FASTCO ENGINES
Discussion
Anyone with any knowledge of them out there, Have been offered a car with one of
there 383 stroker engines but have read some negative reports about them on various forums,
some good but mostly bad, I believe there's more than one builder using this name,
Was told there's one in the States,one in Canada also one in the UK .
It's just that i am thinking of buying a car with one of their engines fitted and with what i've read so far
is quite scary ,mainly wrong parts fitted and half worn internals where it should be all new ,
Just wondered if it was just internet talk or some truth in the matter,
Thanks in advance
there 383 stroker engines but have read some negative reports about them on various forums,
some good but mostly bad, I believe there's more than one builder using this name,
Was told there's one in the States,one in Canada also one in the UK .
It's just that i am thinking of buying a car with one of their engines fitted and with what i've read so far
is quite scary ,mainly wrong parts fitted and half worn internals where it should be all new ,
Just wondered if it was just internet talk or some truth in the matter,
Thanks in advance
Edited by rat rod on Tuesday 5th April 16:36
rat rod said:
Anyone with any knowledge of them out there, Have been offered a car with one of
there 383 stroker engines but have read some negative reports about them on various formums,
some good but mostly bad, I believe there's more than one builder using this name,
Was told there's one in the States,one in Canada also one in the UK .
It's just that i am thinking of buying a car with one of their engines fitted and with what i've read so far
is quite scary ,mainly wrong parts fitted and half worn internals where it should be all new ,
Just wondered if it was just internet talk or some truth in the matter,
Thanks in advance
I've seen much of this 'talk' on forums - seems is 50/50. Doctor Daryll has been around for a fair few years so one would thing he must be doing something right. I seem to recall that he was located in Niagara which, perhaps being on the US/Canada border might explain things a little.there 383 stroker engines but have read some negative reports about them on various formums,
some good but mostly bad, I believe there's more than one builder using this name,
Was told there's one in the States,one in Canada also one in the UK .
It's just that i am thinking of buying a car with one of their engines fitted and with what i've read so far
is quite scary ,mainly wrong parts fitted and half worn internals where it should be all new ,
Just wondered if it was just internet talk or some truth in the matter,
Thanks in advance
At least buying a car with the engine installed and already used mean that you can try it out. Thing is that even the best engine builder whether here or in USA can have an engine go bad. Buddy had a 350 built-up for his Vette some 10 or so years ago by ICE (now at Silverstone) - it was bored plus 60 but one cylinder had a core shift and was porous, totalling the engine. My own engine built by John Sleath 'blew' after 1000 miles or so when no. 1 big end shell broke-up - John also had some issues with what seemed to be a brand of gasket sealant contaminating engines on several racers engines causing major failures.........its not so much the problems that can occur - more the way they are dealt with. How ever you look at it dealing with someone in the 'States is going to cost you dear if something goes wrong and needs to be sent back.
roscobbc said:
I've seen much of this 'talk' on forums - seems is 50/50. Doctor Daryll has been around for a fair few years so one would thing he must be doing something right. I seem to recall that he was located in Niagara which, perhaps being on the US/Canada border might explain things a little.
At least buying a car with the engine installed and already used mean that you can try it out. Thing is that even the best engine builder whether here or in USA can have an engine go bad. Buddy had a 350 built-up for his Vette some 10 or so years ago by ICE (now at Silverstone) - it was bored plus 60 but one cylinder had a core shift and was porous, totalling the engine. My own engine built by John Sleath 'blew' after 1000 miles or so when no. 1 big end shell broke-up - John also had some issues with what seemed to be a brand of gasket sealant contaminating engines on several racers engines causing major failures.........its not so much the problems that can occur - more the way they are dealt with. How ever you look at it dealing with someone in the 'States is going to cost you dear if something goes wrong and needs to be sent back.
