Discussion
OK, so I'm looking for a very cheap (~£1k) MX-5. I would prefer one with an LSD, but how can one tell (without asking the seller) if it has one or not? Is there anything like - up to a certain year/certain special editions/jap imports/non jap imports etc etc...?
And briefly any other dos and don'ts of MX-5 buying would be appreciated*.
And briefly any other dos and don'ts of MX-5 buying would be appreciated*.
*other than don't buy an MX-5
Risotto in another similar thread said:
Which one you go for is a matter of personal choice really. All mine were Eunos Roadsters (the one sold to the Japanese market). The were all built on the same production lines and, aside from minor spec/trim differences, all markets around the world got the same car whether it was badged MX-5, Roadster, Miata, etc.
You've got a choice of two engine sizes, 1.6 & 1.8. They look very similar so check the VIN plate. 1.6 cars will begin NA6C, 1.8 cars begin with NA8C. Some UK 1.6 cars had as little as 90bhp but other (identical) cars from a different production year had a fair bit more. The Japanese cars were never fitted with the lower powered variant of the 1.6.
I haven't owned one for a while now but from memory the Japanese 1.8 models from 1995 onwards came with a Torsen LSD etc which UK cars never had. Earler Japanese cars had viscous diffs which tend to revert to opn diffs over time. There are other features like air con (which, while hardly essential, is handy for clearing the screen in winter).
Japanese shaken tests (like our MOTs) mean that general roadworthiness standards are often better than cars from the UK. Additionally, the bodywork is generally in better condition as the Japanese don't salt their roads. The average annual mileage seems lower in Japan too. While evidence of servicing rarely accompanies the cars on their journey over here, it doesn't mean they haven't been serviced. If the car's done over 100,000kms, check that there is a silver sticker at the front of the cam cover with a kilometre figure on it - this tells you when the cambelt was changed.
Common areas where problems can occur include:
Electric windows (prone to slowing or sticking)
Noisy tappets - for a few minutes after start up this is fine, if it continues, investigate further.
Dampness in the boot (often because the plastic rail that the base of the hood sits in has perished)
Hood damage - the area above the windows can develop cracks if the hood is old.
Air con - check that the revs rise when it's switched on and that the resulting air is nice and cold. Earlier cars were filled with R12 - not sure how easy this will be to re-fill now. Later cars had R134a which is still in use today.
Bodywork - check for rust around the wheel arches/sills. Check panel gaps and look for signs of respray work.
Usually the above are neither difficult nor expensive to rectify.
There were plenty of Japanese special editions to chose from - some, like the v-special had leather & wood if you like that sort of thing, others like the RS-Ltd had kevlar bucket seats and Bilstein suspension. The S-Special is a decent package that offers better suspension and a reasonable level of equipment.
I'm not trying to put you off UK cars, I just think that because of the excellent reliability of the MX-5, the main advantage of UK cars (service history) isn't as vital as it would be if we were talking about some handbuilt Italian V12.
Personally I'd get a post 1995 1.8 Eunos Roadster but whichever model you go for, you'll get a reliable, simple to maintain, fun, cheap, great handling car!
EDIT: You'll probably pay more insurance for an import but ringing around for quotes should reduce this to a negligible amount.
There's avery basic guide to the Japanese limeted editions here.
There's a similar thing for the UK special editions here
Link to original thread here.... http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...You've got a choice of two engine sizes, 1.6 & 1.8. They look very similar so check the VIN plate. 1.6 cars will begin NA6C, 1.8 cars begin with NA8C. Some UK 1.6 cars had as little as 90bhp but other (identical) cars from a different production year had a fair bit more. The Japanese cars were never fitted with the lower powered variant of the 1.6.
I haven't owned one for a while now but from memory the Japanese 1.8 models from 1995 onwards came with a Torsen LSD etc which UK cars never had. Earler Japanese cars had viscous diffs which tend to revert to opn diffs over time. There are other features like air con (which, while hardly essential, is handy for clearing the screen in winter).
