Oil leak

[goode262]

Hello,

Had my 5 a few months now.

Noticed a small oil stain where I park every night. Looked under the bonnet and can see signs of slow/dusty oil leakage around where the top of the engine bolts onto the bottom bit, I think that's where the gasket? lives.

Is a little slow leakage of oil normal for a 15 year old car, bit like when Grandpa can't stop pee-pee after he wants to, or is it a case of "Lie down Grandpa, we're calling an Ambulance!"

Thank you,
G

[MX-5 Lazza]

Leaks aren't unusual but are usually easy to fix. Sounds like yours is coming from a cracked cam-cover gasket. This is a 10 minute job to fix. The other common place to leak is the CAS O-ring which you might as well change at the same time as the cam cover gasket. Get the new bits from MX5 Parts and don't forget to put blobs of instant gasket in the corners when replacing the cam cover gasket.

[goode262]

Thanks v. much Lazza

Sounds like I might be able to do it myself then, I managed to install a new electical aerial myself.

So I loosen the eight bolts, lift the top part of the engine (where it says the DOHC MAZDA) put the new gasket on, put the sealant on and tighten up again. Do i leave the spark leads attached? and do I have to be careful no to overtighten the bolts? And where does the O-seal go?

Sorry, I seemed to have drawn you in to another reply.

Many Thanks

[goode262]

Can't find the CAS O-ring on MX5 parts.
Does it go by any other names?

[A2Z]

Here you go

http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/product_info.php/product...

[goode262]

Thanks very much peeps!

Ordered both parts, and will try and fit myself.

Could anyone give me a quick run through which order it should be done, and where exactly is the CAS O-ring located?

Thanks again.

[MX-5 Lazza]

Miata.net is great for this sort of thing.

Crank Angle Sensor Oil Seal
Another method of changing the CAS Seal

Also Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

[goode262]

Sheesh!!!

Thanks Lazza! Looks just a little bit scary, but I'm up for the challenge.

Seems like it will be easier to replace the CAS O-ring with the cam cover off as you will be able to see how to realign the CAS before putting the cam cover back on.

[MX-5 Lazza]

It's actually a very simple job. You could do the lot in 1/2 hour if you knew what you were doing or maybe an hour doing it for the first time. Be assured though that there is very little to do and nothing that's difficult as long as you think and follow instructions.

[snotrag]

G - buy a copy of Rod Graingers manual, you can get it on mx5parts or amazon. You sound like a willing if slightly nervous mechanic. With this book you will feel very confident. If haynes manuals have scarred you, forget them - this book is in a different league. Best £20 or so anyone will spend on their car in my opinion.

Trust me, it's worth it.

[skinny]

MX-5 Lazza said:

It's actually a very simple job. You could do the lot in 1/2 hour if you knew what you were doing or maybe an hour doing it for the first time. Be assured though that there is very little to do and nothing that's difficult as long as you think and follow instructions.

not with cleaning up all the old silicon and trying not to drop it in the cam cover

it is an easy job tho, and gives you a chance to see the state of your cams too. just don't torque up the cam cover bolts too tight, they aren't very strong.

[goode262]

Thanks Peeps,

Looking forward to wednesday now!

I've got the "Do it up" Haynes MX5 book by Paul Hardiman. It's good , but not much detail.

With regards to tightening the cover bolts, I don't have a torque wrench, is it ok just to judge/ medium tight with a standard ratchet?

G

[skinny]

yeah, i don't have a torque wrench either - do them up firstly just as tight as you can using a socket and extension (but no ratchet / handle etc) in the correct sequence (up the middle and then the outsides i believe - keep going round and round as when you do them, the other remaining ones get loose again as you compress the gasket) and then when they are all tight and the same, nip them up a quarter turn more or so with a handle on.

[goode262]

Well, job done! Semi-done...

I ended up just replacing the Cam cover gasket, as I couldn't get the bolts off the CAS. They are in such an awkward position and my socket set just wouldn't fit.
The old gasket was in pretty good shape, the previous owner had just had the cam belt replaced recently and perhaps they put a new gasket on. So perhaps all it needed was a good tighten down...

Good thing my neighbour had a torque wrench. In one of the how-to links above it said tighten to 43lb, good thing I double checked, my book says 8lb which feels just a bit firmer than fimrly hand tightened. 43lb would have been like bolting it to the earth's molten core!

Quite proud she fired up after open-heart surgery and no visible leaks.

Thanks to everyone who posted to help me and chat again soon.

G

[goode262]

Oh noes!!!!

The leak continues...

It's not coming from the cam cover but seems to be from a pipe which is down the bottom of the right hand side ( air filter side) of the engine. I managed to get under the car (just!) and unscrew the plastic flap and there seems to be a slow drip coming from one of the two pipes. They are quite far from the body of the engine, I didn't even know oil runs through this area. It smeels like engine oil, definitely not p-steering oil.

Any ideas on a fix?

Thanks again
G

[snotrag]

I know you said its not, but thats right where the PAS pipes are...?

It could well be engine oil though - you may find that its running along the bottom of something and the drip is quitr far away from the original source.

Have you tried looking when its hot and running?

Get your ramps etc ready - go for a drive for half an hour and get underneath as soon as you get back - you'll have to try trace it back.

Otherwise - the CAS O-ring is on this side. You may find its that (its common) and its running along and dripping off somewhere else.

your right - it is a bh to get to but it can be done. I seem to remember that to get mine off its easier to remove all the HT leads, and i think the 2 coil packs unclip from there metal bracket, and one of the sensores on the lhd near the fuel rail unclips - this allows you to get in with a ratchet spanner to undo it.

[goode262]

Had a good feel around the CAS and its driza bone, which is good. The gasket was leaking before I replaced it so it may have diluted the smell and sent me on the wrong track.

Managed to trace the leak to the bottom clip of the hose that comes off the Power steering reservoir. Checked the level and it's not even wetting the dipstick! Perhaps this is also the source of the knocking when the steering is on part lock!

The hose is in a really awkward place, and I can't figure out how the clip works? Do you just push the flanges together~:? And which fluid do I use in the Power steering reservoir.

It's a bit like solving a murder, without the need to kill anyone.