Yes i need to give the car a drive,have heard it running for a short while due to it being At least buying a car with the engine installed and already used mean that you can try it out. Thing is that even the best engine builder whether here or in USA can have an engine go bad. Buddy had a 350 built-up for his Vette some 10 or so years ago by ICE (now at Silverstone) - it was bored plus 60 but one cylinder had a core shift and was porous, totalling the engine. My own engine built by John Sleath 'blew' after 1000 miles or so when no. 1 big end shell broke-up - John also had some issues with what seemed to be a brand of gasket sealant contaminating engines on several racers engines causing major failures.........its not so much the problems that can occur - more the way they are dealt with. How ever you look at it dealing with someone in the 'States is going to cost you dear if something goes wrong and needs to be sent back.
in the garage next to his kitchen and because of the fumes entering the house, it was pouring
down so couldn't take it outside either.The oil pressure gauge is reading ok but the oil light was
permanently on , the seller assured me the engine is fine and it just needs a switch, so which one
do you believe the gauge or the light,
Need to take it for a decent drive and warm it up properlyand listen for some rattles: .Engine has done less than 800 miles but was bought from a middle
man in a lock up not direct from Fastco,
Edited by rat rod on Tuesday 5th April 17:00
I've never heard of them, but there certainly seems to be some horror stories on t'web about them after a big of a google.
I'd be wary if its only done 800 miles though........
If it had at least 3 or 4k of use I'd feel a little more comfortable that it's OK, but only 800....that makes my spidey sense tingle
I'd be wary if its only done 800 miles though........
If it had at least 3 or 4k of use I'd feel a little more comfortable that it's OK, but only 800....that makes my spidey sense tingle
aeropilot said:
I've never heard of them, but there certainly seems to be some horror stories on t'web about them after a big of a google.
I'd be wary if its only done 800 miles though........
If it had at least 3 or 4k of use I'd feel a little more comfortable that it's OK, but only 800....that makes my spidey sense tingle
Ye ,there's so much negative comments to ignore, not a cheap engine to have to rebuild again.I'd be wary if its only done 800 miles though........
If it had at least 3 or 4k of use I'd feel a little more comfortable that it's OK, but only 800....that makes my spidey sense tingle
All i can do is give it a long drive and maybe see if i can buy a mechanical oil pressure gauge that will
work on a yank. what with the oil light and the bag press sent alarm bells ringing.
A lot of horror stories about him, he got shunned quite badly recently after selling some rusty blocks. There was also a chap running in Street Eliminator with one of his engines. I'm led to believe he didn't even make it to the track before needing to give the whole thing an overhaul.
In reality though, you're buying a second hand car with one of those engines in, as long as the seller isn't bumping the price up rediculous amounts because of the engine, I would just do my homework and go with it.
Do you have, or can you get a mechanical Oil Pressure gauge? The switches can go bad or even be more sensitive that the gauge and light up at like 20-30psi, which for a SBC is absolutely fine at idle.
In reality though, you're buying a second hand car with one of those engines in, as long as the seller isn't bumping the price up rediculous amounts because of the engine, I would just do my homework and go with it.
Do you have, or can you get a mechanical Oil Pressure gauge? The switches can go bad or even be more sensitive that the gauge and light up at like 20-30psi, which for a SBC is absolutely fine at idle.
Camaro said:
A lot of horror stories about him, he got shunned quite badly recently after selling some rusty blocks. There was also a chap running in Street Eliminator with one of his engines. I'm led to believe he didn't even make it to the track before needing to give the whole thing an overhaul.
In reality though, you're buying a second hand car with one of those engines in, as long as the seller isn't bumping the price up rediculous amounts because of the engine, I would just do my homework and go with it.
Do you have, or can you get a mechanical Oil Pressure gauge? The switches can go bad or even be more sensitive that the gauge and light up at like 20-30psi, which for a SBC is absolutely fine at idle.
I will try to get a mechanical gauge,do you know if it needs to be for a yank or would a british one work??In reality though, you're buying a second hand car with one of those engines in, as long as the seller isn't bumping the price up rediculous amounts because of the engine, I would just do my homework and go with it.
Do you have, or can you get a mechanical Oil Pressure gauge? The switches can go bad or even be more sensitive that the gauge and light up at like 20-30psi, which for a SBC is absolutely fine at idle.
Also should i take more notice of the gauge that's fitted than the oil light itself,only a little windy because of who built the engine
along with the oil light permanently on, Asking top money for the car and will not be a cheap engine to rebuild to the same spec
hence me being cautious . Thanks for any advise.
rat rod said:
Asking top money for the car and will not be a cheap engine to rebuild to the same spec
hence me being cautious .
