Discussion
newsatten said:
Haha
Got a clay shoot this weekend and next,
And a 600 at Hythe on the 29th, so I’ll give the Alpine a run out,
I did a 100 bird flurry clay shoot last weekend down on a farm in Wiltshire, first time since Christmas I've shot some clays.Got a clay shoot this weekend and next,
And a 600 at Hythe on the 29th, so I’ll give the Alpine a run out,
And funnily enough, I'm shooting 600 at Bisley on the 30th
Speaking of Trannies, this popped up in my news feed:
https://www.hemmings.com/stories/pontiac-ram-air-v...
https://www.hemmings.com/stories/pontiac-ram-air-v...
What is blatantly obvious is the 44 year old filler has caused zero rusting effects but the 54 year old original paint has rust blemished the entire shell!!
Good red lead and crap Acrylic paint!
Dent removal, grind off paint , drill hole ,
Screw a self tapper in and attach a pair of vise grips,
Pull, fill , paint simple!!
Or how to F—k a panel in easy lessons !!
newsatten said:
What is blatantly obvious is the 44 year old filler has caused zero rusting effects but the 54 year old original paint has rust blemished the entire shell!!
Good red lead and crap Acrylic paint!
Dent removal, grind off paint , drill hole ,
Screw a self tapper in and attach a pair of vise grips,
Pull, fill , paint simple!!
Or how to F—k a panel in easy lessons !!
Tried to track down my old T/Am but with no luck,
Called the Epping Motor Co who have been around a long time and specialise in classics and yanks only to be told
they have not bought my T/Am to my surprise however there is another Epping Motor Co who deal mainly in vans
and have a collection of yanks ,so via google got their number so thought i had cracked it only to be told they also haven't
bought the T/Am and redirected me back to the first Epping Car Co ,So neither one of them own the car according to them or for some reason
didn't want to tell me . Still keeping my eye on the classified but kind of given up on it for now,
Edited by ratrod 2 on Friday 14th June 08:07
Hopefully it turns up RR, if I spot it I'll post here sharpish.
Coming along nicely NaT, that old thing is solid as a rock.
I dread to think what you'd find if you stripped my Fireturd back like that. Mind you, it does polish up well, I gave it coat of Autoglym Ceramic Spray the other day. Like a mirror!
Coming along nicely NaT, that old thing is solid as a rock.
I dread to think what you'd find if you stripped my Fireturd back like that. Mind you, it does polish up well, I gave it coat of Autoglym Ceramic Spray the other day. Like a mirror!
LeighW said:
Hopefully it turns up RR, if I spot it I'll post here sharpish.
Coming along nicely NaT, that old thing is solid as a rock.
I dread to think what you'd find if you stripped my Fireturd back like that. Mind you, it does polish up well, I gave it coat of Autoglym Ceramic Spray the other day. Like a mirror!
Thanks Leigh much appreciated, Coming along nicely NaT, that old thing is solid as a rock.
I dread to think what you'd find if you stripped my Fireturd back like that. Mind you, it does polish up well, I gave it coat of Autoglym Ceramic Spray the other day. Like a mirror!
Firebird looking good , Black is such a pain in the ass to keep clean but well worth it after a good polish,
ratrod 2 said:
newsatten said:
What is blatantly obvious is the 44 year old filler has caused zero rusting effects but the 54 year old original paint has rust blemished the entire shell!!
Good red lead and crap Acrylic paint!
Dent removal, grind off paint , drill hole ,
Screw a self tapper in and attach a pair of vise grips,
Pull, fill , paint simple!!
Or how to F—k a panel in easy lessons !!
Tried to track down my old T/Am but with no luck,
Called the Epping Motor Co who have been around a long time and specialise in classics and yanks only to be told
they have have not bought my T/Am to my surprise however there is another Epping Motor Co who deal mainly in vans
and have a collection of yanks ,so via google got their number so by now thought i had cracked it only to be told they also hadn't
bought the T/Am and redirecting me back to the first Epping Car Co ,So neither one of them own the car according to them or for some reason
didn't want to tell me . Still keeping my eye on the classified but kind of given up on it for now,
Waiting no DVLA for my V5 is a pain, I should have a large pile of bits by now!
So just scratching the edges at this point,
The car needs to be completely complete, as I will need to roll it outside if it needs inspection as the agent for DVLA will need a minimum of one meter around the entire vehicle, so doors etc can be full opened blah blah!
I’ll continue with the drivers side paint removal but then stop so it’s obviously if inspected that the car is indeed white!!!
LeighW said:
Hopefully it turns up RR, if I spot it I'll post here sharpish.
Coming along nicely NaT, that old thing is solid as a rock.
