tyres (keeping the same rolling radius)......you'll definately get better handling (although perhaps at the cost of ride comfort) - fuel consumption.......more performance........you can have both with sensible selection of tuning components......Fitech's a good start.
Oneball said:
I really like the green and the two blues. I think they look better in the darker shades. No stripe for me too.
Have you considered the additional harshness/noise from Rose joints?
To be fair, I havent but I will go for function over noise. It can't be any worse than my other project car. Have you considered the additional harshness/noise from Rose joints?
rat rod said:
Looks familiar, think it was for sale a few years back in the Alresford Alton area,
Could be wrong but not many in that shade of green with those wheels,
Been barn stored for a while.
Around the same time there was a genuine race R/T on Minilights in the same colour being advertised in Car & Classic.
Sounds like the same one.Apparently had been driven a fair bit before I got it but in good nick. Could be wrong but not many in that shade of green with those wheels,
Been barn stored for a while.
Around the same time there was a genuine race R/T on Minilights in the same colour being advertised in Car & Classic.
Edited by rat rod on Monday 20th March 23:06
Have seen the one on minilites and lloks a real tough car. That was the one that got me going down the pro touring, stockcar kinda vibe.
So, with the running gear removed, I wanted to get a look underneath as I was aware of some repair patches that, although donewell, were left untidy and could use some fettling.
In the strip down process, we removed the fuel tank to have tat cleaned out and checked for rust. All looked good inside that however, on closer inspection the inside of the trunk left a fair bit to be desired. Luckily Dan and the guys DMD Auto services are a dab hand at repairs. rather than risk shipping in a complete floor due to cost and size, I decided to get fresh metal put into the areas as this was nevergoing to be a full resto job
So this was what I found when removing the battery. Will be relocating it to the boot so this needed sorting .
So cut out and new metal welded in.
Still not 100% sure of the actual current paint code so got a close match made which seemed closer than expected.
Trunk floor sorted.
So going back to the current Dodge colour chart, I went for colour F8 added to raptor coat for longevity and to see how the colour comes out. Not 100% sold on it to be honest.
In the strip down process, we removed the fuel tank to have tat cleaned out and checked for rust. All looked good inside that however, on closer inspection the inside of the trunk left a fair bit to be desired. Luckily Dan and the guys DMD Auto services are a dab hand at repairs. rather than risk shipping in a complete floor due to cost and size, I decided to get fresh metal put into the areas as this was nevergoing to be a full resto job
So this was what I found when removing the battery. Will be relocating it to the boot so this needed sorting .
So cut out and new metal welded in.
Still not 100% sure of the actual current paint code so got a close match made which seemed closer than expected.
Trunk floor sorted.
So going back to the current Dodge colour chart, I went for colour F8 added to raptor coat for longevity and to see how the colour comes out. Not 100% sold on it to be honest.
KevF said:
Oneball said:
I really like the green and the two blues. I think they look better in the darker shades. No stripe for me too.
Have you considered the additional harshness/noise from Rose joints?
To be fair, I havent but I will go for function over noise. It can't be any worse than my other project car. Have you considered the additional harshness/noise from Rose joints?
KevF said:
ZedLeg said:
Colour’s tricky. It looks good in the green but a lighter colour would show off the scat pack stripe. Maybe orange or yellow?
Agree on it being tricky. The rear stripes have been painted on and include the R/T logo which the car isnt. I dont want to build a R/T clone as I would want it to be a true clone an the parts are super tricky to find especially the R/T rear panel.Toying with either no stripe at all but that is a long way off. Want to get all the suspension, brakes etc sorted then drive it this year and then next year do the paint and interior, if I can find a decent set of front bucket seats to replace the front bench.
KevF said:
Oneball said:
I really like the green and the two blues. I think they look better in the darker shades. No stripe for me too.
Have you considered the additional harshness/noise from Rose joints?
To be fair, I havent but I will go for function over noise. It can't be any worse than my other project car. Have you considered the additional harshness/noise from Rose joints?
Don't tell me ,one vicar owner from new, still got the bible in the clove box,
rat rod said:
Haven't seen a Minor Traveller Lowlight for years, how rare is that.
Don't tell me ,one vicar owner from new, still got the bible in the clove box,
Its a long story but a couple of mate's built it early 1990's here in Norwich. Loved it when it first hit the road. 350 SBC with 8/71 BDS blower. Webster tube chassis. Got sold a number of times since. Went to the USA, back to Uk then off to New Zealand for a while before coming back here.It was in NZ where the lowlight front was fitted. It originally had the usual Minor front end.Don't tell me ,one vicar owner from new, still got the bible in the clove box,
Followed its path with interest until it turned up on Ebay. Missed out on the auction so guessed it was a lucky miss.
Then 18 months later the winning buyer contacted me out of the blue saying he had been given my name as someone who might be interested. He wasnt a hot rodder but bought it as it 'looked' awesome.Completely out of his depth and openly admits he didnt have a clue on how to drive or look after it.
It's an old build that hasnt been changed much in the near 30 years its been around. Had a number of poor repairs etc so it's currently having some resto/ upgrades to ensure its fit for purpose. Will be back on the road hopefully in a month or two.
Edited by KevF on Tuesday 21st March 11:13
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