If the car is top money, I'd be walking (running away) from it, especially with so few miles on it.hence me being cautious .
Not worth the risk imho, even if the oil light and gauge are at fault.
aeropilot said:
rat rod said:
Asking top money for the car and will not be a cheap engine to rebuild to the same spec
hence me being cautious .
If the car is top money, I'd be walking (running away) from it, especially with so few miles on it.hence me being cautious .
Not worth the risk imho, even if the oil light and gauge are at fault.
The seller would have been better off not even mentioning it's a Fastco built engine baring in mind the
bad feedback on the forums then add the oil light to the problem, can't understand why he hasn't sorted that out for what it would cost
if only a switch, Needs to be ready to go at the asking price but don't mind taking a chance but needs to be cheaper.
rat rod said:
can't understand why he hasn't sorted that out for what it would cost
if only a switch, Needs to be ready to go at the asking price but don't mind taking a chance but needs to be cheaper.
Which, in my mind means it's not 'just the switch' as why would you not fix it.....?if only a switch, Needs to be ready to go at the asking price but don't mind taking a chance but needs to be cheaper.
Either way the guy sounds like a complete chancer.
As you say, if it becomes £5k cheaper, then there's an element of risk worth taking in case the engine is a turd.
aeropilot said:
rat rod said:
can't understand why he hasn't sorted that out for what it would cost
if only a switch, Needs to be ready to go at the asking price but don't mind taking a chance but needs to be cheaper.
Which, in my mind means it's not 'just the switch' as why would you not fix it.....?if only a switch, Needs to be ready to go at the asking price but don't mind taking a chance but needs to be cheaper.
Either way the guy sounds like a complete chancer.
As you say, if it becomes £5k cheaper, then there's an element of risk worth taking in case the engine is a turd.
Need to have a better look and listen,
Sorry, but if the highlight of the car is the 'Fastco Engine', and the seller is demanding top dollar, that light better be off and I want to see both cold and hot oil pressure being decent when running.
Regards the oil pressure gauge, there is a port at rear top wall of the engine next to the distributor, this is a 1/8NPT port, an 1/8BSP fitting will fit with enough PTFE tape, but don't go crazy. Any mechanical pressure gauge should work.
Having read about the engine being sat in a lockup and not a direct purchase... eh, I wouldn't be making it a highlight of the sale.
Has the guy done the break in procedure for the engine if it has such low miles on it?
Regards the oil pressure gauge, there is a port at rear top wall of the engine next to the distributor, this is a 1/8NPT port, an 1/8BSP fitting will fit with enough PTFE tape, but don't go crazy. Any mechanical pressure gauge should work.
Having read about the engine being sat in a lockup and not a direct purchase... eh, I wouldn't be making it a highlight of the sale.
Has the guy done the break in procedure for the engine if it has such low miles on it?
Camaro said:
Sorry, but if the highlight of the car is the 'Fastco Engine', and the seller is demanding top dollar, that light better be off and I want to see both cold and hot oil pressure being decent when running.
Regards the oil pressure gauge, there is a port at rear top wall of the engine next to the distributor, this is a 1/8NPT port, an 1/8BSP fitting will fit with enough PTFE tape, but don't go crazy. Any mechanical pressure gauge should work.
Having read about the engine being sat in a lockup and not a direct purchase... eh, I wouldn't be making it a highlight of the sale.
Has the guy done the break in procedure for the engine if it has such low miles on it?
Not sure what the seller has done with the engine before or after fitting it ,Regards the oil pressure gauge, there is a port at rear top wall of the engine next to the distributor, this is a 1/8NPT port, an 1/8BSP fitting will fit with enough PTFE tape, but don't go crazy. Any mechanical pressure gauge should work.
Having read about the engine being sat in a lockup and not a direct purchase... eh, I wouldn't be making it a highlight of the sale.
Has the guy done the break in procedure for the engine if it has such low miles on it?
He's not a stranger to these cars having owned one or two hot rods,
He had a mechanic who he regularly uses to fit the engine and other work on the car,
As you say need to look at the oil pressure gauge fitted to the car cold and hot and use a mechanical
gauge to be on the safe side if he's not happy with that maybe worth agreeing to buy the car subject to him fitting a new switch .
Thanks for your help.
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