I dread to think what you'd find if you stripped my Fireturd back like that. Mind you, it does polish up well, I gave it coat of Autoglym Ceramic Spray the other day. Like a mirror!
Looking good son !Coming along nicely NaT, that old thing is solid as a rock.
I dread to think what you'd find if you stripped my Fireturd back like that. Mind you, it does polish up well, I gave it coat of Autoglym Ceramic Spray the other day. Like a mirror!
RR’s correct Black can be a pain, but when glossy like this and on a straight body it’s hard to better!
Yeah the TA’s shell so far hasn’t thrown up any proper horrors !
I’m pretty sure the O/S door and quarter panel will also be filler free,
As it’s only had one repaint there virtually zero paint on the car, making removal far far easier!
Factor in virtually no filler mean getting ready for paint will be massively easier and quicker,
But there still a mountain of prep to do and a fair amount of fabrication and welding to the effected panels,
It’s looking likely I’ll try a save both front quarters
So they will need lower and upper metal replacing,
Both rear quarters have corrosion to the lower sections behind the arches,
Definitely one door will need a fillet in the bottom probably the other one two!
There’s some corrosion to the upper cowl/Bulkhead
But at this point the lower sections and A posts all look good?
Given I’m doing a monumental ruster that’s not been touched for over 40 years it’s all looking rather promising
But still plenty of time for that to change
One thing that annoying is the fact the GM Vin/Date sticker is still on the drivers door,
But when the numpties painted the car they painted straight over it !! Ffs.
Why wouldn’t you mask it off???
Mental and very shabby in my book, especially as it was done in Medway or Strood so could have been done by
Mechspray ?
These were very active around this time so it’s quite possible the owner had it done there ??
I’ve been trying to work out how i can remove the paint without F—king up the decal ??
If that’s even possible I dont know, but any suggestions??
But when the numpties painted the car they painted straight over it !! Ffs.
Why wouldn’t you mask it off???
Mental and very shabby in my book, especially as it was done in Medway or Strood so could have been done by
Mechspray ?
These were very active around this time so it’s quite possible the owner had it done there ??
I’ve been trying to work out how i can remove the paint without F—king up the decal ??
If that’s even possible I dont know, but any suggestions??
newsatten said:
I’ve been trying to work out how i can remove the paint without F—king up the decal ??
If that’s even possible I dont know, but any suggestions??
You might be able to get a licenced repro decal to apply to a paint stripped tag. If that’s even possible I dont know, but any suggestions??
A google has thrown up this possibility, although a few years ago, this company in the first post would be worth contacting.
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showth...
-Cappo- said:
newsatten said:
One thing that annoying is the fact the GM Vin/Date sticker is still on the drivers door,
Mechspray ?
Blimey, there's a blast from the past! Up Delce Road if I remember rightly? I used to dream of having a car painted by those guys!Mechspray ?
Yes definitely!
I’ve no real idea whether it was done there so it’s just a possibility,
Plenty of other body shops around at that time !
Obviously my TA is unusual in being stored away for many years,
But it does offer a glimpse into the past, and how methods have changed,
The filler thing I think illustrates very well this modern notion that filler causes corrosion due to water transfer is totally bogus!
One has to use epoxy on bare metal then do your filler work on top etc,
This concept is totally alien to me who was taught only ever put gob on bare clean metal!
I’ve been doing restoration for over 40 years
And always followed the same process,
Blast , weld clean and fill, block , sand and etch prime ,
Now epoxy is fabulous but it’s not the holy grail!!!
Just had a look on the Bay of Lies, first time for awhile,
Good job I didn’t buy the TA with a view of making a profit!!
Same old cars for sale just cheaper now, looking like the bubble has deflated!!
Not before time really, and it’s not just Yanks, pretty much everything is slipping down hill,
Lots of uncertainty currently going on, so easy to understand people being reluctant to splash out on a old motor,
Hopefully it’s just the normal up/down cycle??
Good job I didn’t buy the TA with a view of making a profit!!
Same old cars for sale just cheaper now, looking like the bubble has deflated!!
Not before time really, and it’s not just Yanks, pretty much everything is slipping down hill,
Lots of uncertainty currently going on, so easy to understand people being reluctant to splash out on a old motor,
Hopefully it’s just the normal up/down cycle??
Yes, but..........wouldn't it be fair to say that the 'classic car' market became (and still is) ridiculously 'overheated' with some absolutely crazy prices for 'nothing' cars........no doubt driven by some of the 'film star' cars like seen in Bullit, Dukes of Hazzard and latterly the John Wicks films.
We'll then see the even crazier prices reached at some of the American auctions and back here in Blighty for relatively 'ordinary' 'classic' Fords, Mini's and the like.
Guess it all gives more recent purchasers an issue when trying to coming anywhere close to 'realising' prices paid previously for some of these cars if subsequently trying to sell.