Japanese shaken tests (like our MOTs) mean that general roadworthiness standards are often better than cars from the UK. Additionally, the bodywork is generally in better condition as the Japanese don't salt their roads. The average annual mileage seems lower in Japan too. While evidence of servicing rarely accompanies the cars on their journey over here, it doesn't mean they haven't been serviced. If the car's done over 100,000kms, check that there is a silver sticker at the front of the cam cover with a kilometre figure on it - this tells you when the cambelt was changed.
Common areas where problems can occur include:
Electric windows (prone to slowing or sticking)
Noisy tappets - for a few minutes after start up this is fine, if it continues, investigate further.
Dampness in the boot (often because the plastic rail that the base of the hood sits in has perished)
Hood damage - the area above the windows can develop cracks if the hood is old.
Air con - check that the revs rise when it's switched on and that the resulting air is nice and cold. Earlier cars were filled with R12 - not sure how easy this will be to re-fill now. Later cars had R134a which is still in use today.
Bodywork - check for rust around the wheel arches/sills. Check panel gaps and look for signs of respray work.
Usually the above are neither difficult nor expensive to rectify.
There were plenty of Japanese special editions to chose from - some, like the v-special had leather & wood if you like that sort of thing, others like the RS-Ltd had kevlar bucket seats and Bilstein suspension. The S-Special is a decent package that offers better suspension and a reasonable level of equipment.
I'm not trying to put you off UK cars, I just think that because of the excellent reliability of the MX-5, the main advantage of UK cars (service history) isn't as vital as it would be if we were talking about some handbuilt Italian V12.
Personally I'd get a post 1995 1.8 Eunos Roadster but whichever model you go for, you'll get a reliable, simple to maintain, fun, cheap, great handling car!
EDIT: You'll probably pay more insurance for an import but ringing around for quotes should reduce this to a negligible amount.
There's avery basic guide to the Japanese limeted editions here.
There's a similar thing for the UK special editions here
Edited by Risotto on Monday 4th May 20:40
Very useful to me before I bought mine, hope it helps you too!
P.S. They are as good as everyone says! :-)
P.P.S. Thankyou Risotto for your useful information!
Edited by j44esd on Wednesday 16th September 18:21
If you are planning to spend just £1000 on an MX5 (and there are plenty around at that price) my advice would be to buy on the condition of the bodywork. Rust in the sills and/or rear arches can end up costing you more than replacing an entire 1.6 engine.
Also, an engine that sounds rough or misfires can usually be fixed pretty cheaply so unless you suspect there is serious problems wigh the engine (excessive smoke for example) I wouldn't worry too much about it, just use it as a way to knock the price right down
Also, an engine that sounds rough or misfires can usually be fixed pretty cheaply so unless you suspect there is serious problems wigh the engine (excessive smoke for example) I wouldn't worry too much about it, just use it as a way to knock the price right down
Edited by MX-5 Lazza on Wednesday 16th September 22:03
OnlyMX5ives said:
For £1000 its a case of buying the best car you can.
No Mk1 UK cars had an LSD as std.
1.6 imports mostly had viscous LSD's but most have reverted to open diffs by now.
If you can find a 1.8 with a Torsen for £1000 you ought to start car dealing as I never have.
To be fair, my '92 Roadster has a viscous LCD that works just fine & I'm sure there will be plenty of imports of similar age around that will be in very good fettle bodywise.No Mk1 UK cars had an LSD as std.
1.6 imports mostly had viscous LSD's but most have reverted to open diffs by now.
If you can find a 1.8 with a Torsen for £1000 you ought to start car dealing as I never have.
Agree with what has been said - for £1000 the important things are not the nuances of the spec...
Just make sure -
- Its not the 90hp 1.6
- The sills are not rotten ('just a bit of bubbling nothing to worry about' actually means they are foooked inside)
- The Roof doesnt leak too much
- Engines runs reasonably well, clutch is ok, gearbox/diff is ok, dampers/springs are ok (no leaks or snapped springs)
And other than that theres not really a lot else that can't be fixed very very cheaply.
Just make sure -
- Its not the 90hp 1.6
- The sills are not rotten ('just a bit of bubbling nothing to worry about' actually means they are foooked inside)
- The Roof doesnt leak too much
- Engines runs reasonably well, clutch is ok, gearbox/diff is ok, dampers/springs are ok (no leaks or snapped springs)
And other than that theres not really a lot else that can't be fixed very very cheaply.
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