Waxoyl any experience?
Discussion
The 'old school' MOT guy who did the truck (08 F150) last weekend said.....'that's a solid piece of kit but if it were mine I'd get some sealer on the underside, doesn't matter how good the top looks etc,'
Have been quoted £595 plus vat for this work from Rustmaster in Hatfield.
Am thinking of doing it but not sure if this stuff is snake oil or worth doing?
Opinions welcomed and apologies if old news on the forum.
Dave
Have been quoted £595 plus vat for this work from Rustmaster in Hatfield.
Am thinking of doing it but not sure if this stuff is snake oil or worth doing?
Opinions welcomed and apologies if old news on the forum.
Dave
Roo said:
Way too much money. You should be able to get the underside schultz'd for under £200.
Alternatively do it yourself. I did my Sierra 2500 with half a dozen aerosol cans by lying underneath it on my hack if all you want is to tidy it up.
I thought that sounded a lot, which is the reason I asked the knowledgeable forum.Alternatively do it yourself. I did my Sierra 2500 with half a dozen aerosol cans by lying underneath it on my hack if all you want is to tidy it up.
It looks as if it's no more complicated than jet washing, drying and spraying on. I've got a jet wash....just needs some cans of jollup!
Edit - the stuff made by Hammerite......??
I think I can handle a rattle can paint job on the bottom of a truck. £595 plus vat saved!
Edited by Metrosexual on Monday 16th December 08:02
there are loads of threads on classic car forums, but from my research:
- Dinitrol appears to have a better reputation these days than Waxoyl
- make sure you get off the salt and moisture before you apply, or you just seal a nice corrosive environment
- you really want to get the stuff injected/sprayed inside the cavities/chassis, as well as a top coat
- If using waxoyl definately thin it down and warm it up before application so it runns into the cracks etc
- best done in summer when its warm, as otherwise it goes hard the secondit touches freezing metal.
- it makes a complete mess of your drive!
Definately worth doing on any car that doesn't have good protection already.
- Dinitrol appears to have a better reputation these days than Waxoyl
- make sure you get off the salt and moisture before you apply, or you just seal a nice corrosive environment
- you really want to get the stuff injected/sprayed inside the cavities/chassis, as well as a top coat
- If using waxoyl definately thin it down and warm it up before application so it runns into the cracks etc
- best done in summer when its warm, as otherwise it goes hard the secondit touches freezing metal.
- it makes a complete mess of your drive!
Definately worth doing on any car that doesn't have good protection already.
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