We'll then see the even crazier prices reached at some of the American auctions and back here in Blighty for relatively 'ordinary' 'classic' Fords, Mini's and the like.
Guess it all gives more recent purchasers an issue when trying to coming anywhere close to 'realising' prices paid previously for some of these cars if subsequently trying to sell.
Technical question for Newsatten (after seeing the surface rust on your Poncho body panels)
Relating to re-finishing of paintwork. Microblistering. This comes up frequently on the Uk Corvette forum. Worst case scenario will be with cars stored in the open and covered. Guys who have owned cars for a few years, perhaps always garaged have to leave the car outside, use a proprietary multi-layer cover, get some mixed wet, hot/cold weather, remove the cover and find microblisters, ruining perhaps an expensive paintjob applied after a resto job, months, even years after application.
I'm sure we all realise the reasons for it - so moisture trapped in the 'glass, subsequent filler and/or primers/undercoats etc.......with the moisture droplets expanding and ultimately bursting through the top surface of the paintwork......and it seeming isn't just limited to 'glass bodywork - seen also on steel bodies.
Is it as simply as the paint guys when 'washing-off' the bodywork between prep coats are simply not air drying it correctly or using heated booths? - should the bodywork be 'washed down' with an evaporating chemical instead?
Relating to re-finishing of paintwork. Microblistering. This comes up frequently on the Uk Corvette forum. Worst case scenario will be with cars stored in the open and covered. Guys who have owned cars for a few years, perhaps always garaged have to leave the car outside, use a proprietary multi-layer cover, get some mixed wet, hot/cold weather, remove the cover and find microblisters, ruining perhaps an expensive paintjob applied after a resto job, months, even years after application.
I'm sure we all realise the reasons for it - so moisture trapped in the 'glass, subsequent filler and/or primers/undercoats etc.......with the moisture droplets expanding and ultimately bursting through the top surface of the paintwork......and it seeming isn't just limited to 'glass bodywork - seen also on steel bodies.
Is it as simply as the paint guys when 'washing-off' the bodywork between prep coats are simply not air drying it correctly or using heated booths? - should the bodywork be 'washed down' with an evaporating chemical instead?
roscobbc said:
Technical question for Newsatten (after seeing the surface rust on your Poncho body panels)
Relating to re-finishing of paintwork. Microblistering. This comes up frequently on the Uk Corvette forum. Worst case scenario will be with cars stored in the open and covered. Guys who have owned cars for a few years, perhaps always garaged have to leave the car outside, use a proprietary multi-layer cover, get some mixed wet, hot/cold weather, remove the cover and find microblisters, ruining perhaps an expensive paintjob applied after a resto job, months, even years after application.
I'm sure we all realise the reasons for it - so moisture trapped in the 'glass, subsequent filler and/or primers/undercoats etc.......with the moisture droplets expanding and ultimately bursting through the top surface of the paintwork......and it seeming isn't just limited to 'glass bodywork - seen also on steel bodies.
Is it as simply as the paint guys when 'washing-off' the bodywork between prep coats are simply not air drying it correctly or using heated booths? - should the bodywork be 'washed down' with an evaporating chemical instead?
The rust marks on the TA are directly connected to old school acrylic and cellulose based primer,Relating to re-finishing of paintwork. Microblistering. This comes up frequently on the Uk Corvette forum. Worst case scenario will be with cars stored in the open and covered. Guys who have owned cars for a few years, perhaps always garaged have to leave the car outside, use a proprietary multi-layer cover, get some mixed wet, hot/cold weather, remove the cover and find microblisters, ruining perhaps an expensive paintjob applied after a resto job, months, even years after application.
I'm sure we all realise the reasons for it - so moisture trapped in the 'glass, subsequent filler and/or primers/undercoats etc.......with the moisture droplets expanding and ultimately bursting through the top surface of the paintwork......and it seeming isn't just limited to 'glass bodywork - seen also on steel bodies.
Is it as simply as the paint guys when 'washing-off' the bodywork between prep coats are simply not air drying it correctly or using heated booths? - should the bodywork be 'washed down' with an evaporating chemical instead?
Polyester based materials are also hydroscopic water transfer is always a concern,
Given the predicted life expectancy of an average American vehicle rust through was of no concern!
To be fair this has been lurking under my paint sine May 1970!
As far as Vettes go, that are made from Polyester and as such hydroscopic , this also mean they can suffer from osmosis which is a degradation of the structure,
Vets are far better made than most glass cars and formed by pressure, so less likely to suffer from the above!
To be honest most micro blisters are caused by rubbish compresses and rubbish water removal from the compressor air,
Thus happily sprayed on with the paint is the water !!!
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