Two quick questions - Eunos Mk1 1.6
Discussion
Just had the local garage take a look at the Eunos, with its stuttering/stalling problem and they've not found anything on it 
They've tried to tell me two things that I don't believe:
1. There is no diagnostic port on a Mk1 1.6i engine - which I understand is incorrect
2. I asked them to check and change the timing to 14 degrees as per some MX5oc threads, but the garage reckon they're not adjustable - "It's done from the ECU" - which sounds like either someone can't be arsed, or they don't know jack?
Can anyone advise?
They've tried to tell me two things that I don't believe:
1. There is no diagnostic port on a Mk1 1.6i engine - which I understand is incorrect
2. I asked them to check and change the timing to 14 degrees as per some MX5oc threads, but the garage reckon they're not adjustable - "It's done from the ECU" - which sounds like either someone can't be arsed, or they don't know jack?
Can anyone advise?
FELIX_5 said:
Can't help but wouldn't use that garage again!! Lol
Nope, they've royally fecked me off - I got there early for them to whizz over the diagnostics, and they've not bothered to phone back or get the car done quickly; I had to chase them up and they're still working on it...Not amused of Bristol.
The first part is true I think. They use blink codes to diagnose the faults. I think you wire up a LED to somewhere and depending oon how many times it blinks relates to the problem (I think). Can't help on the second point i'm affraid although I do think the garage is wrong (from reading forums on the modification)!
Neil - seriously - get onto miata.net and some of the other sites.
As above - Diagnostics is something you can do at home with a few pennies worth of resistor and an LED.
Its not a 'universal' type system like you get on more modern cars, not a plug it in to a PC type job.
As for the timing - again - they just dont know the car well enough.
It IS adjustable - what you adjust is the 'base' timing, and yes, then the ECU will then advance/retard it from there.
Again - this is easy to do at home, I'm not a mechanic yet I, or one of the other guys on here could, im sure, easily talk you through it or help you out if near enough.
As above - Diagnostics is something you can do at home with a few pennies worth of resistor and an LED.
Its not a 'universal' type system like you get on more modern cars, not a plug it in to a PC type job.
As for the timing - again - they just dont know the car well enough.
It IS adjustable - what you adjust is the 'base' timing, and yes, then the ECU will then advance/retard it from there.
Again - this is easy to do at home, I'm not a mechanic yet I, or one of the other guys on here could, im sure, easily talk you through it or help you out if near enough.
The Mk2 MR2 had no diagnostic port on the ECU but errors could be show by placing a paperclip in 2 fuses on the main fuse board. this then flashed the engine fault light on the dash (dot dot dash dash etc) which you could then work out the faults. (this could bare no relation to an MX5 
)
as said about mate, take it somewhere who knows about them
btw do they have a MAF? if so i'd say thats your first point of call, followed by the coil/coil packs.
)as said about mate, take it somewhere who knows about them
btw do they have a MAF? if so i'd say thats your first point of call, followed by the coil/coil packs.
Edited by _Batty_ on Friday 27th November 10:53
the diagnostics port (acessible via leds etc as mentioned) on a mk1 will only tell you what the sensors are currently doing as its only an obd1 port whereas the mk3's etc have obd3 diagnostic ports (so im told be steve a 5-speed where i asked a simlar question justt yesterday whilst having some work done on my car)
yes you can deff change the timing as mentioned above and is easi.y done with a timing light.
Personally if were you id nip onto somewhere like mx5 nutz see what they say and try to find '5' specialist colse by to where you live.
Matt
yes you can deff change the timing as mentioned above and is easi.y done with a timing light.
Personally if were you id nip onto somewhere like mx5 nutz see what they say and try to find '5' specialist colse by to where you live.
Matt
Having enjoyed doing the above/having some of these problems before:
Stalling (if it's when it's at idle) - try adjusting the air bypass screw, give it half a turn at a time anticlockwise, stop doing this when the idle speed goes above around 850-900 RPM on the tachometer. The screw faces you on the top left (as you look at it from the front bumper) of the throttle body, it may well be under a small plastic cover unless that's fallen off by now.
Timing - you need a strobe light, connected on No 1 cylinder (front one), and pointing down at the crank pulley. Then loosen the clamp bolt on the cam angle sensor (back left of the cam cover as you look at the engine, it's a round thing with some wires connected to it), and then carefully rotate to get the timing marks to 14 degrees.
Fault codes - as per above - you need a resistor and an LED (or alternatively, just get a 12V LED, from Maplins or similar), that gets poked into a pair of terminals on the diagnostic plug (on top of RH wheelarch as you look at it from front), then you short another pair to put it into diagnostic mode. Fault codes and the exact terminals should only be a short internet search away.
Best of luck! No guarantees on the stalling cause, but mine often needs a bit of a tweak on the air bypass as it gets colder. I used to think it was a sticking idle valve, but having had the throttle body to bits, that was really free, you should check for all teh otehr causes at the same time though (leaky vac hoses etc.)
Stalling (if it's when it's at idle) - try adjusting the air bypass screw, give it half a turn at a time anticlockwise, stop doing this when the idle speed goes above around 850-900 RPM on the tachometer. The screw faces you on the top left (as you look at it from the front bumper) of the throttle body, it may well be under a small plastic cover unless that's fallen off by now.
Timing - you need a strobe light, connected on No 1 cylinder (front one), and pointing down at the crank pulley. Then loosen the clamp bolt on the cam angle sensor (back left of the cam cover as you look at the engine, it's a round thing with some wires connected to it), and then carefully rotate to get the timing marks to 14 degrees.
Fault codes - as per above - you need a resistor and an LED (or alternatively, just get a 12V LED, from Maplins or similar), that gets poked into a pair of terminals on the diagnostic plug (on top of RH wheelarch as you look at it from front), then you short another pair to put it into diagnostic mode. Fault codes and the exact terminals should only be a short internet search away.
Best of luck! No guarantees on the stalling cause, but mine often needs a bit of a tweak on the air bypass as it gets colder. I used to think it was a sticking idle valve, but having had the throttle body to bits, that was really free, you should check for all teh otehr causes at the same time though (leaky vac hoses etc.)
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