JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE REAR BRAKES GETTING HOT
Discussion
I can't see how they could be linked.
The brake pedal pushed hydraulic fluid via the master cylinder to all four brakes to apply them - via slave cylinders in the rear drums, following which the springs on the rear drum brakes will pull the shoes clear of the drum.
Changing the front brakes can't have any effect on the rear brakes unless in compressing the brake pistons, you've pushed the fluid into overfill and that is somehow locking the brakes on but I can't see that happening myself.
Check the brake fluid level. If that is OK, I would suggest that the rear brake issue is a coincidence and check the handbrake cables if both are getting red hot (as opposed to hot which is normal). Unlikely to be the slave cylinders as if they fail, the rear brakes won't apply.
The only other thing I can think of is that most cars have a brake proportioning valve so the front brakes work harder than the rear and the car remains stable. I have no idea how these work but I suppose if that malfunctioned, it MIGHT somehow affect the rear brakes but I've not heard of such happening.
I should add that in winter weather, some handbrake cables, where the end rubber bellows have perished and disintegrated, allow water into the cable, it freezes and corrodes and the cable eventually won't release. This is a common problem on Mustangs where the cable points upwards so I'd start here and ensure that when the cable is released, the lever on the rear drums releases. You can sometimes get a release by spraying lubricating fluid into the cables but new cables are likely to be the only cure.
The brake pedal pushed hydraulic fluid via the master cylinder to all four brakes to apply them - via slave cylinders in the rear drums, following which the springs on the rear drum brakes will pull the shoes clear of the drum.
Changing the front brakes can't have any effect on the rear brakes unless in compressing the brake pistons, you've pushed the fluid into overfill and that is somehow locking the brakes on but I can't see that happening myself.
Check the brake fluid level. If that is OK, I would suggest that the rear brake issue is a coincidence and check the handbrake cables if both are getting red hot (as opposed to hot which is normal). Unlikely to be the slave cylinders as if they fail, the rear brakes won't apply.
The only other thing I can think of is that most cars have a brake proportioning valve so the front brakes work harder than the rear and the car remains stable. I have no idea how these work but I suppose if that malfunctioned, it MIGHT somehow affect the rear brakes but I've not heard of such happening.
I should add that in winter weather, some handbrake cables, where the end rubber bellows have perished and disintegrated, allow water into the cable, it freezes and corrodes and the cable eventually won't release. This is a common problem on Mustangs where the cable points upwards so I'd start here and ensure that when the cable is released, the lever on the rear drums releases. You can sometimes get a release by spraying lubricating fluid into the cables but new cables are likely to be the only cure.
Rear discs or drums?
I would check the free play of the brake pedal.
If there isn't enough, this can happen.
I would also look for a rust stain below the master cylinder on the brake booster because I have seen water intrusion cause a retainer clip rust and not allow the piston to fully retract and open up the ports.
I would check the free play of the brake pedal.
If there isn't enough, this can happen.
I would also look for a rust stain below the master cylinder on the brake booster because I have seen water intrusion cause a retainer clip rust and not allow the piston to fully retract and open up the ports.
Hi i have the same problem with mine it started to stick only in hot weather when in traffic now its started to do it when the weather is cold. the driver side front was the worst it would get red hot. i have since changed the caliper and that seems to have sorted that side out. i have also flushed the fluid cleaned all the slider pins and now my back brakes have started to bind at different times. i cant see any adjuster on the pedal i have looked at this as when the brakes get hot the pedal goes hard. this is a pain its been intermittent problem on mine for the last couple of years i would love to sort it.
floyd12345 said:
Hi i have the same problem with mine it started to stick only in hot weather when in traffic now its started to do it when the weather is cold. the driver side front was the worst it would get red hot. i have since changed the caliper and that seems to have sorted that side out. i have also flushed the fluid cleaned all the slider pins and now my back brakes have started to bind at different times. i cant see any adjuster on the pedal i have looked at this as when the brakes get hot the pedal goes hard. this is a pain its been intermittent problem on mine for the last couple of years i would love to sort it.
Your problem is slightly different, he probably forced back his pistons with the handbrake on
re adjusting the handbrake should have cured it.Yours is more likely to be brake hoses. (bits breaking off from the inside of the hose and jamming the pistons).
Hi,
Handbrake was not on when discs and pads were changed on the front, i have solved the sticking on problem but now have a grinding noise on the front passanger side when breaking, pistons are not sticking and only happens when breaking lightly but the noise is quite noisy, any ideas
Handbrake was not on when discs and pads were changed on the front, i have solved the sticking on problem but now have a grinding noise on the front passanger side when breaking, pistons are not sticking and only happens when breaking lightly but the noise is quite noisy, any ideas
Simple but not easy
Easier if you can see the nut with the wheels ON. (Depends on your wheels) As the nut has to be undone/tightened with the car on the floor 36mm socket through the centre of the wheel.
I'm assuming you don't have air or a gun.
But.....even though the disc is new I would target that as the problem.
Badly seated, hub not cleaned off well enough when installed.
Wheel off, spin disc....does it run true.
Look into the caliper it easy to see if it appears to move from pad to pad as it turns.
I hate to add this, but I'm going to, please don't be offended.
Sounds can be very misleading, check the other wheels.
Easier if you can see the nut with the wheels ON. (Depends on your wheels) As the nut has to be undone/tightened with the car on the floor 36mm socket through the centre of the wheel.
I'm assuming you don't have air or a gun.
But.....even though the disc is new I would target that as the problem.
Badly seated, hub not cleaned off well enough when installed.
Wheel off, spin disc....does it run true.
Look into the caliper it easy to see if it appears to move from pad to pad as it turns.
I hate to add this, but I'm going to, please don't be offended.
Sounds can be very misleading, check the other wheels.
Edited by jeff m2 on Thursday 16th February 16:00
Have checked both fronts, the caliper on the passenger side seems to be loser than the drivers side and the caliper is done up tight. The noise was there before i changed the discs and pads, I am changing the pads on the back of the car tomorrow or saturday could the braking system be un balanced?
The caliper should not be loose.
It should be fixed in its relationship to the disc.
You have to establish what exactly is loose.
If you cannot, I think it is best to get this into a brake/front end shop.
Brakes are not something left to chance, esp front.
English translation of front end shop is a repair shop that apart from doing regular repairs can also align front suspensions (as not all can)
It should be fixed in its relationship to the disc.
You have to establish what exactly is loose.
If you cannot, I think it is best to get this into a brake/front end shop.
Brakes are not something left to chance, esp front.
English translation of front end shop is a repair shop that apart from doing regular repairs can also align front suspensions (as not all can)
There is a helpful article on Chrysler rear disc brake maintenance in this month's American Car magazine (August 2015, p74, One-Brew Job) Changing those rear brake pads should only be a one-brew job. Should be ...
Includes special considerations for vehicles with phenolic / nylon caliper pistons fitted to some modern Chryslers
Includes special considerations for vehicles with phenolic / nylon caliper pistons fitted to some modern Chryslers
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